a disc from another bike that fits ??

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Smooth only works well on unstable insecure dangerous corner cripples, brakes or cornering in fairly wide open freeway like paths, pashaw. So its the fastest best way around in Model T's to GP's but cycles and cars can take a lot more G forces if only applied for instants in most jerky throttle brake and snatch downs/pop ups style - nothing so far but a tri-linked iso flexor cant tolerate, to point Peel would allow a locked front tire for many bike lengths, which you never see stunt riders or racers do, but for one brave fella going 100 mph adding front brake while throttling hard to lift front out of much traction effect, pashaw. Someday will find out if Peel can out stop ABS brakes in 0-100-0 tests. The few bikes I've stoppied always lifted my ass by the seat raising from under, ugh, but Peel would lift my ass up to throw me over bars if I didn't let off in time, try as I might only thing that would allow more slowing G's was if I was strapped down in seat or had deep knee cut outs in tank to wedge against. Trixie's poked out factory Lockheed restriction brake has as much braking power as Peels 4 way upgraded brake, to point I hate 100 size tire as too small a patch to take much heat as 110. Trixie just takes more lever squeeze without the RGM lever and smaller m/c bore, which is a definite safety factor on my too routine panic uses on unstable unlinked Commando. My tool of choice ain't modern at all so know what the rest are missing out on.
 
When you talk about dirt bikes and those with extreme power such as MotoGP bikes, they are both in the same realm of 'slide and drive'. With a commando you have a bike on skinny tyres which depends on nimble handling to get advantage. Most do not have top end motors, so the bike which tightens it's lines in corners is at an advantage. The game is substantially different. I suggest that is why the Yanks never did any good in Europe until the ex-dirt riders such as Kenny Roberts using the very high powered bikes came along. Until then our whole mentality was to never slide a bike in corners. If you watch the slow motion videos of MotoGP bikes in corners, you will note that they are always sliding sideways. When it comes to road racing using modern bikes, the kid that has come up through MX would usually have an advantage over someone like myself who came up using the old style nimble handling race bikes - until it rains !
 
Alan Ms Peel is so much more capable hooking hi power sharpening turns she can flip into straight steering which hi side all the others. Watch close to elites flicking instants of straight steer in a panic or letting bike do it on its own while they are being dragged alone side to climb back on - sometimes. Drifting and slides IS NOT straight steering just extremes of counter steering phase 2 handling gone soft and lazy widening the turn and loosing time out of effective accelerating traction, pashaw. Sorry for what the rest of the world is missing out on as I can't even get my SV650 or track Nina to the energy levels it takes to change phases, like ice to water and water to steam, such an big difference. Ms Peel has taught me more about two tire physics than best designers out there, which NONE mention the effect of dual plane hinge in stem and front axle on mystery of which rake and trail work best and why. I pay attention to what you describe and think you may be one the best pilots to ride likes of Peel into new phases of energy handling. I absolutely do not slide or drift Peel when in a hurry but very short intervals, about same as you see a bike skip out and hi side. I'm not that experienced nor confident with only a few seasons on Peel before over rev event a decade ago, but didn't need to be as Peel tri-links made even novice able to do things no one else can w/o crashing or loose time in turns.
I've had to stop and kick my SV650 race tire 3x's this year got so unstable, like the salt racers swishing about barely in traction I thot was going flat, nope, just how stupid loose THE Gravel tests me on sane timid commutes to pavement salvation. You can not use brakes to slow going fast on THE Gravel, nor going so fast into turns pavement becomes as loose as THE Gravel. Peel goes so fast and powerful all her control inputs suddenly reverse what they are labled as, throttle up slows in mid turns or trips into low side lean to enter turns, throttle off spikes acceleration with tire hook up and frame unwrap, brakes don't slow at all but change lean angle and lean, forks jerk opposite counter steer sharpening radius harshly. Its takes healthy athletes to handle elite cycles, not Peel that got easier and easier the harsher she went to point only effort was forcing blood up for vision tunneling G's and grip throttle enough to work it and not have Peel run TF out form under me. The low angles Peel could hook up forced my body and bike mass straight in line with suspension action into the rear patch so only had to hug bike close to be one with it not thrown out of saddle for way less need of the sideways compliance elites worry with while counter steering.
 
disc and calipers with adapter plate mods
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/support ... provements


A disc brake modification using Suzuki and Yamaha parts - full instructions

I had some interest in the brake modification I did to my Mk.lll 850, so here's a quick overview of what I did. The conversion worked out quite well; taking the following steps:-

(1) Mount the disc rotor to Norton hub with adaptor plate
(2) Mount the caliper to the fork leg with adaptor plate
(3) Assemble caliper and rotor and shim to centralise
(4) Mount master cylinder; fabricate SS lines

I wish I could say that I had CAD drawings of the adaptors that I could email to you, but that is not the case. I designed them in the best traditions of cafe racers everywhere; by hand drafting the key dimensions on paper, and then developing the finished shapes on cardboard templates.

