74 Mk2 - disc rotor removal - any tricks?

joe czech said:

update on removing my caliper plug. pin spanner removal tool, an impact wrench, and about 2 seconds. no bolted to the fork thing, no heat, no muss, no fuss.

internals, still not a pretty sight, but got an email from Ella - shipped out the rebuild kit/parts yesterday -

update on the handlebars - received the "correct" UK/euro bars from AN yesterday. they measure out at 27.25 inches width. there is no way that they will work with the master cylinder. the brake hose actually comes out toward the inside of the upper fork yoke. Old Britts list their UK bars (p/n 064123) at 31 inches (3.75 inch difference). I moved out the throttle grip assembly and MC, among with the clutch/switch bank 1.88 inches on each end, and low and behold, everything falls into place. unless I'm missing something with mounting the MC and clutch lever, I can't see how the AN bars are correct. ???????

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better let AN know then!!

I purchased my '74 Mk2a from an original owner that did not replace the handlebars. I am new to motorcycles and Nortons as of 1 year ago, so I did not pay any attention to the handlebar width. Reading this thread, it appears we have the "euro-style" bars. A couple friends who are familiar with motorcycles have commented favorably on the narrower span of the bars. They said it provides a little more feel/responsiveness. I'm good with it as I have shorter arms than normal. The handlebar hardware packages a little tight on the throttle side but it does fit. Since I just upgraded to a VIP member, I included a 'before' photo at the end. The bike sat in a shed for 35+ years before we acquired it last year. Its been a great project for my son and I. Love it. And we are so thankful for this website and you guys for providing priceless info for our endeavor.

Saber said:

I purchased my '74 Mk2a from an original owner that did not replace the handlebars. I am new to motorcycles and Nortons as of 1 year ago, so I did not pay any attention to the handlebar width. Reading this thread, it appears we have the "euro-style" bars. A couple friends who are familiar with motorcycles have commented favorably on the narrower span of the bars. They said it provides a little more feel/responsiveness. I'm good with it as I have shorter arms than normal. The handlebar hardware packages a little tight on the throttle side but it does fit. Since I just upgraded to a VIP member, I included a 'before' photo at the end. The bike sat in a shed for 35+ years before we acquired it last year. Its been a great project for my son and I. Love it. And we are so thankful for this website and you guys for providing priceless info for our endeavor.
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okay, NOW i'm really confused! your first pic shows the handlebar width at approximately 28 inches. now if the twist grip, and the LH grip were positioned out about 3/8 inch that would work with the 27.25 inch AN bars. what's got me confused, if I install the AN bars, with the twist grip flush with the end of the bar, the brake hose, no way in hell will fit on the outside of the upper fork yoke as you show. QUESTION - is there different master cylinder assemblies with different dimensions? here's a couple pics with everything set to the 27.25 inch bars --



note that the hose naturally routes toward the inside of the fork yoke --

what's the difference between the two pics - i'm confused - ????





if i position the master cylinder as shown, the reservoir is angled back too much for the normal fluid level. can anyone figure out what's going on here? this is starting to affect my mental health -

joe czech said:

note that the hose naturally routes toward the inside of the fork yoke --

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It seems AN is selling the 850 Mk3 06.5748 UK/Euro. handlebar (below, where the hose is routed to the front) as also 06.4887.


https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16622
"06.5748
HANDLEBAR (EUROPEAN) (06.4887)"

Saber said:

I purchased my '74 Mk2a from an original owner that did not replace the handlebars.View attachment 13020

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Those bars are knurled which would be unusual for Norton (except Hi-Rider bars?) especially as the knurling is outside the clamps so might not be original.

