Boyer Installation Tips

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swooshdave

swooshdave

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Boyer Installation Tips


Already for the Boyer. Why Boyer you ask? Well, there's a new one sitting in a box. (new as in made in 2003 and never used)

Boyer Installation Tips


Is there anything I should do before installing? Would it help to reinforce or any other precautions to take? Obviously I've heard of the pickup wires breaking, so is there anything to do now to prevent them?
 
I stuff a rag under the point cover to help absorb the vibration on the wires and coil leads can break too. I also have the sparks plate with screw on terminal and Boyer ignition. I bought an extra plate from Sparks as a backup.
 
"Is there anything I should do before installing?"

Yep, toss it in a trash can and install a Trispark! :)

Sorry, couldn't resist but it's what I did and I've been very happy with that decision.
 
Make sure you use the right screw to mount the rotor. Find TDC, either one. Does the unit have instruction? They should be followed for counter-clockwise rotation. Make sure the inside taper is clean.
 
mike996 said:
"Is there anything I should do before installing?"

Yep, toss it in a trash can and install a Trispark! :)

Sorry, couldn't resist but it's what I did and I've been very happy with that decision.
Click to expand...

If it misbehaves then that will be an option. But the reality is that a Boyer is at least better than points. And as I said, it's "free".
 
The Boyer may be free, but getting the broken ankle treated won't be :wink:
 
IMHO Boyer is ok. I have had Sparx, Boyer and now Pazon. Tri-spark maybe the best but Pazon is very good. I have had 2 boxes go bad with the Sparx unit. Fred Eaton was vey kind to break up a set to sell me replacements even though I did not get it the original unit from him. Boyer is better than Sparx. Cushion the box well in some sort of foam. They all seem to be suseptable to vibration.
 
" But the reality is that a Boyer is at least better than points."

I don't agree at all. Points are better than the (analog) Boyer for everything related to engine performance/operation EXCEPT for the fact that you have to maintain the points/AAU. I took the Boyer off and went to points for that reason. I had decided that points were the way to go until the Trispark showed up. The Trispark does what the points/AAU does without needing any further maint (and it improves the idle).

I don't know anything about the digital Boyer's but looking at the data (curve, etc) the Trispark (or points) is still a better ignition system for the actual operation/performance of the engine.
 
debby said:
The Boyer may be free, but getting the broken ankle treated won't be :wink:
Click to expand...

I had a Boyer on my Interstate and it never gave a lick of trouble. Bad starting techniques lead to broken ankles.
 
What a load of crap. There ain't nothing wrong with a Boyer.
Broken ankles, broken leads, you can get that anywhere.
I've had mine on for Donkeys years, it is a first time starter & goes very well.
 
I have had an "old" boyer on my Commando for the past 17 years.

It starts first kick, idles like a rock, and has NEVER "kicked" back at me, and if it ever did I would simply and quickly retard the timing a tiny bit.

What is this kick back thing, if it does, your timing is either too advanced or you are putting a real feeble kick on it. Time to man up.
 
swooshdave said:
Is there anything I should do before installing? Would it help to reinforce or any other precautions to take? Obviously I've heard of the pickup wires breaking, so is there anything to do now to prevent them?
Click to expand...

The wiring problems with a Boyer are due to the fact that the engine hops around relative to the frame. People like to ziptie the leads at the frame as close to the engine as possible. The next hard anchor is the ziptie on the stator plate, so that's where it workhardens and breaks the strands in the wire. If you use two ties at the final tiedown at the frame it'll allow some movement. It involves using a tie on the wire that's slightly loose tied to the frame by a second tie on the frame that's tight. Don't leave out the Contact Breaker Lead Seal 061093, it dampens the push and pull on the wire. Lastly, take off the tie that Boyer uses on the plate and put a few wraps of tape where the tie goes and replace with a tie that's not so tight.
I have had no trouble in Boyer ignitions but there may be something to low RPM vibration and a relatively slow advance curve. I went from a MKIII to a Micro Power and noticed that the engine smoothed out and made power sooner with the Micro Power.
 
bpatton said:
swooshdave said:
Is there anything I should do before installing? Would it help to reinforce or any other precautions to take? Obviously I've heard of the pickup wires breaking, so is there anything to do now to prevent them?
Click to expand...

The wiring problems with a Boyer are due to the fact that the engine hops around relative to the frame. People like to ziptie the leads at the frame as close to the engine as possible. The next hard anchor is the ziptie on the stator plate, so that's where it workhardens and breaks the strands in the wire. If you use two ties at the final tiedown at the frame it'll allow some movement. It involves using a tie on the wire that's slightly loose tied to the frame by a second tie on the frame that's tight. Don't leave out the Contact Breaker Lead Seal 061093, it dampens the push and pull on the wire. Lastly, take off the tie that Boyer uses on the plate and put a few wraps of tape where the tie goes and replace with a tie that's not so tight.
I have had no trouble in Boyer ignitions but there may be something to low RPM vibration and a relatively slow advance curve. I went from a MKIII to a Micro Power and noticed that the engine smoothed out and made power sooner with the Micro Power.
Click to expand...

Good stuff there. Thanks!
 
Another small tip. Loop the wires, from the motor, slightly downwards, then up the frame.
2 reasons. 1, it allows the wires to flex & 2, any water will run to the bottom of the looped wire, rather than into the motor.
 
Flo said:
Another small tip. Loop the wires, from the motor, slightly downwards, then up the frame.
2 reasons. 1, it allows the wires to flex & 2, any water will run to the bottom of the looped wire, rather than into the motor.
Click to expand...

I will definitely do this.

I need to order the seal for the hole and then check to see if the engine is TDC. I don't actually have a way to turn the motor, so this may have to wait until I get the primary side installed.
 
You can put the nut on the crank alternator rotor threads, remove the plugs and turn the motor that way. I did that a bunch when I had my chaincase off last week.
 
MexicoMike said:
You can put the nut on the crank alternator rotor threads, remove the plugs and turn the motor that way. I did that a bunch when I had my chaincase off last week.
Click to expand...

If I had that nut...
 
bpatton said:
Don't leave out the Contact Breaker Lead Seal 061093, it dampens the push and pull on the wire.
Click to expand...

Would you use this seal or just a glob of silicone?
 
debby said:
The Boyer may be free, but getting the broken ankle treated won't be :wink:
Click to expand...

Never understood this Boyer kicks back thing mine never caused any increase in kickbacks I used Boyer for maybe 20 years got through 2 Black boxes but otherwise OK idle not great at under 1100 and the problem with below 9 volts but good maintenance of the battery charging system etc never left me stranded.
 
Well, I have never sealed the opening where the wires come out, never thought about it until now. I went through very heavy rain for 40 miles last year, didn't miss a beat. My hands were like blocks of ice, I & the wife were soaked through though.
Suppose it is a good idea though.
 
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