850 MK3 Finally coming back together........
- Thread starter JOHNO23
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Thanks L.A.B. Yes I did mean the dyna duel coil, only because I have heard they were better. I did have a long chat today with Norman White, who said he had never had problems with the original Lucas 6 volt coils.........
I think I will upgrade the alternator too.......
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Oooh........such as?
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These guys make some cool stuff. But most aftermarket mc parts that are not made.for old Brtit bikes will be -/e
https://motogadget.com/en/
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So what would the advice on here be? Go to neg/earth or stay where we are? I would think the only thing that I would want to possibly add, is the ability to run a sat nav on the bike. Would I have to convert to neg/earth to allow me to do this?................I have to say, pos/earth does do my head in for some reason.Probably because I’m not great with electrics anyway..........
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Regarding painting the cycle parts, the company below at Bingley powder coats almost exclusively motorcycle and car parts, and does do good quality work, so aren't as cheap as industrial companies. They are aware of where and how to mask parts appropriately. The one exception with the Norton Commando that I would instruct them on is the engine and gearbox cradle, where all of the bolt areas and where the swinging arm mounts is best left not powder coated as it will "give" in the case of the bolts and this can lead to loose mountings, and with the swinging arm surface areas, the powder coat is too thick to fit the arm/bushes onto the cradle and would have to be removed.
http://www.triple-s.co.uk/
I have gone back to two pack paint mainly due to the tendency for powder coat to eventually go a bit dull and for ease of touching up, but the down side is that paint does scratch / mark a lot easier.
I personally have never had water creeping under the powder coat and rusting the frame that I am aware of.
http://www.triple-s.co.uk/
I have gone back to two pack paint mainly due to the tendency for powder coat to eventually go a bit dull and for ease of touching up, but the down side is that paint does scratch / mark a lot easier.
I personally have never had water creeping under the powder coat and rusting the frame that I am aware of.
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I would just buy a +/e off the shelf harness in your case.
You can run leads to the sat nav directly off the battery, as long as either the unit or its power supply converts 12v to DC (which most do). Just be sure to run the device's ground to the negative terminal on the battery, and have a separate fuse for the device on the lead to the positive terminal.
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Made good progress removing the engine, gearbox,and cradle. The harness was terrible so has been totally binned.
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and keep the positive terminal separate from frame/ other earthed components!!
Great pictures. I also use a sharpie to sketch assembly notes on ziploc bags holding each assembly. I’ve used paint and powder coating for frames and have come around to painting, mostly because I can touch up myself. I would like to score an old oven for the shop for heating cases and heads etc. and if so might try powder coating smaller parts. Best of luck with the project. Even in disassembly it is a great looking bike.
Lineslinger
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What GP said...find the right guy and the worries disappear.
My entire parts collection from my ground up project was vapor blasted and powder coated in one continuous sequence. We sat down together and went through the pictures locating all the paint free surfaces that were to be taped or greased before painting.
There's a reason the US military approved CARC coatings almost 10 years ago.
My entire parts collection from my ground up project was vapor blasted and powder coated in one continuous sequence. We sat down together and went through the pictures locating all the paint free surfaces that were to be taped or greased before painting.
There's a reason the US military approved CARC coatings almost 10 years ago.
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This project is about to get going again
. The frame and wheels are done and ready.I’m just waiting for the engine to come back from Norman White. He concluded the engine hasn’t done many miles as bores and crank are original size.He said bores are slightly scored with some water marks,which he hopes will hone out.He would then fit std new pistons,if not he’ll rebore to next size.The cam............well, I’ll let you decide what you think of it,he’s sent me a pic!!
. The frame and wheels are done and ready.I’m just waiting for the engine to come back from Norman White. He concluded the engine hasn’t done many miles as bores and crank are original size.He said bores are slightly scored with some water marks,which he hopes will hone out.He would then fit std new pistons,if not he’ll rebore to next size.The cam............well, I’ll let you decide what you think of it,he’s sent me a pic!!Cannot believe NW says your engine is in good condition with a cam like that. Looks like it was deprived of oil or maybe it is a soft cam. New b.end bearings should be put in and crank cleaned as a precaution. Also barrel honed and new piston rings cam brushes should also be changed.
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I don’t think I said he said it was in good condition! He said it hasn’t done many miles........
New pistons, bearings etc plus anything else requiring renewal will be done.
3 of the 4 lobes were completely gone as you can see. A perfect example of a mk3 soft cam that wasn’t hardened correctly. When the engine returns it will be undoubtedly better than probably most engines that ever came out of the factory.Looking forward to starting the rebuild
Fast Eddie
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So, it’ll be getting a PW3 cam then...?
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I’m sure he will give it to me when I collect it,but why would I want it?
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Yes,probably.......
I'm not accusing anybody but unless you have actually seen your engine stripped down, how do you know that it came out of your engine? Other than that, I'm saying nothing. But ask for it back and throw towards a scrap metal guy.
