1969 Commando revitalization.

So the body casting is 930 and the 11 indicates BSA ( I think previously mentioned ) .

What would a Commando carbs numbers be?

If the 930 castings are all the same new pilot and main jets might be the answer. Previous owner gave new floats from Andover Norton.

Think I’ll try a rebuild first…..

Jackman said:

So what do the experienced Commando owners think.

My carbs apparently are not a match one is 930-11 the other no markings the non marked one has a stripped thread for the a bowl screw the 930-11 seems to run out of gas and there is unknown jets in the carbs, both slides seem to slide nicely, question is would you recommend rebuilding a mismatched pair or buy new? I have found new carbs available and will spend the cash but maybe there is something to work with on these carbs however the mismatch kinda bugs me.

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930/11 is for: BSA B44 VICTOR 1967-68 B/FIT. Since that is a single carb. there is no match for it. The other carb must have the number on the other side - AFAIK, AMAL didn't/doesn't produce carbs without numbers.

Any 930 carb can be jetted to work on a 750 Commando. The carb top must be changed to have adjusters if not already there, and some filing is required on the side since they will interfere with each other.

Are least that one carb was most likely used when installed. A new set of Premier carbs would be good although right now, they are in short supply. Tell me what year and anything special about the bike and I'll tell you which carb set.

Jackman said:

What would a Commando carbs numbers be?

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For that model, probably 930/30 (RH) and 930/31 (LH).

Jackman said:

If the 930 castings are all the same new pilot and main jets might be the answer.

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Possibly, although I suggest you take a look at the slide bores (and slides) first.

Jackman said:

new pilot and main jets might be the answer

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Needle jets (and needles) as the pilot jets are a fixed 'bush'.
"Pilot Jets

When first introduced, all carburetters were fitted with a detachable pilot jet screwed into a threaded hole in the bottom of the carburetter body. This arrangement is retained for 2 strokes, but from 1968, was replaced for 4 strokes by a bush pressed into the gallery behind the pilot air screw."

L.A.B. Thanks a big help ! British bike the same but different enjoying the learning curve !

L.A.B. said:

For that model, probably 930/30 (RH) and 930/31 (LH).

Shop Carburettor for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969 | AMAL Carburet | AMAL Carburetters

Carburettor for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969

amalcarb.co.uk

Shop Carburettor for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969 | AMAL Carburet | AMAL Carburetters

Carburettor for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969

amalcarb.co.uk

Possibly, although I suggest you take a look at the slide bores (and slides) first.



Needle jets (and needles) as the pilot jets are a fixed 'bush'.

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I see that L.A.B. already answered my question. When buying Premier carbs set, normally you go by the set number. In this one case, AMAL does not sell a set with /30 and /31 - they do sell them individually but are out of stock. Those have the same specifications as PACK 111 (R930/68 & L930/69 - 220 main jet, 106 needle jet, 3 slide cutaway, standard needle, standard spray bar, needle position 2). It gets real expensive to rebuild them to do a complete job. If both have 3-cutaway slides and 220 or 230 main jets, replacing the needle jets and needles might be enough for a while, but it's not the ease of movement that matters so much, but do the slides allow air past them.

I sold my last PACK 111 earlier this week. I have every AMAL 750 PACK on backorder and AMAL has none for direct sale.

Just to add that 'PACK' kits are Premiers and 'ACK' kits are the original specification (fixed pilot, etc.) carbs.

"Part Number: ACK 134
Description: Carburettor set for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969"


"Part Number: PACK 134
Description: Premier carburettor set for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969"

Gosh this is confusing,,, Is there any word on when Anal maybe back up and running?

I found a pair new at a vintage Triumph parts dealer however he said he makes changes to the carb to fit the Commando . Not so sure buying from the Triumph shop is a good idea on account of I really don’t understand it all , yet .

Jackman said:

I found a pair new at a vintage Triumph parts dealer however he said he makes changes to the carb to fit the Commando . Not so sure buying from the Triumph shop is a good idea on account of I really don’t understand it all , yet .

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As long as the carbs have the flats on the inner unused throttle stop bosses and manifold flanges, threaded adjuster carb tops (choke adjuster holes can be blanked off again if you wish) and either single spigot or 180-degree double spigot banjos (according to which fuel line you decide to fit) with the correct internal parts then it shouldn't be a problem.

L.A.B. said:

Just to add that 'PACK' kits are Premiers and 'ACK' kits are the original specification (fixed pilot, etc.) carbs.

