74 Mk2 - clutch -- need food for thought...

Barnett plates, (because they use aluminum host plates, they won’t wear your $$$ clutch hub like the steel host plates of the OEM)

Stack height set to Dynodave’s spec.

Clutch rod seal

ATF in the case.

Lube the cable, or Venhill Featherlight.


This provides a:
No slip
No drag
Progressive action
Long lasting

Thanks to the info shared by DynoDave, I did it only once, perfectly.
My OEM sintered bronze plates are reposing quietly in a box, measuring only .001" or 2 from new thickness.

baldy said:

I recommend a new clutch actuator [pork chop]. Realign so there is a nice straight pull.

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This is really important, and it's easy to overlook when assembling a gearbox cover. Most people use a punch to tighten the lockring and it's nearly impossible to keep the "clutch op, body" aligned with the cable entrance.

Just went through my original because of 4th gear slip when burning the coal. This was always pretty much an annual ritual.... Wipe down with solvent & readjust for like new performance, although if allowed to go unattended too long deglazing was necessary.
It has always been somewhat of a beastie to operate, but never bad enough to force a change because I write it off as 'Norton Normal' in that its operation has never varied.... And yes the ATF has been a true wonder. Thanks for convincing me.

concours said:

Stack height set to Dynodave’s spec.

Clutch rod seal, (Dynodave sells em)

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FWIW my data is reporting, as a reference, what is ORIGINAL and not any spec or recommendation. My write up was meant to provide understanding so a number could be decided and compared to the clutch basket depth.

When the stack height is equal measure to the basket depth, the chart shows where you are on the "curve" being @ FLAT.

The clutch basket depth being (normally) considered as the unchangeable and the stack height as the adjustable.
That is not really true, but few besides myself change the basket depth such as a custom backing plate on my Norvil belt drive.

As an aside, NEVER sand/bead blast the steel clutch plates. Jitterbug sand with 440 grit to remove/recondition any glaze.180 if real bad...

Wash fiber friction plates with kerosene or brake clean. Same for bronze plates add wire brush if glazed and black.
Please get CCRS from my dealers...or be prepared to buy 5 club/shop price...http://atlanticgreen.com/store.htm

New data: Be very cautious of using fiber (non bronze) plates in E-Start. I won't use them any more in MKIII

dynodave said:

New data: Be very cautious of using fiber (non bronze) plates in E-Start. I won't use them any more in MKIII

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Why is that?

As I get sprag blow up residue parts I am finding dark pastey substance on the parts. Now I am specifically asking "bronze or fiber"???
I am trying to decide the possible effect of oily fibrous substance on the sprag dog bones and the ability to grip or slip?
Of course the starter can lock up and while not very often totally explode the starter armature...then they call me...

Pulling the clutch plates out should be part of your maintenance at lease once a year if ridden regularly, I am still running my stock clutch plates, no change to the stack height and have only replaced the clutch centre for the first time 7 years ago, I have never had GB oil migrate to my primary as I don't over fill my gear box, I messure how much GB oil I put in my GB and I also put grease on my clutch rod, my original clutch plates have over 160k miles on them and my Norton was a every day rider for most of its 44 years of ownership, my clutch is smooth and light to operate and has been like this since new, the only time my clutch has slipped was when using motor oil at the beginning, the lighter the oil in the primary fixed that so ATF brand F and been using it for over 30 years now, my gears have always changed smoothly and have never had any problems clicking it into netural when stopping, I also have run the stock plates when running a belt drive and dry primary, but have gone back the chain drive now.
So its very important to do all your maintenance on your Norton regularly if you want to get long life out of your bike, its not a big job pulling the clutch down for a clean, I only clean mine in kero, so in 44 years I have only replaced the clutch centre once as well the pressure plate once and 2 triplex chains and a belt or 2 when running the BD and the stock clutch plates are still good.

Ashley

ashman said:

Pulling the clutch plates out should be part of your maintenance at lease once a year if ridden regularly

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To the group...IMO...
You should very likely only clean your clutch after 5 or more seasons with a clutch rod seal, unless you over fill the primary with oil. Than the primary oil level is a problem and the CCRS is only for gearbox oil retension...

Joe,you got very precious advices from norton owners. ATF makes miracles for keeping clean plates. Hardened clutch center (CNW has the rigth recipe), correct stack height, and pushrod seal prevents oil contamination, is an extra bonus over the ATF. Have nice rides...lucky you...none is in the close forecast for us in Canada.

dynodave said:

To the group...IMO...
You should very likely only clean your clutch after 5 or more seasons with a clutch rod seal, unless you over fill the primary with oil. Than the primary oil level is a problem and the CCRS is only for gearbox oil retension...

Click to expand...

I do my maintenance yearly even if it don't need doing, it pays to go into your primary just to check things are all good stator/rota, chain/belt, change oil, pulling clutch checking on clutch basket bearing etc etc, keeping maintenance up on all moving parts, keeping up maintenance = reliable bike and mine has been for 44 years now, of course things do wear out, hence why maintenance is very important to find out before something fails on the road.

Ashley

By the way we don't have seasons here, we ride all year round, except when its pissing down rain as it is now, our wet session has started and they are getting rain where its needed.

Ashley