961 Sport: exhaust mount HELP

Hooligan67 · Mar 18, 2022

I purchased my ‘14 albeit without an exhaust mounting bracket located on the underside of the frame: obviously sheared off at some point in its history..
Can someone please send me some pics and/or dimensions of this bracket?
I’ve located a shop willing to weld a replacement bracket in place - but I have no idea what it looks like or size etc.
Help much appreciated!
H67

BLIGHTYBRIT/SF · Mar 18, 2022

Your one of many that had broken de cat pipes , mines broke a few times , once under warranty , so got another one , then again 3 years ago but this time more than break in pipe as you can see , it’s a bit too rigid under the engine , so I used a longer bolt with 2 nuts on with bit of sideways movement, done 10,000 miles since that repair , here on some before & after pics

TonyA · Mar 18, 2022

Hooligan67 said:
I purchased my ‘14 albeit without an exhaust mounting bracket located on the underside of the frame: obviously sheared off at some point in its history..
Can someone please send me some pics and/or dimensions of this bracket?
I’ve located a shop willing to weld a replacement bracket in place - but I have no idea what it looks like or size etc.
Help much appreciated!
H67

If I understand what you are saying : You no longer have the frame mount , it has sheared or cut off of the frame ? ? This steel tube is about 2 in . long and has an ID ~ 5/8 to 3/4 " . Are there any signs on the frame where it used to be welded ? If you look at Richard's pictures above you can see about where it was located . This will then allow you to use an isolating rubber on the mounting bolt , and this is a 8mm dia bolt. And as Richard said the bolt should not be torqued tightly but kept loose and jam nutted. I have just measured mine and the steel tube mount is ~ 1.5 in. long and it ends ~ 1.5 in from the R/H side lower frame tube. So, it is biased off center L to R so the X-pipe hanger meets it on its left side. Don't forget the steel sleeve inside the rubber buffer tube , Norton call it a compression limiter . Just as Richard's pictures show. Thanks for the pictures Richard (your the best) !

Hooligan67 · Mar 18, 2022

TonyA said:
If I understand what you are saying : You no longer have the frame mount , it has sheared or cut off of the frame ? ? This steel tube is about 2 in . long and has an ID ~ 5/8 to 3/4 " . Are there any signs on the frame where it used to be welded ? If you look at Richard's pictures above you can see about where it was located . This will then allow you to use an isolating rubber on the mounting bolt , and this is a 8mm dia bolt. And as Richard said the bolt should not be torqued tightly but kept loose and jam nutted. I have just measured mine and the steel tube mount is ~ 1.5 in. long and it ends ~ 1.5 in from the R/H side lower frame tube. So, it is biased off center L to R so the X-pipe hanger meets it on its left side. Don't forget the steel sleeve inside the rubber buffer tube , Norton call it a compression limiter . Just as Richard's pictures show. Thanks for the pictures Richard (your the best) !

Thanks. Here are a couple of pics of where my bracket used to be. It’s causing the chain to rub against the newly installed decat pipes and factory aftermarket mufflers…
(Having trouble loading pics from Dropbox). However I appreciate the details and pics & will let you know how I get on!

Hooligan67 · Mar 18, 2022

TonyA said:
If I understand what you are saying : You no longer have the frame mount , it has sheared or cut off of the frame ? ? This steel tube is about 2 in . long and has an ID ~ 5/8 to 3/4 " . Are there any signs on the frame where it used to be welded ? If you look at Richard's pictures above you can see about where it was located . This will then allow you to use an isolating rubber on the mounting bolt , and this is a 8mm dia bolt. And as Richard said the bolt should not be torqued tightly but kept loose and jam nutted. I have just measured mine and the steel tube mount is ~ 1.5 in. long and it ends ~ 1.5 in from the R/H side lower frame tube. So, it is biased off center L to R so the X-pipe hanger meets it on its left side. Don't forget the steel sleeve inside the rubber buffer tube , Norton call it a compression limiter . Just as Richard's pictures show. Thanks for the pictures Richard (your the best) !

Thanks. Here are a couple of pics of where my bracket used to be. It’s causing the chain to rub against the newly installed decat pipes and factory aftermarket mufflers…

Stephen_Spencer · Mar 28, 2022

Mine fractured in my first year of ownership I think, 2017/18. The mechanic and I had a good look at security and rigidity without the mounting point and decided to leave it off. All good since. A legitimate option methinks, to be judged on an Individual bike basis. Influenced I guess by how good the roads are where you usually ride.

