Brake light on, until I apply the brakes

ProblemChild said:

ashman said:

Replace the switch with a early Honda ...

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Blasphemer!

Actually I have seen folks do that, and those new switches do seem to break down in no time. I've already got a new one on the way to test but sneaking in a better made switch may be in my future. Thanks for the pic and suggestion.

Click to expand...

Keeping my Norton orginal went out the door in 1980 when I convered my 850 into a Wideline Featherbed and when a simple part keeps breaking, I replace with something better.

Ashley

o0norton0o said:

those switches suck. I have a box of broken ones because the rubber cracks and breaks releasing the plunger. It's a simple continuity switch, BUT sometimes if the stop screw isn't adjusted perfectly, or if the switch isn't centered perfectly on the bump that depresses it, then it actually makes contact (Lighting the stop lamp) when the brake lever is up and breaks contact when the break lever is down... It's just a cheap fininicky plunger type switch that needs careful alignment.

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Agreed. Didn't think about how the tab could be making contact. I'll take a closer look tonight. Didn't prevent an impromptu lunch break blast around the Marin Headlands, though.

ashman said:

ProblemChild said:

ashman said:

Replace the switch with a early Honda ...

Click to expand...

Blasphemer!

Actually I have seen folks do that, and those new switches do seem to break down in no time. I've already got a new one on the way to test but sneaking in a better made switch may be in my future. Thanks for the pic and suggestion.

Click to expand...

Keeping my Norton orginal went out the door in 1980 when I convered my 850 into a Wideline Featherbed and when a simple part keeps breaking, I replace with something better.

Ashley

Click to expand...

Absolutely. Just having some fun.

Ashman wrote:

"Keeping my Norton orginal went out the door in 1980 when I convered my 850 into a Wideline Featherbed and when a simple part keeps breaking, I replace with something better."

Agreed! I never replaced a piece of crap with another like piece of crap. When the Lucas brake switch crapped out on my Atlas after a few years, back in the late 60's, I replaced it with a Microswitch. I just now replaced that old Microswitch, not because it failed electrically, but because the actuating button wore down. It was still working, but by replacing it now, I can look forward to another 50 hassle free years.

Slick

Hi.
Another version of a brake switch mod.
The switch is a 'normally ON / push for OFF' brake switch (Tridon TBS037 or Nice BS71) to suit a GM Holden Commodore.
Ground the ugly tinplate off and tapped the original stop hole to suit - fitted cap now functions as the stop.
Ta.

needing said:

Hi.
Another version of a brake switch mod.
The switch is a 'normally ON / push for OFF' brake switch (Tridon TBS037 or Nice BS71) to suit a GM Holden Commodore.
Ground the ugly tinplate off and tapped the original stop hole to suit - fitted cap now functions as the stop.
Ta.

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Thanks. I believe after this next switch dies I will take everyone's advice and find something better.

Just got home and tested with a meter. The switch shows varying resistance when the plunger is pressed (brake pedal up), and open loop when when the brake is applied.

You could get a Venhill teflon lined cable with an inline switch



http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_Cables ... WITCH.html

gortnipper said:

You could get a Venhill teflon lined cable with an inline switch

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_Cables ... WITCH.html

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Nice. I believe we have a winner. Thanks for the suggestion.

Just to finish this thread up, new switch came in and brake light now works as it should. Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions for upgrading.