Coco said:
I"m going to revive this thread since my clutch troubles may lead to replacing the clutch to a lighter action model and since the primary is open, I might as well do the belt drive conversion.
Coco,
the only way to achieve a "lighter" clutch action is to use a softer diaphragm spring (not recommended). However, if you ensure minimal clutch cable friction and if you polish the clutch pushrod appropriately, the clutch should be easy on your left hand.
Coco said:
I have been told to get a Norvil belt drive by the fine folks at CNW. he has used many, including RGM and mentioned I should go Norvil.
Good advice, IMHO. The Norvil belts are of the HTD "Gates" type with round teeth - they run very smooth, but
must not be used in an oil bath. There is one kit of 30mm belt width available which allows for retaining the electric starter (sprag) mechanism, but I doubt that occasional greasing thereof will suffice to keep it alive in an otherwise dry primary chaincase. If you want to dispose of the e-start, you may go for one of the pre-Mk.III belt kits (also of 30mm belt width). Their 30mm crankshaft pulleys ensure that the alternat0r rotor doesn't unduly protrude outwards - which is the case with the 40mm belt kit, thus necessitating the removal of the ignition timing indicator segment plate (06-4694) from the inner side of the outer chain case. Is is also a good idea to discard the bronze-type clutch friction plates, and to order a set of "surflex" plates to replace them. And, yes, two additional plain steel plates should come in quite handy - one goes to the backplate of the clutch basket, and an additional one might be needed on the outer (spring) side to get the thinner "surflex" plates packed up tightly.
Coco said:
Any fitment horror stories I should know about? I have never done any work to my MkIII yet so this will basically devirginize me as it will be the first project I undertake.
You'll need a
sprocket extractor to take off the original crankshaft sprocket, the
clutch compressor tool, and the
clutch locking tool. You should also be prepared to find the original crankshaft pulley a tight (taper) fit, secured (against rotation) by a woodruff ("half-moon") key. Heating it up will make this job easier.
Before fitting the new alloy pulley, you'll have to clean the crankshaft taper appropriately of old Loctite residues (solvent, emery cloth). You'll also have to heat up the alloy pulley to approx. 150°C before you tap it home onto the crankshaft taper (w/woodruff key in situ and a little Loctite). The same goes for the fitting of the (sealed) clutch bearing - heat the clutch basket before you tap home the (generously greased) bearing.
Coco said:
I assume I have to rip everything apart to get a centre to centre measurement for belt size ect. There are also a lot of pulley size options for the Norvil kits so I don't really know where to begin. I don't race and will be using the bike as a daily driver. I would like a bit more pep if possible but stock is ok. An engine rebuild is in the picture next winter but no ultra perfromance upgrades. Maybe a flowed or ported head and a bit of a zippier cam, but that would be about it.
To measure the distance between crankshaft and gearbox mainshaft (centre to centre) you don't need to take the primary drive apart. Yes, there are plenty of pulley/clutch basket sizes available, since there's only a choice of two belt sizes (990mm and 920mm). The pulley/clutch basket combo you'll get might thus be not the same as that of the original primary transmission ratio, but you may recitify any such matters by selecting a smaller or larger mainshaft (final drive) sprocket.
Coco said:
Is something for a pro techinician or should I be able to do it over a weekend? As long as I have good instructions, I am confident I can do it. I do not however have a clutch tool. Suggestions?
Since this is a "first" for you, you'll be able to do it over a weekend - a "pro" could do it within 2 hours. All you'll need to have is the workshop manual(s), the apropriate tools (clutch tool and sprocket pullers are a
must!), the belt drive kit fitting instructions, and a little patience. Hope this is of help to you.