L.A.B. said:

It seems AN is selling the 850 Mk3 06.5748 UK/Euro. handlebar (below, where the hose is routed to the front) as also 06.4887.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16622
"06.5748
HANDLEBAR (EUROPEAN) (06.4887)"

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i looked at a (restored) Mk3, and as you stated, the hose is routed toward the inner part of the fork yoke. the physical outline of the Mk2 and Mk3 differs, so i'm guessing, that in Sabre's Mk2a's case it's a tight fit for the hose routing. maybe this was an issue that Norton worked out with the design of the Mk3. anyway, i'm going with the 31 in wide bars and let the hose route to the outside of the fork as originally intended. thanks for everyone's help - another piece of the puzzle.....

Something to consider. You could get a Triumph master cylinder. The hose connection comes straight out the end, not down. The hose can easily go down through the top yoke. Besides the different look, the only drawback is that the Norton switch is WAY better than the Triumph. If you opt to do this, make sure the switch mechanism is in the housing before buying - hard to find. The master cylinder itself screws into the housing and is changeable - while you're at it, you could get the 13mm version. The Lucas switch console will mount normally.

Caution: The new production parts do not come with the switch. Last time, I used a banjo bolt switch, but that would defeat being able to go straight out of the master cylinder.

marshg246 said:

Something to consider. You could get a Triumph master cylinder. The hose connection comes straight out the end, not down. The hose can easily go down through the top yoke. Besides the different look, the only drawback is that the Norton switch is WAY better than the Triumph. If you opt to do this, make sure the switch mechanism is in the housing before buying - hard to find. The master cylinder itself screws into the housing and is changeable - while you're at it, you could get the 13mm version. The Lucas switch console will mount normally.

Caution: The new production parts do not come with the switch. Last time, I used a banjo bolt switch, but that would defeat being able to go straight out of the master cylinder.

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thanks for the tip. however, as is said, every time I deviate from the norm, it turns around and bites me in the arse. besides, just rebuilt my MC - all new internals, new cap, etc. BTW, when I tore into the thing, much like the caliper, it was full of a rusty sludge. looked like something they dragged up from the wreck site of the titanic. besides, i'm trying to bring it back as close to factory as possible. again, thanks.

L.A.B. said:

Those bars are knurled which would be unusual for Norton (except Hi-Rider bars?) especially as the knurling is outside the clamps so might not be original.

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Thanks for your observation on my handlebars LAB. I should coreect my statement - the PO did not menton anything about replaced handlebars. Im curious to know if anyone else has handlebars with knurl marks like mine.

So what was the verdict on the correct handlebar for proper MC fitment? Looks like I will be replacing my re-pos with a proper one. I like the idea of the lower Euro style or at least the UK style...not wanting the US spec ;-)

Tornado said:

So what was the verdict on the correct handlebar for proper MC fitment? Looks like I will be replacing my re-pos with a proper one. I like the idea of the lower Euro style or at least the UK style...not wanting the US spec ;-)

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installed the 31 inch wide UK/euro bars from old britts (p/n 06-4132, measures W 31", H 2", PB 6") - BTW, an andover-norton part. used a venhill, 24 or 25 inch braided stainless brake hose - length seems perfect. I set the handlebar's fork pivot so the imaginary line on the handlebar rise (side view) was parallel to the fork tubes, then set the cap on the MC reservoir level in the fore-aft, horizonal plane. the position of the clutch/brake levers feel good. honestly, it looks perfect, much like i would think would be a factory install. everything clears, with no interference. the clutch cable comes straight out from the adjuster on the LH grip, and seems to route perfectly with no signs of binding -







between the wiring and handlebars, made lots of progress the last couple days. need to finish the rebuild on the front brake caliper, and the last thing to sort out is the carbs and fuel tank. there's light at the end of the tunnel.

Triumphs of the era used some chrome clips to hold the electrical cables in place. Prettier than ty- wraps and last much longer than the stock black rubber bands. (It's what I'm using so it must be the only good solution.)

batrider said:

Triumphs of the era used some chrome clips to hold the electrical cables in place. Prettier than ty- wraps and last much longer than the stock black rubber bands. (It's what I'm using so it must be the only good solution.)

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I have the chrome clips. the ty-wraps or zip-ties are only temp (at least on the handlebars) -