Anyone Running with NO Oil Filter?

aceaceca said:

I am not eccentric any more so do not need an oil filter, a 300 amp alternator, funny carbs, funny forks, verneer isos, belt drive, head steady, or various other devices that did not come on my bike.

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This is exactly why the British motorcycle industry fell apart during the seventies :!: :mrgreen:

Any way, back to the magnet on the dipstick. Lets remember that as mentioned earlier that that won't work for anything other than ferrous materials. Not much good for aluminum, bronze, bits of gasket and silicone, sludge, crayons and small owls.

PLEASE attach more pix about that magneto area mod: that's the coolest setup I've seen in a while!

thanks: karl

71basketcase said:

PLEASE attach more pix about that magneto area mod: that's the coolest setup I've seen in a while!

thanks: karl

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You mean in fact HOTTEST setup 8)

You mean in fact HOTTEST setup

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touche! 8)

71basketcase said:

You mean in fact HOTTEST setup

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touche! 8)

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That would be one of the things keeping me from doing that mod. The current location of the oil filter allows the air to cool it. Behind the barrels there would be less chance.

And the other, as mentioned, would be that it might get a little messy when changing.

But it looks cool, er, hot! :mrgreen:

+1 here too..What a great Idea!

I just looked on the Fram website, couldn't find anything on the filter spin on...Umm :?:

I think I'd still run the oil tank, but what a great place to locate the filter.

Take a look at this thread post41125.html?hilit=billet#p41125

This is the picture that goes with it


Big thanks to Rich (seaguy)

Jean

After I got my new N15cs in 1972 I ran with no oil filter for a few years. No problem. Then one day about 150 miles from home I got a sudden valve noise. I rode slowly into the next town and pulled the valve covers. I found that the stellite cap on one exhaust valve had come off and increased the valve lash by a large amount. I though no problem to make it home . I just run the adjuster down to make up the clearance. Sounded fine so I headed toward home. Within 50 miles the engine sounded like it was going to come apart so I got someone to pick me up in a truck. When I got home and tore the engine apart I found metal dust from the valve failure had run through everything and it was a mess. Ruined the crank and pistons and the lifters bores in the barrels along with the cam and pretty much everthing else that moved. The magnet had a bush growing from it. I have to think a filter would have saved a whole lot of parts.

If you want a simple filter setup just go to NAPA and get an add-on inline trans fluid filter. They look like an inline fuel filter but are designed for oil. They have a spring loaded bypass valve and a good sized element. They come in 5/16 or 3/8 hose sizes and are in a heavy finned black polycarbinate can. I have used them for years on my streetbike and racebikes. They can be hidden under the battery box. Just make sure they are in the oil return line and that they don't rub against something that might make a hole. Jim

Good idea Jim

Jean

If you swap out the standard battery for a 5 or 7Ahr Yuasa you can make room under the seat. You can use the standard mount and orient the thing so that it doesn't empty itself on our hand every time you change it.

So Bob, did you move the filter so you had room for a tie rod? Jim

So Bob, did you move the filter so you had room for a tie rod? Jim

comnoz said:

So Bob, did you move the filter so you had room for a tie rod? Jim

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There was that.. :wink: Aside from the inconvenience and the mess of changing the filter in the stock location though, I worried every time I changed it that some dirt got its way into the mount or filter. (I spent half my professional life in front of a laminar hood. The scars we carry).
The fact is, words fail me to describe how cool it is to simply reach in and swap out a filter with my bear hand, no strap thingie, no dirt, and no roll of oily paper towels, did I mention dirt?

Thanks for the link Jean



I wouldn't have thought having the filter located (travelerjerry's mod) there, would have a detrimental effects. Both the Guzzi's I recently owned and the Speed Triple have their filters out of the airflow. I suppose one could always make a copper sleeve with some fins attached and a bit of thermal paste, or gap pad. Hmm...There's a thought...


Steve

Gee Jim, that sounds like the answer to several problems (applications) I have, thanks for the tip. How long do you run them between changes (on the street) and what do they cost?

I don't remember what they cost. I bought a case of them when I was a reseller and have been working on the same box since. They were not real expensive though. In line with a good quality spin-on. I changed them like any other oil filter when I change the oil. One a year with sythetic oil. Jim

Sounds great, TVMI !

To prevent sand, mud and crud getting flung onto the oil filter mount , over the swingarm pivot and back of the gearbox, I took out the back wheel , cut out a strip of rubber from an old inner tube about 5 inches long, drilled the lower part of the guard about an inch above its end, pop rivetted the rubber flap so that the flap now covers the gap between the swingarm and end of the guard and just above the filter. It doesn't interfere with the tyre, is not visible and sure does keep that cramped assembly of parts pretty clean. (But I won't do the front guard, only Poms do that).

Mick

So Mick, whats a Pom.