Shop Carburettor set for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969 | AMAL Carb | AMAL Carburetters

Carburettor set for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969

amalcarb.co.uk

"Part Number: ACK 134
Description: Carburettor set for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969"

Shop Premier carburettor set for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969 | A | AMAL Carburetters

Premier carburettor set for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969

amalcarb.co.uk

"Part Number: PACK 134
Description: Premier carburettor set for a Norton Commando 750cc 1969"

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Interesting! I complained a few years ago about no ACK/PACK for /30 & /31 and they told me that they would look into it but PACK 111 is the same - they never told me anything after that. I just checked and ACK/PACK 134 is now in the trade price list so I'll add it to my web site today and put some on B.O. I get asked about 69 a lot and have one in my shop now waiting for carbs - the owner will be happy to know he will have the correct carb numbers now (if they ever become available).

Jackman said:

Gosh this is confusing,,, Is there any word on when Anal maybe back up and running?

I found a pair new at a vintage Triumph parts dealer however he said he makes changes to the carb to fit the Commando . Not so sure buying from the Triumph shop is a good idea on account of I really don’t understand it all , yet .

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AMAL has had trouble for about 5 years. They made the discission to use AL bodies only last year and are slowly digging out. For instance, I recently received two PACK 140s that were on B.O. for about 6 months.

AFAIK, no 930 for Norton have been sold - probably working through all the Triumph B.O.s first since there are so many of them. Some dealers will make 930/300-930/301 into what you want but at a very high price and most leave the filing to you.

Any Triumph 650 930 carb would likely work out of the box jet wise but filing is required to get them to sit side-by-side and they would probably have 3-1/2 rather than 3 cutaway, and you would have to use the carb tops from your current carbs or new. the Triumph-specific carbs would normally have 230 main jets, but that's probably fine if you use ethanol gas. However if they have 190 (some did), they would need to be changed. If you have the dealer set them up, tell them: 220 main jet, 106 needle jet, 3 slide cutaway, standard needle, standard spray bar, needle position 2, two screw adjuster tops (or one screwed plug and one screw adjuster top if you want to eliminate the choke). If they want more than $575 delivered for a Premier set you're being ripped off - however there is a 15% price increase for dealers buying carbs after July 1th so if you wait long it will be higher.

The 932s are mostly Norton so when 32mm bodies are available those get filled based on first come, first served. I have a minimum of two of every Norton-specific PACK on B.O. except PACK 134 (will add to the list today).

marshg246 said:

Interesting! I complained a few years ago about no ACK/PACK for /30 & /31 and they told me that they would look into it but PACK 111 is the same - they never told me anything after that.

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The difference between 30/31 and 68/69 is the original 30/31 carbs would not have had the drain plug float bowls and waterproof ticklers. Apart from that, the specifications appear to be the same.

So, P/ACK 134 I believe will have drain plug float bowls (as the non-drain plug bowls are no longer available*) and both 111 and 134 will have the waterproof ticklers so 111 and 134 probably are the same kit.

*http://amalcarb.co.uk/float-chamber-n-l-a.html

"Part Number: 622/050
Description: Float Chamber - N.L.A"

Well I've decided to spend some money and build some 18" wheels while preserving the originals so that said anyone know when buying hubs is 1969 a one year specific hub? Do the front and rear hubs interchange with 70 and 71 year Commando's?

Jackman said:

Do the front and rear hubs interchange with 70 and 71 year Commando's?

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As far as I'm aware, the front hub remained unchanged from '68-'73, however, '68-'71 was listed as the bare hub 060364 but as the hub assembly (complete with bearings, spacers, etc.) 061579 for '72-'73.

'68-'70 had the bolt-up rear hub and drum sprocket.
'71-'74 had the cush hub and sprocket. This will replace the earlier bolt-up hub assembly (but requires the cush drum sprocket).

Crush hub hmmm since my bike is still new to me I better see exactly what I have. Was 1972 was first year for disk brakes ?

Jackman said:

Crush hub

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Cush (cush drive). Your pictures show it has the bolt-up hub.

Cush hub:

Jackman said:

Was 1972 was first year for disk brakes ?

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Yes.

I think I have found rear hub , I'll be needing a front hub so if anyone has one I'm interested .

Jackman said:

I think I have found rear hub , I'll be needing a front hub so if anyone has one I'm interested .

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The correct rear hub for your bike is early bolt up style .
If you intend to follow up with the new wheels building , the only advice I can give is to give both new hubs / rims / spokes to a place familiar with lacing up Brit bike wheels with their offset spoke pattern .

Going the DIY route , I think I can pull it off using all the resources available (the web and YouTube) minus the experience, worst case scenario I send them up to Vermont the closest British bike shop that I know of. Could be rewarding or a bummer either way I'll post as I go even if I end up going to the shop in Vermont.

Jackman said:

Going the DIY route , I think I can pull it off using all the resources available (the web and YouTube) minus the experience, worst case scenario I send them up to Vermont the closest British bike shop that I know of. Could be rewarding or a bummer either way I'll post as I go even if I end up going to the shop in Vermont.

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You can DIY it . Lots of info on that approach. Good luck to ya .

Jackman said:

Looks like I’m missing the chokes

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You don't need them.