Amal 932: gasoline comes out from ticklers!

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When I open the petrol cock after a while starts to get out copiously gaoline from the two ticklers.
What should I do since the floating and the needles are good?
Ciao.
Piero
 
pierodn said:
When I open the petrol cock after a while starts to get out copiously gaoline from the two ticklers.
What should I do since the floating and the needles are good?
Ciao.
Piero
Floats/needels are NOT good, check again.
 
Sounds like stuck floats. Often a sharp tap with a hammer etc will free them off. But they are probably stuck by gum / residue of some kind, so removing the float bowls and a thorough clean with solvent / carb cleaner would be best.
 
Remove bowls, clean and test with flat piece of metal on the bench. Easy to set float level this way too.

Amal 932: gasoline comes out from ticklers!


Amal 932: gasoline comes out from ticklers!
 
pierodn said:
When I open the petrol cock after a while starts to get out copiously gaoline from the two ticklers.
What should I do since the floating and the needles are good?
Ciao.
Piero

Do the ticklers return to full height after you release them? It is not always the float needle that is the problem.
 
Avgas, BP 110LL. If you don't want to be dangerous, use alcohol.
 
When the fuel starts leaking out at the ticklers,turn off the fuel.
Then start the engine,and run it until it runs out of fuel and stops.
When you turn on the fuel again,if there was any rubbish on the needles it will get washed off and they will seal.

If that doesn't work,then investigate inside the floatbowl.
 
Hi,

Interesting photo.

Am I right in thinking that the near carb float is even too low as the hight should be  080" (80thou) or approx. 2mm BELOW the back edge of the float bowl.
The far carb is way out.

Regards,
Sean
 
Player#3 said:
the hight should be  080" (80thou) or approx. 2mm BELOW the back edge of the float bowl.

However, Amal now recommend doing this by measuring the fuel level rather than setting float height.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/optimising-mark-1 ... uel-levels

Because there have been changes to the float chamber since the Concentric carburetter was introduced, and because there is no way of knowing what alterations may have been made by a previous owner, measuring the fuel level is the best way of setting up the float chamber..

The correct fuel level for all Mark 1 Concentric carburetters is 0.21" plus or minus 0.040" below the top edge of the float bowl. Thus when the needle valve is being held shut by the tangs of the float, the level of the fuel will be between 0.17" to 0.24" (4.33mm to 6.35mm) from the top of the bowl.


Player#3 said:
The far carb is way out.

The float bowl appears to be empty (only the 'near' bowl has a fuel line connected).
 
I tried the current factory settings and I couldn't even get the carbs to tickle, so I went back to my original settings, what ever they were, and it works fine now. It's even better now that I had the carbs sleeved. I get a good repeatable idle.
 
I cleaned the bowles, setted the floats (2 mm below) and ...... the right carb works now, not the left, the gasoline continue to exit out from the tickler !!!! (ticklers return to full height after i release it)?
You said the float was stucked! But what does it means? How do I verify that a float is stucked?
Thanks.
Piero
 
When setting the float, you must press on the tang of the float that presses down on the needle to maintain the pssition of the float on the axis pin. This show the true height of the float when closed.

If this is not done correctly, the flaot will be way too high and will surely not close and spill fuel out the tickler.

I do not have a photo of this and do not have a carb for which i can get a picture of this. Maybe a fellow could provide this picture.
 
Piero,

Are the floats the old white (but probably brown if old) hollow type? They can split along the joint line, if that happens the fuel gets inside the float and it loses buoyancy.
 
L.A.B. said:
Piero,

Are the floats the old white (but probably brown if old) hollow type? They can split along the joint line, if that happens the fuel gets inside the float and it loses buoyancy.

Hi Les,
The floats are white, not so bed!!!
I will change the float, i cannot think to do anithing else.
And let you know.
Ciao.
Piero
 
pierodn said:
The floats are white, not so bed!!!
I will change!!!

I suggest you examine the floats for splitting along the seam.

If you shake each one, you should be able to tell if there is fuel inside.

If they are dry inside then there's then no real need to change them.

Here's one that came out of my Commando when the same thing happened to me some years ago, I effected a temporary repair until I got a new float, by melting the plastic enough to seal the split after draining the fuel out. :)

Amal 932: gasoline comes out from ticklers!
 
About half way down this page shows how to adjust float.

http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html

Good idea to get the new floats if you have the old plastic ones, you can't adjust them anyhow, adjustment is made by moving the seat. New floats are adjusted by bending the tab on the float.

Use a magnifying glass to inspect needle seat, it may be damaged but most likely not if the problem went from one side to the other. New Viton tipped needles are a good idea too.
 
But, today, before to fit all new stuff (float, needle etc) i did the test with eight used floats and needles.
A very nightmare: gasoline came always out from ticklers.
Is possible all the old stuff was stucked?
I will try with new one but i beginning to fear that the problems are others who do not know.
Ciao.
Piero
 
pierodn said:
But, today, before to fit all new stuff (float, needle etc) i did the test with eight used floats and needles.
A very nightmare: gasoline came always out from ticklers.

What about the float bowl gaskets?
Check if any of the float bowl gaskets have been cut away in the area above the float pivot pin?

If the gasket has been cut as the one in the photo below has, then fuel will continue to get past the float needle.
The gasket should cover both ends of the pivot pin. The pin must be pressed down securely into the bowl slot if you do the test with the bowl disconnected from the carb body.
jaydee75 said:
 
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