TonyA · Mar 28, 2022

Hooligan67 said:
Thanks. Here are a couple of pics of where my bracket used to be. It’s causing the chain to rub against the newly installed decat pipes and factory aftermarket mufflers…

The x-pipe mount bolt is 10mm not 8mm like I wrote earlier . I had another look today.

TonyA · Mar 30, 2022

Forum member Asad has a Zard 2 into 1 system :

I finally have 6000 miles on my 961

To my mind, heated gloves sound like they’d be more effective, but I’ve never tried any.[/QUOTE] Nigel , I’ve got a pair of RST thermotech heated gloves,with the built in rechargeable batteries,on low last 5hrs,medium 3.5 hrs,high 1.5hrs,if you needed them on the high setting then you shouldn’t...

www.accessnorton.com

Stephen_Spencer · Apr 7, 2022

Thought I’d hijack this thread for another exhaust question if I may good sirs.

But first, in the interest of full disclosure and despite my ardent advocacy for long pipes, I have purchased a set of shorts from a forum member. Turncoat, judas I hear you say!! Guilty as charged M’lud!

I fitted them yesterday and am yet to ride. The bike started no problem as always, initially revving slightly higher than normal (1800 rpm) but immediately settling to 1400 rpm and then dropping to tickover at 1200 rpm, as it would do normally - tickover stable. The open pipe map is already fitted from when my longs were opened up. They sound very similar if a little louder and throatier which I like - tick! I have to admit that they look more purposeful, especially on the Cafe Racer - tick! They look more even when viewed from the rear as opposed to my longs which looked a bit like a pissed preying mantis - tick! The jury is out though, until I ride it and try and get used to the new look.

My question is a bit of a newby one I’m afraid. The exhaust clamped up easily enough and is sufficiently secure without being over-tight. I am however getting exhaust gasses emitting from each of the clamping slots on both cans. I didn’t notice whether clamping slots on mid-pipe and end-can were aligned. The shorts also don’t mount as far on to the mid-pipes as the longs did, as can be seen by the witness marks. Is this minor exhaust gas leakage normal for exhausts configured with mounting slots on both male and female exhaust junction ends?

cliffa · Apr 8, 2022

It normally means that the the downpipe is not far enough inside the silencer for the slots to be fully closed and gasses will pass under the clamp. If you cannot get them on any further your only choice is to loosen the clamps, move them off the joint and apply some exhaust sealing paste or a dab of silicone into the slots, then re tighten the clamps.

TonyA · Apr 8, 2022

Stephen_Spencer said:
Thought I’d hijack this thread for another exhaust question if I may good sirs.

But first, in the interest of full disclosure and despite my ardent advocacy for long pipes, I have purchased a set of shorts from a forum member. Turncoat, judas I hear you say!! Guilty as charged M’lud!

I fitted them yesterday and am yet to ride. The bike started no problem as always, initially revving slightly higher than normal (1800 rpm) but immediately settling to 1400 rpm and then dropping to tickover at 1200 rpm, as it would do normally - tickover stable. The open pipe map is already fitted from when my longs were opened up. They sound very similar if a little louder and throatier which I like - tick! I have to admit that they look more purposeful, especially on the Cafe Racer - tick! They look more even when viewed from the rear as opposed to my longs which looked a bit like a pissed preying mantis - tick! The jury is out though, until I ride it and try and get used to the new look.

My question is a bit of a newby one I’m afraid. The exhaust clamped up easily enough and is sufficiently secure without being over-tight. I am however getting exhaust gasses emitting from each of the clamping slots on both cans. I didn’t notice whether clamping slots on mid-pipe and end-can were aligned. The shorts also don’t mount as far on to the mid-pipes as the longs did, as can be seen by the witness marks. Is this minor exhaust gas leakage normal for exhausts configured with mounting slots on both male and female exhaust junction ends?

View attachment 86360

Yes , What Cliffa said. I use high temp RTV to seal the joints. Just rub some on the ID of the muffler before assembly.

Stephen_Spencer · Apr 8, 2022

Thanks guys, I thought that was the case. I’ve got to remove them again to have some repairs made and the ‘not for road use‘ plates removed; I will reassemble with RTV.

Local traffic police can be a tad ‘thorough’ shall we say! My riding buddy got $400 and 4 demerit points a few weeks ago for having no rear and side reflectors fitted. $800 plus points being issued for not putting feet down fully at a stop sign. Having a physical plate fitted that says ‘I am illegal’ is probably not very smart

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