73 basketcase - great white north

so had a neighbour give me a hand, and we are now sitting on the ground. wheels and tires on, side stand main stand, right side peg and KS, tailights and signals too.

next; get the rear brake switch bracket sorted and the finish that piece of wire, and front brake bleed and wire. then hook-up the boyer wires, temp fuel line and we should be able to final hear it sing... better ad some pipes and mufflers too
73 basketcase - great white north
 
That’s quite a milestone, congratulations !

Please tell me you’re not leaving your regulator / rectifier unit there ??
 
Fast Eddie said:
That’s quite a milestone, congratulations !

Please tell me you’re not leaving your regulator / rectifier unit there ??
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won't fit anywhere else, theres no room under the seat or beside the battery, it needs to be bolted solid, and i don't want to attach it to the cradle. it can be moved later if a better place comes along..

the PO supplied the bike with chromed side covers, so i am not changing them. they actuallylook okay with a dark tank.
 
more progress; front fender, disc brake system, exhaust pipes, balance pipe, tail light/rear signals.
73 basketcase - great white north

but i ran into a problem... see the pipes are of a 75 and the bike is a 73... the mufflers will almost fit, but then the side stand hits the exhaust underside on the way down
73 basketcase - great white north


so the mufflers need to come up a bit. can anyone tell me how far back the mufflers go? i will fab new brackets, but i am unsure where the muffler exit ended up near the back wheel?
 
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850commando said:
but i ran into a problem... see the pipes are of a 75 and the bike is a 73... the mufflers will almost fit, but then the side stand hits the exhaust underside on the way down


so the mufflers need to come up a bit. can anyone tell me how far back the mufflers go?
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Only the plate attached to the silencer/muffler is a peashooter plate, the other two are not.
 
L.A.B. said:
Only the plate attached to the silencer/muffler is a peashooter plate, the other two are not.
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i realize that. so i can fab new backing plate of the Z-bracket, no issue, however i am unsure how far the muffler gets pushed onto the exhaust pipe with determines how far they stick out the back
 
850commando said:
i realize that. so i can fab new backing plate of the Z-bracket, no issue, however i am unsure how far the muffler gets pushed onto the exhaust pipe with determines how far they stick out the back
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You will probably have to make both plates or the rubber may rest on the silencer.
Here's what it would normally look like.
73 basketcase - great white north
 
If you fiddle about and flip those plates around, you may be able to come up with a workable orientation (not certain, but perhaps possible)
 
got the left side done, getting good practice making paper dolls and cutting them out. Actually i use cardboard to do the layouts, the right side will be done tomorrow.
 
It looks like your bike is coming together OK. One bit of advice I can give is that when out riding the bike, carry a spare rubber dobbin in case one of them decides to break!
 
okay so I need some help: today was the day, it got oiled, fuel, battery and foot power.

it did start and run at 2500rpm. i had a temporary rig to fuel the vm34, but it only got about 4 mins before the fuel ran out, so will have to get some fresh

now fresh fuel no go. checked the spark, there is power to the coils, and a second set of coils laying on the head give a spark, not sure where to go
the vm34 has 6dh3 needle (no other number on the needle), 220 fuel jet and 55 idle jet.

this carb came with the bike, it has never fueled a bike so its all new.and i'm green on this perticular carb...

I'm kind off stuck, any suggestions?
 
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I suppose I would first check if there is fuel in the carb by removing the plug on the bowl.
Turn the gas tank tap on and see if fuel flows through the carb and drains out the bowl.

Is the plug wet after kicking over a number of times?
 
okay so i changed the jets, whatever the carb had been setup for, it surely wasn't a norton 850.

took a little diking around but after i set the air screw at 2 turns out it finally lit of.

I'm a bit tickled because the Shindengen R/R is putting out 14.0+V at about 3000rpm. so the alternator is healthy,
tracked down one oil leak of the banjo fitting at the back of the oil tank... i was getting a puddle but none of the hoses were wet. i'll get some pictures up later.

on a side note i really appreciate the people here who have been answering questions and been a source of experience. I was fortunate that a local supply had the various jets in stock. but i'd sure like to throw a thanks out to Bill at
RockyPoint who has gone above and beyond to share his wisdom on this mikuni.

Also can't forget the "MAN" Jim Comstock who did the engine machining work

thanks to ALL
 
It’s a great feeling when you finally ‘crack it’ isn’t it?

Don’t forget to go through the head tightening routine. If you’re using a composite gasket you should torque it again now you have run it (even before riding it).

I then did mine at something like 50, 100, 500 miles. It became quite annoying, but it needed doing each time, sometimes a lot!
 
Fast Eddie said:
It’s a great feeling when you finally ‘crack it’ isn’t it?

Don’t forget to go through the head tightening routine. If you’re using a composite gasket you should torque it again now you have run it (even before riding it).

I then did mine at something like 50, 100, 500 miles. It became quite annoying, but it needed doing each time, sometimes a lot!
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Fast E; did you back off each fastener or just retorque to the required value? its easy enough to do right now with the tank off, do I also need to retorque the crankcase /barrel studs/nuts?

PS; i just deleted my acct at the picture hosting site, some not so good info floating about them, its a sad world out there... will have to find another hosting site
 
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