(1) The 1989 Suzuki GSXR 1100 disk has a centre hole that is a little larger i.d. than the spigot on the Norton hub, and the bolt holes are on a larger circle than the Norton disc, so the first thing you need to do is to machine an adaptor plate that sandwiches the disk rotor to the hub. This plate is made from ½" 6061 T6 alloy, machined so that the spigot is the thickness of the disk rotor hub, with the remainder left for the clamping surface for the plate. The spigot in the plate is raised in its centre in order to centralise the disk on the hub ,and locate it. The o.d. of the whole thing is the diameter of the depressed center of the rotor. Once the sandwich plate is machined; mark out, drill, and then countersink holes in the plate to match up with the original holes in the Norton hub. Lastly, drill holes in the hub of the Suzuki brake disk rotor to line up with the Norton hub. Assemble the sandwich plate and disc to the Norton hub with 5/16" UNF flat head Allen screws, torqueing them evenly.

(2) The 1986 GSXR 4-piston caliper is light, works well, and is easy to find. A similar version was also used on the Gamma 550. There is lots of choice in pads; I used ones with Kevlar linings. I mounted my GSXR 1100 caliper on an alloy plate made from 3/8" 6061 T6 sheet. The plate bolts to the outside surface on both the caliper's mounting lugs, and the two lugs on the Norton fork lugs. I considered making the plate extend downward to pick up one of the smaller lugs. Originally, the shape of the plate is designed so that it hugs the outline of the caliper, and overlaps the lugs on the forks to the greatest extent possible.

(3) Assemble the disk onto the hub if you haven't already, and install the completed wheel into the forks. If you're using the late GSXR disk, you will likely find that the grommets will lightly foul the fork slider. Fix this by installing a small distance piece on the axle between the fork leg and the bearing in the hub. Bolt the caliper plate solidly to the fork leg, and align the center line of the caliper on the rotor. Make up distance pieces to suit the required amount to space the caliper on the plate. When you're finished deburring smoothing and polishing, ensure everything is tight, and be sure to use at least Grade 5 bolts and nuts.

(4) I used a Yamaha XV550 master cylinder with a 13mm bore. It mounted very nicely inboard of the standard Norton switch gear, and looks 'right'. You may choose to retain the Lockheed master, but lever travel may be limited, and the hydraulic brake light switch is marginal at best. What ever you do, spend the money on braided stainless/teflon lines.

The final thing I did on my bike was to fabricate a right side mirror mount, since using the Yamaha master cylinder means the loss of the stock mounting boss. I machined a suitable 'L' shaped mirror mounting from a block of 1" x 1" x 2" 6061 T6 alloy, which bolts to the upper two screw holes for the original master cylinder mounting in the twist grip, and juts forward to pick up the mirror stalk, which threads (10mm x 1.0) into the alloy.

Greg Kricorissian (grkricor@ccs.carleton.ca) on NOC-L 16th. Sep 1997
Click to expand...
 
Steve, the main problem with 'slide and drive' is the natural tendency to steer in the wrong direction if you have a moment. Michael Doohan realised that if the slide got out of control it was better not to try to steer into the direction of the slide, but into the opposite direction so that the bike slides gracefully to the ground rather than have the rear tyre pick up and cause a hi-side. On a loose surface you don't usually have that problem. Also it doesn't ever seem to occur with any bike as low-powered as a commando on bitumen surfaces.

A while back on this forum, I asked if anyone had ever hi-sided a commando. Seems the only time it happens is if you break the transmission. With my own bike, even though it noticeably tightens it's line and I'm using methanol, it never seems to get anywhere near the hi-side, and I've tried to get there a few times while practising, just to see how the Seeley behaves in the worst case scenario.
 
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