Advice for new Commando owner (2021)

First time Norton owner and first post. Glad to be here and glad the forum is here. I've restored a few 70s Hondas and a Kawasaki, and more recently a light restore of a BMW. My other bikes are a 2017 Triumph Thruxton 1200R and a BMW dual sport for camping out here in Colorado. The Norton has always been my dream bike and as an average mechanic I'm hoping that I can have better odds at not royally screwing up my new Norton.

I'm looking for a bit of advice as I get started..in short, the bike has been drained of gas and on display in a collection for the past 6 years with oil in it (actually not dripping due to some modifications). I'm trying to make sure I cover everything that should be done before firing it up. So far I'm thinking oil change, oil filter, air filter, gas, and some sea foam. Is there anything else you would check or do before starting it up?

Second, I'd love some expert eyes on the photos. Does anything look amiss? Any suggestions or insight that I should know about the current equipment and changes? I know very little about the upgrades and that will be one of the parts I need to learn as I go over the bike.

Here are the details.. I just picked up this beautiful 1973 Commando 850 from the LA area and I understand it previously lived in Austin and New Mexico USA (and now Colorado). The previous owner was reliable and had numerous Nortons (one of each year). He did a lot of good work with it so I'm mostly looking to make sure it's in tip top performance and then making some cosmetic changes..

Here's what I know.. it has shorter pushrods for performance. "The engine was over hauled. It has new super blend bearings, new hepolite pistons and rings, new cams, crankcase breather, oil pump, oil pressure relief valve, crankshaft balancing, cam push rods. It is like new but all the things that were potential issues have been replaced or upgraded. "

Here's the rest of the list:
Stock oil Tank redone by Colorado Norton Works
Colorado Norton Works Crankcase Breather modification
CNW crankcase tumble finish
New SRM oil pump
New SRM oil pressure relief valve
Professionally balanced crankshaft
Superblend main bearing upgrade
New big end bearings with STD rods
JS Motorsports Stage 1 Camshaft w/ bronze lifter inserts, radiuses BSA lifters and shorter pushrods for performance
New Hepolite pistons +.020", stock compression 8.5:1 and Hastings rings
New valve job with Rowe guides
New exhaust thread inserts by Phil Radford Fair Spares
CNW head steady
New MKIII isolastics front and rear
New Reynolds cam chain
New Old Brits oil gauge with SS braided oil lines
New Amal Premeire 932 anodized slide, adj float
Stock Airbox
New Primary chain
Stock engine sprocket and clutch
Out cover machined to accept MKIII gearshift and kickstart shaft seals
Stock 4 speed
Superblend bearing conversion
New Tri-Spark electronic ignition system
New Sparx 3 phase charging system alternator, rotor and regulator/rectifier

Thanks for any advice and information you can offer and I look forward to checking in as I update the bike.

Mike

Welcome (again?). Wasnt there a different thread on this yesterday? I could have sworn I made some comments there...but may be having flashback hallucination moments.

gortnipper said:

Welcome (again?). Wasnt there a different thread on this yesterday? I could have sworn I made some comments there...but may be having flashback hallucination moments.

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Thanks! Yes, I posted last night but I logged in today and don't see it.. maybe removed? Or I posted in the wrong place.. thanks for the comments and welcome, I'll try to find the other post.

I looked for my replies to it, but they disappeared, too. So, the thread must be gone?

I know @L.A.B. also replied and he is a mod, so maybe he can find it? or @Jerry Doe ?

gortnipper said:

I looked for my replies to it, but they disappeared, too. So, the thread must be gone?

I know @L.A.B. also replied and he is a mod, so maybe he can find it? or @Jerry Doe ?

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I'm sure I screwed something up. Hopefully it can be resurrected but either way thanks for replying. Hopefully it wasn't something about how it's likely to catch fire when I add gas and a spark.

I think the most important comment was actually LABs - make sure you reroute your rear brake cable to ABOVE the z-plates, not below as in your pics. Below is a dangerous position that can activate the brake unintentionally.

My other comment related to oil.

IMHO, the best oil to run is Royal Purple HPS 20W50, because of its excellent load bearing and very low heat from friction qualities. Read the linked thread below, much testing was done and valuable insight from one of the best in the Norton world.


Another, I think @Tornado suggested that a cheaper oil for the first 100 mi would be fine as a flush, and I agree. Has your engine been broken in yet? Different approaches might be valid if yes/no.

Change your primary and brake fluids as well.

You have a great and high spec bike. Not much to do. Ride it like you stole it.

The only thing I would do, and you wont know about until after you ride a while, is I would change out the standard foot rests for rear sets. But, that is me - I like that position as the stock one is too foot forward for me and I have long legs and ride somewhat aggressively mostly on windy country roads.

gortnipper said:

I think the most important comment was actually LABs - make sure you reroute your rear brake cable to ABOVE the z-plates, not below as in your pics. Below is a dangerous position that can activate the brake unintentionally.

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A huge thanks to you and @L.A.B. Great catch and I'll take care of that along with the brake fluid flush.

And a big thanks for summarizing the other comments so they weren't lost. I can't wait to do this maintenance and then fire it up for the first time. I'll get the gas and air dialed in for altitude as best as I can and then I absolutely intend to drive it like I stole it. It's been sitting idle for years which is great, but I intend to put a lot of miles on it while still keeping it looking good.

Then it's some lower mirrors and back to the original paint scheme. I may save the existing painted tank and side covers because they are so well done, but it's just not for me.

Oberon Streetfighter 75mm. Best barends I have used by a country mile. A bit fiddly to set up, but once set they stay set. Vibe free and clear.

gortnipper said:

Welcome (again?). Wasnt there a different thread on this yesterday? I could have sworn I made some comments there...but may be having flashback hallucination moments.

