No no no ,no! You should check each cylinder individually, to not do so smacks of laziness.Another useful suggestion. I have been timing on the RHS wire because it is easier.
No no no ,no! You should check each cylinder individually, to not do so smacks of laziness.Another useful suggestion. I have been timing on the RHS wire because it is easier.
I am inclined to agree with you, in that the problem resides in carburetion.Pretty sure more than 2 carbs off perfectly running bikes have been tried on problem side with same results .... doubt he changed out cables during his carb testing
I too await the sparklers...and rest assured the cables, sync, all adjustments were carried out with meticulous attention.I am inclined to agree with you, in that the problem resides in carburetion.
Wasted spark ignition rules out mismatched timing.
There is still the possibility of weak spark due to a ground fault. The spark tester should clear up that possibility.
We should wait for the report of the spark tester before speculating further.
Only thing left is carburetion, despite a switch out x2. I can remember at least one other member of this Forum claiming a carb switchout did not change anything, but ultimately it was carb related.
Slick
Running single coil dual HT leads, tested out fine, replaced with new identical, tested, makes no difference. No diff is ignition key is jumped either. No kill switch in system. Coil earth direct to battery. Spark with plugs out against head impressive spark.A few suggestions Onder,
If you are running standard style coils check the link wire between them. ( if you still have the Lucar blade connectors I would swap them for hoop style, but that's an aside).
Reverse the wiring to the coils and see if the cool running changes side.
Run run two wires straight from the battery to the Pazon to eliminate the ignition and kill switches, and earthing issues.
Swap silencers.
Cheers,
cliffa
Frankly, the symptoms don't indicate an ignition system issue. If the bike runs properly at higher RPM/load, then the Ign system is fine. Ignition systems can work properly at low speed/no load but NOT work under load but the opposite is ...well, I suppose it's stupid to say that anything is 'impossible'...so I'll say, 'extremely unlikely.'
The symptoms point to fueling related issues - carb settings/defects, vac leak, etc. Try the engine running/turn petcock off test I mentioned in post #26.
The reason I mentioned swapping the silencers is I wonder if you may have an issue with the left one not allowing exhaust gasses to escape properly. That would probably give the appearance of a rich mixture in the combustion chamber. Pehaps a baffle is out of place for example?Since it clearly is getting fuel and it is clearly rich Ill try lowering the float. New amals seem to set the float higher than the old ones I notice.
Or, someone accidentally pushed a potato up ones mufferThe reason I mentioned swapping the silencers is I wonder if you may have an issue with the left one not allowing exhaust gasses to escape properly. That would probably give the appearance of a rich mixture in the combustion chamber. Pehaps a baffle is out of place for example?
Since it clearly is getting fuel and it is clearly rich Ill try lowering the float. New amals seem to set the float higher than the old ones I notice.
I didn't want to mention that, but unfortunately it happens.Or, someone accidentally pushed a potato up ones muffer