1972 commando rebuild

BERT

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Are there no other markings on the underside of either yoke except for ANG on the lower and "266"?
The certification plate on the headstock has been removed at some point as it is not fixed with the normal hammer-drive 'rivets' (link. below) but what appears to be oversized pop rivets?

Now I wonder if It's an 850 frame with a 750 tag and the upper yolk is wrong or if it even matters for fitment of the steering assembly as long as the yokes match? Kind of reminds me of the Fabulous Johnny Cash song "One Piece At A Time".
 

L.A.B.

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Now I wonder if It's an 850 frame with a 750 tag

Is there an 'R' with a month/year date stamp on the frame gusset plate behind the LH Z-plate in the area identified, below?
Frame.jpg


An 850 frame would normally have its part number stamped on the front face of the LH fuel tank support bracket whereas 750 frames do not.
I can't see any evidence of a number in the close-up pic of the certification plate but it can be faintly stamped so maybe hidden by paint?
 

BERT

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Is there an 'R' with a month/year date stamp on the frame gusset plate behind the LH Z-plate in the area identified, below?
Frame.jpg


An 850 frame would normally have its part number stamped on the front face of the LH fuel tank support bracket whereas 750 frames do not.
I can't see any evidence of a number in the close-up pic of the certification plate but it can be faintly stamped so maybe hidden by paint?
Yes. On that gusset plate: FB 72 or F3 72 . Awesome. So I know it's a 72 frame and the upper yoke is correct.
Is there an 'R' with a month/year date stamp on the frame gusset plate behind the LH Z-plate in the area identified, below?
Frame.jpg


An 850 frame would normally have its part number stamped on the front face of the LH fuel tank support bracket whereas 750 frames do not.
I can't see any evidence of a number in the close-up pic of the certification plate but it can be faintly stamped so maybe hidden by paint?
Yes L.A.B., there is " F 3 72" or " F B 72" stamped on the gusset where you described. The "R" may have been welded over. So it would be safe to assume it is a 72 frame and the upper yoke is correct.
 

BERT

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Is there an 'R' with a month/year date stamp on the frame gusset plate behind the LH Z-plate in the area identified, below?
Frame.jpg


An 850 frame would normally have its part number stamped on the front face of the LH fuel tank support bracket whereas 750 frames do not.
I can't see any evidence of a number in the close-up pic of the certification plate but it can be faintly stamped so maybe hidden by paint?
Here is a close up of the plate. Oops on the double post- sorry.
20210226_144441.jpg
 

L.A.B.

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Yes. On that gusset plate: FB 72 or F3 72 .

'F' might be a badly stamped 'R' not that it matters as the 3/72 would be a 750 frame.

The 850 frame part number would be where the paint has been removed but as it's not an 850 frame then no point looking any further.
P1030678_zpsmot3hizf.jpg
 

BERT

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'F' might be a badly stamped 'R' not that it matters as the 3/72 would be a 750 frame.

The 850 frame part number would be where the paint has been removed but as it's not an 850 frame then no point looking any further.
P1030678_zpsmot3hizf.jpg
Thank you big time for helping me getting this sorted out. I may not have a Nortaha after all. Cheers, Dave.
 
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cNw offer a triple clamp, as well as NYC norton I believe,... I mean if you're lookin' to replace those yokes... Why not go for broke. Okay that was a lousy rhyme, but they are a nice "bit of kit" but sort of pricey. Cj (... I know - I know, it's easy for me to spend your money, right lol)
 

Time Warp

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Are you going to add inner reinforcement plates to the rear shock mounts.
 
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I hadn't thought about it. Should I?
It is recommended or an identified weak area... Old Britts web site has info on it and used to sell the pre-cut plates that could be welded in place.
 

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I hadn't thought about it. Should I?

If the hoop was not drooped, it might be fine depending on intended future use (and if the frame was still to be painted)

The lack of them would place your frame closer to 1972 than later.
 

BERT

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If the hoop was not drooped, it might be fine depending on intended future use (and if the frame was still to be painted)

The lack of them would place your frame closer to 1972 than later.
The seat rocks a bit. Missing buffers maybe? The tubes and mount plates look good there. The frame has been powder coated and I don't know how much that stuff can hide. I'll look closer. On the topic of powder coating, will it burn off before the steel turns colour? And how would one prepare the metal before bending or welding? Thank you.
 

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If it is powder coated I would not bother.
If it is not drooped after 48 years it should be good for another.
 

BERT

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Thank you Timewarp. I know nothing about powdercoating. I have discovered though, it is thicker than paint.
 

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I first used powder coating in the 1980's (CR250RC) and did not bother masking anything including the bores on the triple clamps so that was a time consuming clean up lesson.
If the frame is sand blasted it will last for decades (and not peel off as it can do with the liquid type pre treatment seen on other bikes)
 

grandpaul

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I first used powder coating in the 1980's (CR250RC) and did not bother masking anything including the bores on the triple clamps so that was a time consuming clean up lesson.
If the frame is sand blasted it will last for decades (and not peel off as it can do with the liquid type pre treatment seen on other bikes)
I agree completely.

Having the Old Britts masking guide is a fantastic asset for those who are dealing with a powercoater that is unaware of Commando chassis' requirements.

Being able to quickly, easily, and effectively do spot touch-ups in the case of post-coating modifications using a rattle can of gloss black Rust-O-Leum is nice, too...
 

BERT

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I agree completely.

Having the Old Britts masking guide is a fantastic asset for those who are dealing with a powercoater that is unaware of Commando chassis' requirements.

Being able to quickly, easily, and effectively do spot touch-ups in the case of post-coating modifications using a rattle can of gloss black Rust-O-Leum is nice, too...
 
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