Click to expand...

Nortorious said:

Thanks! Yes, I posted last night but I logged in today and don't see it.. maybe removed? Or I posted in the wrong place.. thanks for the comments and welcome, I'll try to find the other post.

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I don't know why you didn't see your original thread because it wasn't removed but it appears you then found it after starting a new thread and deleted it.
Rather than attempt to merge all the posts into one thread, I've undeleted the original thread, changed the title to the same as this, market it "Duplicate", locked it and directed further replies to be posted here.

All the "new" parts/mods you mentioned, is that "new" as in recently or "new" 6 years ago? Does it have a some mileage on that rebuilt, modified engine or are you basically the beta-tester for the mods?

If it was ridden a good bit and was known to be running well before storage, then I would pretty much do as you mentioned - change the oil, filters, and put fresh gas in it. Check the carbs for deposits. I assume the PO drained the carbs before storage but if he didn't they will likely be a mess internally as far as blocked passages. Remove the plugs and kick the engine over - not hard like trying to start it, just moving it easily through the rotation. If that all seems smooth then put the plugs back in and fire it up! Drain/refill the forks as well before going out for the first ride. Do NOT assume there is oil in the forks!

The tires probably should be replaced due to age. Iso-rubbers may also need replacing for the same reason - especially because they have been in the same, non-flexing position for at least 6 years.

IF the bike was running well before storage, I wouldn't expect any issues and changing oil/new gas/clean carbs/new fork oil should be sufficient. OTOH, if it wasn't and you are essentially buying a just-rebuilt engine that has been in storage for 6 years...well, anything is possible.

If the engine has not run for 6 years, remove exhaust valve covers and poor some oil in to lube the camshaft.
If it starts, keep it at 2000 rpm for a while.
Don't let it idle.

Front brake mod? Whose is it?

Onder said:

Front brake mod? Whose is it?

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Norman Hyde (although HYDE appears to have been ground off). Hasn't been available from Hyde for several years.

MexicoMike said:

All the "new" parts/mods you mentioned, is that "new" as in recently or "new" 6 years ago? Does it have a some mileage on that rebuilt, modified engine or are you basically the beta-tester for the mods?

If it was ridden a good bit and was known to be running well before storage, then I would pretty much do as you mentioned - change the oil, filters, and put fresh gas in it. Check the carbs for deposits. I assume the PO drained the carbs before storage but if he didn't they will likely be a mess internally as far as blocked passages. Remove the plugs and kick the engine over - not hard like trying to start it, just moving it easily through the rotation. If that all seems smooth then put the plugs back in and fire it up! Drain/refill the forks as well before going out for the first ride. Do NOT assume there is oil in the forks!

The tires probably should be replaced due to age. Iso-rubbers may also need replacing for the same reason - especially because they have been in the same, non-flexing position for at least 6 years.

IF the bike was running well before storage, I wouldn't expect any issues and changing oil/new gas/clean carbs/new fork oil should be sufficient. OTOH, if it wasn't and you are essentially buying a just-rebuilt engine that has been in storage for 6 years...well, anything is possible.

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Thanks for the great suggestions and advice. I had assumed the bike was broken in but I'm going to review the shop paperwork from the modifications and engine build to compare mileage. I guess we will see if I'm a test pilot or not.

PO seemed to be pretty smart so hoping to not find a mess in the carbs, but we'll see when I open them up.

Are the ioslastics much work to change? I had the concern about replacing those along with the tires. I figured since it's been on display the tires are likely to need a replacement. The listing had the isolastics listed as "new," but again I'm guessing that was new 6 years ago which isn't saying much.

L.A.B. said:

Norman Hyde (although HYDE appears to have been ground off). Hasn't been available from Hyde for several years.

1972 Norton 750 Commando Café

Very period correct Norton Commando café bike. Bike has Dunstall fairing, seat cowl, and gas tank. Bike has a Norman Hyde Front brake kit with an AP Lockheed Racing Caliper and Megura master cylinder with a 12" rotor. Triumph Trident oil cooler installed and located inside fairing. Dunstall...

morriesplacecycle.com

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Thanks for solving that mystery. Brakes are one of the items on my list to update. What do you think are the best performing sets for both the disc, pistons, master cylinder, etc? I have my eye on the CNW Brembo brakes but would love to hear what others are worth considering.

Nortorious said:

Are the ioslastics much work to change?

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Front, no, as the mount can be removed without much work.
Rear, nowhere near as easy.

I have the CNW Brembo Master cylinder with the Lucas "adapter" plate so you can run the OEM switchgear. That MC, a set of Ferodo pads and a SS brake line with the stock Lockheed caliper will result in a brake that feels/stops as well as a modern front brake. The limit in braking will become the traction available from the front tire.

Try the brakes, you may be surprised. Check in your receipts to see if your master cylinder has been changed/resleeved at all - the stock bore is too large and these brakes benefit from a 13mm or 1/2" bore.

I would think 6 yo ISOs would be fine. Ride it and see how the handling feels.

One thing I didnt see on your list that is worth doing is a Kegler mod - http://www.nortonclub.com/docs/swingarm.pdf

gortnipper said:

I think the most important comment was actually LABs - make sure you reroute your rear brake cable to ABOVE the z-plates, not below as in your pics. Below is a dangerous position that can activate the brake unintentionally.

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Hey @L.A.B. and @gortnipper , did I get this right? I rerouted the brake cable and wanted to make sure I didn't get it wrong. As always, thanks for all the help. The bike is coming together amazingly well with all the help from you guys and this forum.