Amal Premier ( brand new) issue SOOTY and Cold!

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Or, don't buy a carb made and drilled by a Charlie who doesn't blow all the metal swarf out, but get one done by Dave who does! (With no offence to all the other Charlie's and Dave's out there , or maybe it was Shelia and Janet? )
 
This is NOT a new phenomenon, I brought a new pair of 32mm Amals way back in 1972 and could not get one cylinder to run right, there was a press release in the m/c press that Amal had screwed this up. I brought another new carb body, swapped everything over and problem solved.

A friend once worked at Britishspares in NZ. And they sold hundreds of Amal carbs.

And very occasionally they would get one returned that would not tune no matter what. So he ended up with a box of about 5 dud carbs.

When he sawed them in half most had porous metal around the idle and jet area.

These carb bodies could never be tuned correctly.
 
A friend once worked at Britishspares in NZ. And they sold hundreds of Amal carbs.
And very occasionally they would get one returned that would not tune no matter what. So he ended up with a box of about 5 dud carbs.
When he sawed them in half most had porous metal around the idle and jet area.
These carb bodies could never be tuned correctly.
Thanks for that imput. It seems that we now need to do and devise a non destructive system of blocking around the pilot and needle jet area and imersing carb in liquid to see if there any blowholes when being blown on by a low pressure airline.
 
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Or do something similar to the old standard Quadrajet carburetor fix - which was to epoxy (JB Weld, typically) all the casting plugs so they quit leaking! Never saw one that didn't leak internally from at least one of the 9 (as I recall) casting plugs. So maybe some JB Weld on Amal float bowls!

No, I don't really recommend that! ;)
 
Back in the Day when I was in business if I had a problem with a supplier sending faulty or wrong spec and not playing ball I would just not pay the montly account till they did. And I always finished up with a free delivery or some compensation. Its the only way some people learn. With the internet and sites like this we do have a bit more power now to rattle cages.
 
Either put on a Mikuni or deal with the vagarities of Amal carburetors. It's not that hard to tear them down out of the box and clean them up.
Oh! Shit can the #17 pilot screw and put in a "19.


Been there done that:
https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...nd-new-issue-sooty-and-cold.30877/post-485254
Yesterday at 10:54 AM


  • This is all making me very nervous about getting a pair of Premier's. Other than setting the float level, I would expect new carbs to be flawless. Why is that not the case?
    In my 932's I put in new floats, jets, needles, slides and madass synch adaptor. Lots of bugs to deal with. Needed the right insulating blocks for the manifolds, needed better sealing around the connections.
    I gained a lot of insight into the Amal configuration.
    It ran a lot better but still sub-par.
    I sent them out for a sleeve job as read and recommended on this forum.

    After the sleeve job it was like a different engine. Now it runs like a banshee and idles smoothly where I set it, 900 to 1K.

    Not saying new carbs were the wrong way to go, I was just determined (stubborn) I could get it right running the original pair...and I might still be working on them if not for all the info shared on this site.
  • ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    If you are the one spending hundreds of dollars for a brand new carb you have a more than reasonable expectation for proper and reliable performance. You should should not have to tear it down or have to return it because it was not properly prepared.
  • Of the companies i have controlled the mandate was to bend over backwards to offer up a quality product. And the rare times there was a problem we made it right...at our expense...not the client/customers.
 
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I fitted a set of 930 Premier carbs to a 1972 comando with a standard air box. I put in a 19 pilot as suggested here but it actually ran better with the original 17. I wonder if the change to the pilot jet is more appropriate to the 932 carbs.
I checked the float height and it was spot on. With the 17 jets they have run perfectly. So I am a happy customer.
 
I fitted a set of 930 Premier carbs to a 1972 comando with a standard air box. I put in a 19 pilot as suggested here but it actually ran better with the original 17. I wonder if the change to the pilot jet is more appropriate to the 932 carbs.
I checked the float height and it was spot on. With the 17 jets they have run perfectly. So I am a happy customer.

Interesting. I had to change to #19s in the 30mm carbs I fitted to a mere 650 Bonnie.
And I hear Trident owners often do the same with their even smaller carbs feeding even smaller cylinders...
 
Interesting. I had to change to #19s in the 30mm carbs I fitted to a mere 650 Bonnie.
And I hear Trident owners often do the same with their even smaller carbs feeding even smaller cylinders...
I bought a set of Premiers for my Trident. The left side would not respond to air mixture adjustment and would not run right. Always rich and smoky. Swapped to right side and problem moved. Pulled apart and cleaned. No difference. Returned to retailer and he replaced carb. Everything then perfect. He sent faulty carb back to Amal/Burlen. Got email back later saying they(Amal) tested carb and something was wrong but they did not know what? I would return carb to supplier and demand replacement. I would not tolerate anything less. Waste of time chasing your tail.
 
Interesting. I had to change to #19s in the 30mm carbs I fitted to a mere 650 Bonnie.
And I hear Trident owners often do the same with their even smaller carbs feeding even smaller cylinders...
I recently installed a new 930 Premiere carb on my '70 Triumph Tiger. It came with the #17 pilot screw. It wouldn't
start for shit. Kick, Kick, Kick, Kick. Sputter, sputter, sputter, sputter. It would eventually start. Not an easy
effort. Replaced the #17 pilot screw with a #19. Much better, but not ideal. Had to screw in the air screw
3/4 turn to get it to start. After started had to tone down the air screw as the rpm"s were too high.
So, today I removed the float bowl and traded the wonderful new stay up float's for an old plastic float from another
carburator. Bingo! Crack the throttle and one kick light up!
Granted this is not scientific, but rather just my experience. It illustrates how much float height can affect things.
 
Lazyeye, that’s very interesting... you’re one of a growing number who seem to report better running with the old style floats. I’ll will give it a try...

I know the stay up floats are supposed to be an upgrade, but personally, I don’t ever recall having an issue with a none floating float.
 
Hi Everybody,
(1) I have read your replies on the Amal Premiere problem and can summarize here: I swapped ignition left for right and the dry sooty weak performance remained on the right. Tried different plugs. The idle and overall performance was shitty, cold exhaust pipe. Engine is together mechanically.
(2) Put my old original Amal 932 on the right and BINGO have decent idle, quick warmup of exhaust , strong pulse out the tailpipe and no dry sooty plug. Bike runs decently.
(3) What can be said is that the right side Premiere was the problem within any conceivable normal adjustment .
(4) I see these possibilities in the Right Premiere: 1) Although the float was set to be .080" below bowl lip, this may be too high--although no fuel came out tickler unless depressed . 2) There may be swarf in the carb that I could not see and did not dislodge with solvent and air. 3) The "normal" air screw position for this particular carb might be 3 or 4 turns out. 4) This particular carb is defective.
Thanks to all.
Kara
Kara,
You obviously know your stuff.
My instinct is to trust yourself and go for option 4 - the carb is defective.
I had a similar issue with one new premier. They seem to have variability in the sealing of the brass plug that forms the bottom of the pilot chamber - the brass disc you can see when looking from the bowl side. They ’fixed’ mine by tapping the plug in with a copper hammer. After this it was better but not perfect.
I think it is time to send it back with details of how you have eliminated the other possibilities and proven that their carb is at fault.
 
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