Bike won’t start on the Paddock stand? and even more weird stuff.

That's a good decision. I am not promoting the use of a cheater. I have made one to use for troubleshooting and I have a new part installed now. I was just pointing out that they can be a trouble spot and do go bad . When you take long trips on these bikes you begin to see things differently .
 
TonyA said:
That's a good decision. I am not promoting the use of a cheater. I have made one to use for troubleshooting and I have a new part installed now. I was just pointing out that they can be a trouble spot and do go bad . When you take long trips on these bikes you begin to see things differently .
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Agreed. I haven't buttoned everything up yet so I may take that switch apart and give it a look inside. Same switch is popular on several Yamahas and they have a troubleshooting guide that I found online.
http://www.yam-r125.net/checking_the_lean_angle_sensor-373.html
 
speirmoor said:
The more I think about it I want to keep the tilt sensor operational. Bike only has 700mi. I don't really know what happened on Saturday but it was running fine yesterday evening. Maybe unplugging everything such as the ECU and tilt sensor and rechecking all the fuses reset everything?. Another day in the saddle is needed.
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I wouldn't disable it. Its a useful safety device.
 
TonyA said:
You can make your own cheater . Get those resistors and solder them in the way I did. OR , you can order a cheater from Schintz Racing , but I can't vouch for the plug fit . It could be any one of those connections man ! Order a new tip over sensor like me and take your old one and convert it to fixed resistors like I did. Its clean and pretty simple . Then you will have a back up. Anyway you have helped me answer a lot of questions I had about the new bikes . Now we just need input from Euro 4 owners to complete this.
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Any chance we can get some Euro 4 feedback ? Does your tilt switch wiring match that of Speirmoor ? In other words do you have a tilt switch and a solid state tilt switch module like his Euro 3 New Omex 2017 bike ??
 
Hello There Euro 4 owners , All I am asking for is a picture of your tilt switches showing the color of the wires going into plugs . So one of the solid state assy and one of the actual tilt switch . Again , I need to see the plugs and the color of the wires going into them. The rest I can piece together myself.
 
Can Norton give us a Electrical Schematic that will cover all production years ? This would be great help.
 
2022 Update
This has reemerged out of the blue. I was on a long trip home and it started to bog down again. Couldn't really get the bike past 40 MPH. Engine would keep running but couldn't make power. Of course I had no tools with me so the Dominator Tail couldn't be removed. Its not even that easy with tools.
Anyway once stopped and bike running, with nothing to lose I gave the underside of the tail a thump and the engine got its life back. Rode terrific for 50Mi and it started acting up again. Another Thump and 40mi later I was home. Haven't gotten in there yet to see what's loose or WTF is going on but a good thump may get you home if you ever find yourself in my situation
 
speirmoor said:
2022 Update
This has reemerged out of the blue. I was on a long trip home and it started to bog down again. Couldn't really get the bike past 40 MPH. Engine would keep running but couldn't make power. Of course I had no tools with me so the Dominator Tail couldn't be removed. Its not even that easy with tools.
Anyway once stopped and bike running, with nothing to lose I gave the underside of the tail a thump and the engine got its life back. Rode terrific for 50Mi and it started acting up again. Another Thump and 40mi later I was home. Haven't gotten in there yet to see what's loose or WTF is going on but a good thump may get you home if you ever find yourself in my situation
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This should be part of a "Special roadside tuning techniques for Nortons" publication, on the shelf next to the service manual.
 
Ok so I found this floating around off its Velcro pad. Relocated and zip tied to something more secure. Issue now appears to be cured, fingers crossed.
 

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speirmoor said:
Ok so I found this floating around off its Velcro pad. Relocated and zip tied to something more secure. Issue now appears to be cured, fingers crossed.
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Sorry to change the subject, but your Domi frame is mig welded? I thought all Dominators were tig welded? Perhaps only the nakeds are?
 
Voodooo said:
Sorry to change the subject, but your Domi frame is mig welded? I thought all Dominators were tig welded? Perhaps only the nakeds are?
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Hi Voodoo , How can you tell ? Is it the shape of the weld bead ?
 
TonyA said:
Hi Voodoo , How can you tell ? Is it the shape of the weld bead ?
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The MiG welds in the pic are wide and plump, like a worm.


1658373183485.jpeg



I can do some decent mig welding.
1658372831550.jpeg



Nice tig welds are like a stack of coins laid down and evenly spaced.
It’s more of a art and takes two hands. You control the heat with your foot pedal. It takes both hands and a foot to tig weld.
One hand with the filler rod, one hand with the tig torch
My dad is real good, can literally weld two aluminum pop cans together.
(Not mine)
1658372898553.jpeg

1658372965158.jpeg
 

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Time Warp said:
They are all reinforcement so will look like that. (But look OK)
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Some of the Norton welds have already failed due to poor penetration.

My original question was…
I thought all Dominators were tig welded.
My Commando is MiG and my Dominator is Tig.

The picture posted by Speirmoor of his Domi are mig welded.
 
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