Slider boss dimensions & TLS brake and hub dimensions.

Hi guys,
I’m new here. I acquired a Triton awhile back, intending to tidy it up, change a few things and ride it. How naive was that? Okay short Roadholder forks. 7” aluminium yoke, the bike has two offside sliders fitted! I’m wanting to source a replacement pinch bolt one, but which one. This ought to be easy. My frame is a ‘59 wideline. I’m given to understand that the pinch bolt boss for these is 41 mm; the current - wrong - slider‘s boss is 45 mm. It has a Honda TLS brake and hub in situ - I’ve not measure the width of this, but it fits centrally with a spacer on the RH side. I understand that the later, LH pinch bolt slider - for 7 3/8”yoke has a wider boss - what is the width of that? Without dimensions I’m facing a dilemma. My measurements and the fact that I have two offside sliders with 45 mm bosses, suggests that even though I have a 7” yoke, I might need the slider from a 7 3/8” one with my current setup. Or do I ? At some point, when funds permit I’d like to replace the Honda item with a Norton TLS brake and hub; is this perhaps wider? What is the wid of the Norton item? I don’t want to go down the route of fitting a slider with a wide boss, if this is required for the Honda brake and hub, only to have to source a pre ‘64 one when I replace it with a Norton one.

The Norton (Atlas) Commando brake is 120 mm outside to outside and the centre of the hub is 58 from the non brake side outer side.

The Commando drum sliders are.
Brake side - Axle block width 49 mm - Slider centre to the inner block face 31.5 mm.

Off side - Axle block width 46 mm - Slider centre to the inner block face 30.75 mm

Time Warp said:

The Norton (Atlas) Commando brake is 120 mm outside to outside and the centre of the hub is 58 from the non brake side outer side.

The Commando drum sliders are.
Brake side - Axle block width 49 mm - Slider centre to the inner block face 31.5 mm.

Off side - Axle block width 46 mm - Slider centre to the inner block face 30.75 mm

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Many thanks for those dimensions; they will help me immensely.

why mess with it ?

the TZ ' fontana ; was a popular fit . the Larger diamete axle may be more stable .

IF theres NO mudguard Lugs ? it may be a FORGED Manx item . not a CAST Road Machine part !

gotta picture of this horrable japanese brake . Jap bits came loose or fell off the Bonneville untill replaced by proper ones . Just as well it didnt have Jap Wheels .



Seriously , perhaps . SOME TWIT might have done it for GOOD REASON . dont ' personalise ' it if its a sorted running proposition , till youve GOT TO KNOW
was a Honda 750 CUSH DRIVE rear wheel on a Fastback Commando . in the year dot . wonder why ?? . seems he was ahead of the game , thru accident or design .

You could have TWO Honda wheels !

The Cush drive saves the Trans . Fink it frew . Its a ENGINEERING calculation type anaylisis . Front whell attachment being noot undermined .

Matt Spencer said:

Thanks for the reply, mate; although I’m not sure where you’re coming from with all this - I was merely asking for dimensions, so that when I buy a replacement slider, I buy the right one. I now feel reasonably confident that the correct item is pre ‘64.

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Matt Spencer said:

Regarding the current LH slider: this is actually a RH slider and therefore has no pinch bolt. It does have mudguard lugs.

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Both wheels have been built with valanced rims, which I gather was a popular thing to have done back in the ‘70s. The rear wheel has the original Norton brake in it. I’m not able to post an image of the Honda TLS, as I only have the basic privileges on here, but apparently it was off a CL 360 or similar. I don’t understand your references to Cush drives (I know what one is and what it does) or about a thicker axle (I’m sure the original one is quite up to the job. Replacing the Honda TLS at some point with a Norton item is largely a matter of ascetics, as far as I’m concerned. It’s a personal choice, as everything was back in the day when Tritons were built in peoples sheds; so, yes, I’m very much going to personalise it and make it mine - I’ve already acquired twin carburettors for it and the correct manifold (it only had one) and ditched the original down pipes for swept-back ones, as well as changing the timing cover to one with a tachometer drive and fitting a tachometer. 🏍

No Worries . . As long as the wheel wont fall off ! Someone had a CB 750 wheel on a non cush drive fastback .Rear .

I may have a spare slider… will check later.

jan nelder said:

I may have a spare slider… will check later.

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Thank you, Jan. I managed to pick up one up at Kempton auto jumble in serviceable condition. At some point it’s had a sleeve filled which I’ll have to find a way of removing, but there’s no cracks or welds. Ironically, someone up at Uttoxeter got in touch with a pair of NOS, after I’d already found this replacement. However, it couldn’t hurt, if you do have one that I can afford and you’re near enough to me. I’m in Langley, Berkshire. 🏍

jan nelder said:

I may have a spare slider… will check later.

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both the older ones I have are cracked and one has been partly rewelded badly, but is scrap. They are both 47.4/5mm wide. The later type I have, with slightly flattened main section, is 49.5 wide.

Ah, they’ll be the oval, beefed up ones.

You are always better-off with a disc front brake. Drum bakes are unreliable, because as the linings heat-up they change. Sometimes they fade, and at other times they can become sticky. Those Yamaha Fontana copies look great, but can be extremely dangerous.

Yeah, I’d tend to agree. I grew up on drum brakes, so I’m well aware of their perceived deficiencies, in relation to discs. That said, I never once had a problem back when I was a teenager. As to my Triton’s current Honda brake I’m planning on changing it for a Norton one. It’s mostly a matter of ascetics and I consider it prudent to ride within my stopping power - it’s a lesson one learns the hard way.