Belt drive alignment

LOL! Just tell others pointing at your lost plugs, "hobot made me do it ugly" but didn't mislead on the seeming too loose belt tensioning protection advice.

Here's past Peel's set loose to remove-replace by hand-probes w/o changing tranny position.


Here who I interrogated an hour to see if your trial-errors conclusions agreed and did.

hobot said:

LOL! Just tell others pointing at your lost plugs, "hobot made me do it ugly" but didn't mislead on the seeming too loose belt tensioning protection advice.

Click to expand...

Are you kidding, I'll just tell them you stole them! :mrgreen:

Hehe, that guip will add drama as I walk around at Catskill Mt rally chanting...
Locks ya Nortons, Locks ya Nortons, I's been knownssss to steal!

Grind out them unsightly threads at least as I'll never give em back.

PROGRESS!!!!!

Took pressure plae to work today, skimmed O/D to same size as the Norton one that fitted that I took out; still wouldn't fit as teeth fouling. Filed every outer tooth and managed to get it to go in the clutch basket. Started bike, front tyre against the wall again. select first, didn't stall. Yippee no clutch drag.

Then bike died, flat battery now on charge and have found loose altenator wire. MOT in 10 hours time

Went to Bristol Norton Owners club meet tonight for first time. Meet some good guys and they have a large group who are going to Manx in August. One guy has a Hailwood replica like mine. Will be there on Commando next week hopefully. My BMW1200GS didn't go down too well but needs must..

Yes compared might as well of drove up in a cage. Enjoy your efforts a long time ya hear.

Passed MOT and got there without a single breakdown on the four mile journey!

OIl leaking around head area on way back. Could be quickest head gasket blow ever? Retorque and see what happens

I am not giving in.
I am not giving in.
I am not giving in.
I am not giving in.
I am not giving in.

FastFred said:

Passed MOT and got there without a single breakdown on the four mile journey!

OIl leaking around head area on way back. Could be quickest head gasket blow ever? Retorque and see what happens

I am not giving in.
I am not giving in.
I am not giving in.
I am not giving in.
I am not giving in.

Click to expand...

Didn't you just do you oil feed lines to the head? Or is that someone else? Don't jump on the headgasket band wagon without thoroughly checking all fittings and oil lines. They alway leak down in a subtle way and show at the head joint. Many a head have mistakenly been pulled. They may or may not leak just sitting there idling but when the pressure builds going down the road is where you will see it. Usually right at the fitting or barb.

Al washers are sold for better sealing than the annealed copper kind, but I've sheared off a banjo trying to stiffle oil so now cheat with a dabble of Hylomar, which don't glue stuff together or hard to rub off. Alas some heads are pourous or even cracked. Some had to ether/carb-brake cleaner spray down, then run a short bit and dust with talcum power to reveal the invisible sheet of hot oil path.

Few 100 miles on Trixie Combat with copper head gasket smeared with Hylomar is sealed and surprisingly only the very center nut allowed any re-torquing.

One must never forget to keep in mind the fork oil can show up on engine and drip down.

Cheers guys. Thinks it's excess pressure. Will check head torques, clean off head barrel, reduce oil level to low on dipstick (it's high - my bad) and oil unions but it doesn't look like it's coming from their.

If I've blown headgasket it's my fault and will have to pay the price. Not big job to change.

Good points are

1. Mikuni goimg like a wetdream
2. I have front brake after RGM reline job I did
3. Bike looks dogs donuts

A bizarre side of me is starting to enjoy all the spannering..

:mrgreen:

Absolutely do not run a belt too tight or you risk severe failure mode involving snapped crankshaft or transmission mainshaft, both of which can result in residual catastrophic failure mode.

Fred,
explain the RGM reline please, I can buy the high friction RGM front sets here for much less than $100. How does the reline work and I assume one needs to arc the shoes? I did arc my originals, but it didn't do much and the rivets are close to the drum.

Explain 'Dogs Donuts', not an expression I have heard in the US, sounds like dogs nuts to me, I understand wetdreams.

Dave
69S

Hi DogT

Sorry the reline I did is the master cyl reline which changes the piston diameter. I'm too young for brake drums , not!

Well, belt seems fine but...


Cleaned oil off bike. Syringed out oil from oil tank to just above lower level. Retightened head and base gaskets, reset tappets. Went for run and found a few drops of oill dripping from left hand side. Thought the worst but let engine cool. Cleaned off with rag then went for another run. Oil now at back of engine below rear barrel. Let cool, cleaned off, went for third run, very little oil found. I still am not sure if it's leaking now or if it's just what came out after that first run that got in the nooks and crannies and always flows everywhere when hot. There doesn't seem to be any oil on the head and it seems to be from the barrel????

Just don't get it? Any ideas?

Cheers

Fred, do you have a one way valve installed in the breather line? This helps a lot to reduce and eliminate the small leaks because pressure is reduced?

A common way to track these head oil leaks is to sprinkle white baby powder all around the head and go for a ride.
You can then easily spot the leak source.

Are your rocker cover gaskets in good shape, no leaking oil there?

also not to forget.... the clutch push rod seal kit that's available..

that should help a bit as well.

http://atlanticgreen.com/rodseal1.htm


look to the middle of this page:

http://atlanticgreen.com/store.htm


JD

I'm fitting one way valve next few days 2up2down. I am sure it will help. Bought it from the frindly chappies at Norvil before they banned me for thm sendning me the wrong 50pence part... :shock:

Also wondering about tacho drive as it can run up the spiral coil thing then onto head but it doesn't look to be from there.

I think it maybe just oil residue but need a longer run.

Dave gave me one of his first seals for free, plus one of his rare crank end time wheel adapters, for a sense of how long involved with seasoned Nortoneers taking pity on my learning curves before I got to posting much here with blunt offensive conclusions.

Other tricks are to slather thick grease on clutch rod and to grind a waist in it or cut in half near the DS end and stick a ball bearing in the gap to let most oil drip off before reaching the clutch outlet. Also shouldn't forget that Type F Ford AFT is less bothersome to clutch plates leaking out the gearbox. I now use any kind of AFT in gearbox as so little leaks out it became a non issue on modifed Ms Peel but pure factory Trixie will suffer along with the rest of Norton world oil chain gang.

Another way to keep clutch plates dry I do not recommend learning like me is to keep high rpms going in lower gears, which will fast sling out ANY oil in the sleeve bushes on main shaft so NO oil in the pathway of leakage NOR any heat-wear-lube protection either. So my blunt conclusion is those with oiled clutch plates in dry belt drives have worn out sleeve bushes and/or spend too much time lugging in 4th. At high way speed there is no way for oil to get back in there as parts are above oil level and turning just slings oil splash right off, but at least there is no need of lube in bushes for hi speed top gear.

Cheers Hoby et al but there is confusion here. I have oil coming from barrel area not primary drive.

something else to look into....

A drive side oil seal from Manley... rubberized on the inner (crank) and outer side

look to the middle of the page:

http://www.stevemaney.com/products.html


JD