My bike came with the Atlas/Dommie lever and it took a long time to figure out why the clutch would not release fully. That and the uneven diapraghm fingers. It reduces pushrod travel by about 040" and makes the clutch so light that with the correct stack of plates and a Venhill featherlight cable its less than one finger, truly. 4 steel, 4 Surflex and that Venhill cable and the extra leverage of the Atlas lever is not needed, two fingers is easy.Does any one change out the actuator lever at g'box/clutch cable side for an Atlas one and does it make the lever action softer?
Yes I did. Definitely makes the lever action softer, never had problems the clutch not releasing fully.Brooking 850 said:I wondered what the clutch was for!!!!
Does any one change out the actuator lever at g'box/clutch cable side for an Atlas one and does it make the lever action softer?
Regards Mike
FWIW, do not try to make your own clutch rod unless you are experienced in heat treating and can verify the hardness of the ends that you heat treat. Material requires tool steel/drill rod. Drill rod is not easy to find and it is hard to buy less than 10'.airwolf said:Hi, I recently bought a `68 S type 750 Commando with a variety of missing parts, I would appreciate it if anyone could tell me the length and diameter of the clutch push rod.
Right. The first production model "S" was built at Plumstead Rd. (ex-AMC Matchless factory) in March, 1969.Hmm, a variety of missing parts indeed. Don't think they made the s type commando until '69.