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If the crankcase fills with oil there is only one cure - repair the oil pump!
advise are they worth having?
- Thread starter roberts1948
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" I am interested to hear your explanation of how gear oil get to your clutch plate. "
I have always wondered about this as well, never having had an issue with gear oil getting into the chain case. But obviously it happens. My gut reaction is that the gearbox must be over full for it to occur but it seems to be common enough that there must be some reason other than over-filling - I can't believe that everyone who has the problem over-fills their gearbox. I fill mine per the oem instructions - until it runs out the level-hole and let it drain until it stops. So I don't "under fill" it. I'm wondering what sort of oem machining or whatever could vary enough to have it happen on one tranny and not another but I have no idea.
As far as good clutch action, ATF works a lot better than engine oil. My bike had ATF from when I purchased it and the clutch was excellent. I recently put in all new Barnett friction/steel plates while installing an Alton Estart. It didn't need a clutch but I just figured, what the heck. For no real reason that I can think of, I decided to put oil in the case rather than the ATF. The new clutch's performance was not nearly as positive as the old one - same clutch thickness/adjustment. Changed back to ATF - great clutch is back.
I have always wondered about this as well, never having had an issue with gear oil getting into the chain case. But obviously it happens. My gut reaction is that the gearbox must be over full for it to occur but it seems to be common enough that there must be some reason other than over-filling - I can't believe that everyone who has the problem over-fills their gearbox. I fill mine per the oem instructions - until it runs out the level-hole and let it drain until it stops. So I don't "under fill" it. I'm wondering what sort of oem machining or whatever could vary enough to have it happen on one tranny and not another but I have no idea.
As far as good clutch action, ATF works a lot better than engine oil. My bike had ATF from when I purchased it and the clutch was excellent. I recently put in all new Barnett friction/steel plates while installing an Alton Estart. It didn't need a clutch but I just figured, what the heck. For no real reason that I can think of, I decided to put oil in the case rather than the ATF. The new clutch's performance was not nearly as positive as the old one - same clutch thickness/adjustment. Changed back to ATF - great clutch is back.
OK here is my explanation of how gear makes it way to the clutch.
as the gear set rotates in mesh it picks up oil on the layshaft gears. when the lay and mainshaft pair mesh the oil is forced out from between the teeth. with 1st pair having the small pinion right next to the mainshaft bearing some of the oil is forced through the bearing and floods the clutch release mechanism therefor allowing oil to accumulate in the bore for the pushrod where it makes its way to the clutch.
another way to HELP stop this is to use a 2rs bearing on the mainshaft and remove the inner seal so it will still receive oil.
I thought some of you geniuses would figure it out when I gave the hint of the geartrain in mesh
as the gear set rotates in mesh it picks up oil on the layshaft gears. when the lay and mainshaft pair mesh the oil is forced out from between the teeth. with 1st pair having the small pinion right next to the mainshaft bearing some of the oil is forced through the bearing and floods the clutch release mechanism therefor allowing oil to accumulate in the bore for the pushrod where it makes its way to the clutch.
another way to HELP stop this is to use a 2rs bearing on the mainshaft and remove the inner seal so it will still receive oil.
I thought some of you geniuses would figure it out when I gave the hint of the geartrain in mesh
mike996 said:
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"OK here is my explanation of how gear makes it way to the clutch."
But obviously it doesn't happen on all trannys. So again, what is the difference that causes some trannies to do it and others not? Is it some sort in internal tolerance variation or are all you folks with the problem really over-filling the tranny?
But obviously it doesn't happen on all trannys. So again, what is the difference that causes some trannies to do it and others not? Is it some sort in internal tolerance variation or are all you folks with the problem really over-filling the tranny?
mike996 said:"OK here is my explanation of how gear makes it way to the clutch."
But obviously it doesn't happen on all trannys. So again, what is the difference that causes some trannies to do it and others not? Is it some sort in internal tolerance variation or are all you folks with the problem really over-filling the tranny?
I found that laying the bike over on the sidestand for long periods tends to cause gear oil to migrate down the mainshaft. It doesn't take much. What ever splashes around in the actuator is tiny, but a eventually some minute quantity does creep in. Over say 12 months it eventually comes out at the clutch end. So what I do is to put a dob of hi temp thick axle grease on the end of the pushrod and put back in from the clutch end so the grease ball acts as coating on the pushrod that inhibits oil getting past. I also leave the bike up on the centre stand if its not going to be used for a long period. (some say that flattens on side of the Iso rubbers, but hell, in 8 years I haven't seen or felt any difference)
I am no expert on Nortons or any British bikes. I am restoring a Norton that fell into my possesion now. I do think from reading alot of threads and articals on tranny rebuilds, tolerances do vary from one bike to the next. I just rerplaced all bearings, seals and gaskets on my Norton transmission. Mine did not require the use of the kitchen oven or freezer to remove/install layshaft bearing. My new taper roller layshaft bearing was kind of a loose fit. I know some even used JB weld to secure, others requiered heat/freeze to install. Also Im sure people are lax on setting endplay. Maybe loose tolerances set up a kind of harmonic vibration that sucks the oil through the gear meshing more than others?
"Probably just a slip, but the layshaft upgrade is a roller (not tapered) roller bearing. As for the hole being a loose fit.. well, it will continue to loosen, at what rate I cannot predict. May take decades of light use.[/quote]"
Yes it was a slip....I hate posting on here...the engineer minds pick me apart. I am smart enough to build five custom show winning choppers. Baker trannies are completely differant.
Yes it was a slip....I hate posting on here...the engineer minds pick me apart. I am smart enough to build five custom show winning choppers. Baker trannies are completely differant.
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" I am smart enough to build five custom show winning choppers " :shock: Do they have internals in the engines . 
SORRY . just kidding . 
Right . :? The layshaft oil seal would mean you could maintain the CORRECT oil level . They all leak down a notch & hold , if trans filled correct .
Of corse if all the oil stays inside , you will then have to see that the outside doesnt start rusting . 8)
SORRY . just kidding . Right . :? The layshaft oil seal would mean you could maintain the CORRECT oil level . They all leak down a notch & hold , if trans filled correct .
Of corse if all the oil stays inside , you will then have to see that the outside doesnt start rusting . 8)
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