72 Combat project swapping "front burner" spot

2 of the valves were off by .001 each. Anyway, it seems much quieter, I guess the lash is THAT critical to noise.

Got that niggly left fork leg to smooth up considerably after sorting though 4 sets of bushings on hand to find the "golden pairing".

Now to tackle this stupid clatter from the rear brake shoe retaining bolt heads rubbing on the backside welds for the cush lugs inside the brake drum. Must be missing a washer/spacer somewhere in there.

The bike feels REALLY strong; even though I'm in break-in mode, I can tell it's a beast.

Must be missing a washer/spacer somewhere in there

Click to expand...

You might need another P/N NME5276 washer on the dummy axle side. I believe this is what spaces the brake plate away from the drum.

Nope, the snap ring had come adrift, allowing the bearing to scoot out of position. We're good now.

Hoofah! That thing pulls like a freight train!

Oops...

How do you delete a single post?

All that's left is electrical and cosmetics. Had it up to 70 EFFORTLESSLY in 3rd. It just lopes along at 4500 RPM in 4th @ 70.

Tank & seat (with tail light) will be swapped, battery & sidecovers installed and electrical connections finalized.

It's not bad looking as-is with the High Rider tank & Corbin "brick", but I prefer the big Dunstall tank, even though I don't particularly care for the styling of the long "lumpy" Dunstall seat.

Wonderful job

Hi Paul
Wonderful job.
A really neat bike & the best sort of buy! ie all the right parts.
Please ditch the Dunstall seat as soon as you can find a replacement. I know they are period but ugh!
Look forward to reading about how she goes.
all the best Chris

Please ditch the Dunstall seat as soon as you can find a replacement

Click to expand...

And they are quite prone to cracking. I have a friend that bought an 810 back in the seventies and replaced the seat three times in two years. Unfortunately this has been my experience with most of the Dunstall stuff. Looks pretty, but not made very well.

I really like my Corbin seat on my MkV. While it feels hard, it is much more comfortable after a couple hours in the saddle than the stock '73 "ironing board". The same holds true for the Corbin on my R1100RS. It feels hard to the touch, but gives in the right places for long stints.

In either garb, Paul, that's a nice looking machine!

This bike isn't being built for long stints, so the Corbin seat's hardness isn't really an issue one way or the other. There's no argument on the LOOKS of the Corbin.

As to the Dunstall seats cracking, that's due to improper mouning, blocking and bracing. There's also no argument from me on the LOOKS; still, it's one of those love/hate things that tends to grow on you. The fact that it's "period" is really what I'm after, although that contrasts with the modern front brake & ARD mag...

Okay, this is it. Nothing left but a few insignificant details (horn, fuel drips, fresh plugs), it's running GREAT.

I need to get the proper lighting and flash settings on my digital camera, to take some shots that show more detail, but here you go:





1972 Norton 750 Combat Commando
Paul Dunstall GP tank & seat
Fair Spares / Norvil fully floating 13” front brake disc kit
AP racing front brake caliper
Magura front brake master cylinder
Clubman replica Ducati SS “bikini” fairing
Clubman rearset footpegs & integrated rear brake lever
Clubman 1-1/2” exhaust system w/ “peashooter” mufflers
ARD magneto ignition
PVL dual-output (wasted spark) coil
Sparx 3-phase alternator
Thomaselli adjustable clip-on handlebars
Barnett clutch friction plates
Ferrodo brake pads & shoes
K&N dual-neck air filter
Avon RoadRunner 4.10 x 19 tires (front & rear)
Regina drive chain
Adjustable isolastics retrofit
Old Britts Braided stainless rocker feed oil lines
Kibblewhite “Black Diamond” valves & guides
.020” oversize pistons & rings
Oil sump & breather modifications
F.A.G. “Superblend” main bearings
Pushrods shortened .040”
Original Combat head & 2S camshaft
OEM “Green Blob” tach & speedo
Doherty cables
Emgo shocks

I scoured through the parts bins, found a slotted clutch cable abutment and installed it, then found out something else was amiss.

Removing the primary cover revealed that the clutch adjuster nut was improperly tightened and had come adrift. I fixed that, adjusted the clutch and took it out for a successful spin.

Pulling in to the shop and propping it up on the centerstand, I realized that I hadn't replaced the centerstand bolt that I sent Chip! Another quick dig through the CAD plated stuff and I was set.

One last test ride out to my favorite nearby spot and I managed a quick romp over the national speed limit, but was hampered by traffic; so, I headed back to the barn to get some chow.

Next: replacing the imbalanced front wheel with one I just got off e-bay so that I can eliminate the bouncy ride. It's TERRIBLE.

Well, looking for previous discussions regarding the Dunstall GP tank and who the original fabricators were, it wasn't in this thread...