1968 frame brace
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DogT
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If you want to stick with the center stand mounted on the frame you will have to get a 70 frame. 71 changed to center stand on the cradle. Prop stand changed too and was much improved by 72 I think. 850 frame is different too, but I think everything will fit. Other thing is the oil tank. Is yours on the side or right behind the carbs? Central oil tank is also a 70 'feature'. There are frames available, but you would probably be able to fix your for much less. I think someone on the forum has done it. Probably find it if you search for 'early frame' or similar.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
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Looks like you are the unfortunate owner of the notorious "Widowmaker" frame. :? So maybe you can find a competent welder to add the missing tube to the steering head and back ? It's an involved project for sure or you could start searching for another frame. Any way you look at it the entire motorcycle will be disassembled and reassembled before it gets ridden again. Think of it as a chance to check over/ renew items too whilst it's apart. Should only cost about 10 grand or so...
sean said:
Not myself but I own a 1968 the frame of which was restored by a friend of mine. Said tube was installed sometime in its history, judging by the state it was in probably the early 70ies, at least that is my interpretation of the parts which were on the bike when I disassembled it. It is stored at my other wrenching space where I'll be next sunday so if you need pics let me know.
Tim
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If the frame is not injured why would ya need to do more than just cover the engine and other stuff from weld splatter to put under tube in and add head
steady fastener? Refinishing whole frame of course but other wise could just rattle can and no one but you and mechanic would ever know. I love perfection as much as anyone but only got so many weekends left to ride and it takes so long to take down and put back while others out enjoying.
steady fastener? Refinishing whole frame of course but other wise could just rattle can and no one but you and mechanic would ever know. I love perfection as much as anyone but only got so many weekends left to ride and it takes so long to take down and put back while others out enjoying.
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hobot said:
+1 That is exactly what I did. No motor removal, a friend who owns a boat propeller shop cut me a tube, I shaped the ends where it attaches front and rear. He welded it on with the motor in the frame, no problem.
For the original fix, all Norton did was call up someone at Reynolds, they got their heads together, decided to weld a tube on, and ran it hard around a track for a while and declared it fit. I think the computer they used to figure out what was needed was a paper napkin and a pencil on the table between 2 pints.
MF
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Oh yes,unless you are playfully rich you really have nothing to loose by taking big printed photos of later frames and photocopys of the frame dimensions over to a welder-friend to look at. Then ask if he/she (politically correct) can cut/fit the tube piece and weld it in for how much ? Dave Taylor headsteady to overcome old system fitting and coil mounts can always be changed too. Try it ,you have to try something.
The later frames also have a different bearing arrangement and distance between bearings for the steering head, as well as a different steering stop arrangement, so an earlier set of triple clamps will not fit a later frame without machining and welding the frame itself.
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With you credentials , stay on track and save the frame. Get to work. Take photos for us .
Saber13
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Wall thickness
A dent, deformation, puncture &c. to the tube wall will potentially cause catastrophic failure, especially if near the center of the span. Thin wall also invites vibration fracture, and easy penetration by an intersecting tube or other component. The usual rule is that the wall thickness should be at least 2% of the tube OD, but in my opinion 1/32” (.031”) is the thinnest I would use.
Taken from;
Victiory Tech Papers
Motorcycle Chassis Design and Modification
Best I could find on the web
A dent, deformation, puncture &c. to the tube wall will potentially cause catastrophic failure, especially if near the center of the span. Thin wall also invites vibration fracture, and easy penetration by an intersecting tube or other component. The usual rule is that the wall thickness should be at least 2% of the tube OD, but in my opinion 1/32” (.031”) is the thinnest I would use.
Taken from;
Victiory Tech Papers
Motorcycle Chassis Design and Modification
Best I could find on the web
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sean said:
Reynolds
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sean said:
The Reynolds Tube Co. made Norton (Featherbed, Commando, etc.) frames. Norton also bought a large amount of 850 Commando frames from Verlicchi in Italy.
sean said:
16 SWG (0.064") although some Commando frames appear to have been manufactured from metric size tubing.
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