another "getting the bike on the center stand" thread...(2020)

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Why I stopped drinking and driving...
During my misspent youth, I was at a party, been drinking and was going to crash on the floor. But this young lady insisted on being taken home. Ok then. Started the bike, put it in gear - didn't go anywhere. Fortunately one of my wiser friends took the key off me and I learned my lesson : centre stands can save your licence and maybe other things too:).
 
I removed my mainstand so can't attempt the manoeuvre, but I always start free standing.

Usually one kick, but this time it took three and that's only because the bloody camera was on ;)

 
I removed my mainstand so can't attempt the manoeuvre, but I always start free standing.

Usually one kick, but this time it took three and that's only because the bloody camera was on ;)


Dood, you’re kicking it like two-stroke, your orthopedic doc dreams of this stuff
 
I think there is a minimum height and weight of the rider to do this. I can barely touch the ground much less lift the bike.
My goofy method works pretty well on hard pavement. Otherwise it is side stand starting.
 
I would try kicking my commando over on the center stand
But I'd have to climb over the fence to find it!
I'd probably trip over loads of indicators , choke slides mirrors and air filter boxes etc:D
 
Better to set it on the center stands by standing along side of the bike by standing on the center stand peg and grabbing the frame. Pushing down and pulling up at the same time.
 
I have no trouble getting any of my bikes on the center stand while beside it. Not possible sitting on the bike - even though I'm 6'1" I have a 30" inseam and simply do not have legs long enough. I can barely reach to get the side stand all the way out on a Norton.
 
By far the mk3 centerstand is the easiest to operate. I know several people that changed the earlier to mk3 and everyone was quite pleased with the result. It has a better footrest.
George
 
What’s the issue??
Air cooled bike not being air cooled. The only related thing I think is worse is one running on the side stand. I don't let them run in the side stand at all and no more than a minute on the center stand.
 
Air cooled bike not being air cooled. The only related thing I think is worse is one running on the side stand. I don't let them run in the side stand at all and no more than a minute on the center stand.
So running on the centre-stand isn't the issue for you - it's protracted idling?
I agree - just don't see the issue with running on the centre-stand (like after oil change - waiting to observe return flow)
 
I had the same problem, I shortened the stand on my Mk3 here:
Problem solved.
Jaydee
 
So running on the centre-stand isn't the issue for you - it's protracted idling?
I agree - just don't see the issue with running on the centre-stand (like after oil change - waiting to observe return flow)
I believe the concern with CS running is the pounding of the stand pivot hole in engine plates, getting rounded out.
 
So running on the centre-stand isn't the issue for you - it's protracted idling?
I agree - just don't see the issue with running on the centre-stand (like after oil change - waiting to observe return flow)
Running on the center stand to check oil, time, sync carbs, etc. is pretty much a requirement. Starting it and letting it just sit there running on the center stand for no good reason is what don't like. They are air cooled bikes - yes, there's air around them while sitting but there's much more cooling while moving.
 
Running on the center stand to check oil, time, sync carbs, etc. is pretty much a requirement. Starting it and letting it just sit there running on the center stand for no good reason is what don't like. They are air cooled bikes - yes, there's air around them while sitting but there's much more cooling while moving.
One alternative is to use a paddock stand or wheel hold stand instead of CS or SS.
Running a floor fan pointed at engine can be done if heat is a concern.
On my modern air cooled Bonneville, there are a few maintenance procedures that call for idling from cold to 60 Cel oil temp (fuel map adaptations reset), typically takes around 15 minutes. Temp can be monitored on a smart phone linked to the OBD2 connector.
 
One alternative is to use a paddock stand or wheel hold stand instead of CS or SS.
Running a floor fan pointed at engine can be done if heat is a concern.
On my modern air cooled Bonneville, there are a few maintenance procedures that call for idling from cold to 60 Cel oil temp (fuel map adaptations reset), typically takes around 15 minutes. Temp can be monitored on a smart phone linked to the OBD2 connector.
...another reason why I don't like idling for long on the Norton heavy twin is the oil trickle onto the critical lifter/cam lobe interface.
It seems to me that under-lubrication could occur at idle - hence at long traffic lights I "blip" to raise revs and increase oil flow.
Could just be crazy old me though.
Then again - as long as it keeps me happy.

Sorry for the idling de-rail @Nortonbsa010 !;)
 
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What’s the issue??
As I stated, no issue per se, just these bikes can vibrate a bit more at idle before the isolastics kick in.
I prefer it to be sat on something compliant when running, i.e: the tyres, rather than having the stand pivot (and garage floor) taking a beating....
But again, that's just me :-)
Free choice for all.....
 
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