Crunchies on the drainplug %^^&*&(

comnoz · Sep 10, 2016

4000 mile trip coming up the end of the month. Pulled the drain plug and what did I see?

Not normal.

Time to see where it came from and if there is any other damage.

Pistons look good. They show the excess oil consumption.

Cam and lifters look great.

Here it is. Not too good -but easy to fix.

No oil leakage from crank seal and the belt looks perfect.

Guess I will do a little research and see if I can find some pistons that will have less leakdown and use a bit less oil before I put it back together....with stock valve adjusters.

CanukNortonNut · Sep 10, 2016

Jim
Which mushroom head rocker adjusters were you using? Did the bits of it score the bore of the lifter tunnel?
I don't like crunchies either.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

comnoz · Sep 10, 2016

CanukNortonNut said:
Jim
Which mushroom head rocker adjusters were you using? Did the bits of it score the bore of the lifter tunnel?
I don't like crunchies either.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

There are a few scratches. Not terminal.

I have found some hyper-eutectic pistons that look promising -and considerably longer. I will need to bush the pin holes.

If I can use the pistons, I will use a fresh barrel.

I will have to find out who made the mushroom adjusters.

pete.v · Sep 10, 2016

Seems we've had a few mushroom failures lately. Better have a look at mine.
Maybe not welcome news, but appreciated just the same.

Thank you, Jim.

CanukNortonNut · Sep 10, 2016

pete.v said:
Seems we've had a few mushroom failures lately. Better have a look at mine.
Maybe not welcome news, but appreciated just the same.

Thank you, Jim.

Yes Pete
That is why I asked. I have two types of mushroom tappets: One from Walridge which are US made with slotted flat screw driver adjustment, the other is from BCS which have a copper wash coating with socket head or Allen type 06-7546/B. I have the American type in my workhorse Interstate 850 with 19256 miles from the rebuild. I will look at them close when I pop the head.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

comnoz · Sep 10, 2016

CanukNortonNut said:
pete.v said:

Seems we've had a few mushroom failures lately. Better have a look at mine.
Maybe not welcome news, but appreciated just the same.

Thank you, Jim.

Click to expand...

Yes Pete
That is why I asked. I have two types of mushroom tappets: One from Walridge which are US made with slotted flat screw driver adjustment, the other is from BCS which have a copper wash coating with socket head or Allen type 06-7546/B. I have the American type in my workhorse Interstate 850 with 19256 miles from the rebuild. I will look at them close when I pop the head.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

Mine have the slotted head. They are not very old.

The adjusters I took out to install these had socket heads. They were in the bike for years. I recall having trouble finding 4 of them that would thread into the rocker. The thread was oversized on half of them. That was quite a few years ago.

MS850 · Sep 10, 2016

pete.v said:
Seems we've had a few mushroom failures lately. Better have a look at mine.
Maybe not welcome news, but appreciated just the same.

Thank you, Jim.

this is with about 2000 miles, dont remember where I got them.

CanukNortonNut · Sep 10, 2016

Mark,
What is the other end look like? what type of adjuster? square, slot or allen type.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

CanukNortonNut · Sep 10, 2016

Here are the two types of Mushroom head adjusters that I have. My spares bin.

I like the copper washed type from BCS as they are slightly thicker :roll: at the mushroom. I looked to see with a loupe as to how sharp the radius is for a stress riser to be present with the American type. There is a slight radius but is it enough? Looking at Jim's, It looks like it broke at the termination point of the shaft undercut.
I don't know but it is food for thought.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

MS850 · Sep 10, 2016

MS850 said:
pete.v said:

Seems we've had a few mushroom failures lately. Better have a look at mine.
Maybe not welcome news, but appreciated just the same.

Thank you, Jim.

Click to expand...

this is with about 2000 miles, dont remember where I got them.

The adjuster is slotted, valve is fine

DogT · Sep 10, 2016

I got the mushroom head adjusters from Walridge, pretty sure but I've got the bill, at the instigation of Leo Geoff during my rebuild. I had one that wouldn't thread into the rocker, I bought a new (used) rocker arm and it fit that one. I haven't looked at my adjusters, but I only have maybe 1500 miles on them and I put them on back in 08 or so. Interesting.

NKN · Sep 11, 2016

I believe you took off pin's circlip? Because from here it looks like the pin rubbed a little against the barrel.

comnoz · Sep 11, 2016

NKN said:
I believe you took off pin's circlip? Because from here it looks like the pin rubbed a little against the barrel.

There are no circlips. Those are aluminum buttons that locate the pin. Jim

CanukNortonNut · Sep 11, 2016

Jim
What cam profile are you running in your test mule?
modified 12A (oil fed lifters)? Radius on the lifters?
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

comnoz · Sep 11, 2016

CanukNortonNut said:
Jim
What cam profile are you running in your test mule?
modified 12A (oil fed lifters)? Radius on the lifters?
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

12a grind cam and 4 inch radius lifters. It's the best setup I have found for the street and short track RR use.

My cam is rifle drilled for oil to the lobes. Probably overkill.

Deets55 · Sep 11, 2016

Jim,

Have you ever tried drilling small holes in the con rods facing forward to get an oil stream on the cams. Similar the the side holes on stock rods except in a different direction?

Pete

comnoz · Sep 11, 2016

Deets55 said:
Jim,

Have you ever tried drilling small holes in the con rods facing forward to get an oil stream on the cams. Similar the the side holes on stock rods except in a different direction?

Pete

I have not drilled Carrillo con rods but I have machined half moon reliefs in the side thrust area of the rod which should provide similar results.
I can't say if it helped anything.

NKN · Sep 12, 2016

First I should apologize because my English is not that good... Would rather go in French :roll:

Since how many miles did you pull off the barrels? What is the brand of your pistons? And rings? Carrillo rods are stock length?

And how do you explain that rubbed part on the piston's crown? Misalignment? Between what and what? Do you have some on the other piston? On the same place?

Asking those question because I'll soon be doing the same job on mine...

comnoz · Sep 12, 2016

NKN said:
First I should apologize because my English is not that good... Would rather go in French :roll:

Since how many miles did you pull off the barrels? What is the brand of your pistons? And rings? Carrillo rods are stock length?

>>I put the engine together with those pistons somewhere between 45 and 50 thousand miles ago. I built the engine from old roadracing spares as an experimental unit.

The rods are longer than stock and have a smaller big end to hold a Hyundai car bearing. They use an 18mm pin.

The pistons are custom built JE pistons that I had made up around 20 years ago. They were designed for racing use only. They also gave me some problems with excessive rocking and ring seal back when I used pistons from the same batch in my racebike.

I pulled the top end last summer and installed some high tech rings from Total Seal to see if I could cut the oil consumption -but it made no difference.

The mark you have circled on the piston does not show contact but it is just lacking any carbon buildup. There is a similar clean area on the other side of the RH piston. I'm not sure why.

The wear pattern on the pistons indicate the piston was square in the bore.

There is signs of contact on the rear of the piston above the top ring. There is also wear in the bore that corresponds with this contact. Jim <<

Danno · Sep 12, 2016

Has anyone ever put a windage or catch tray below the camshaft to retain oil, or is there enough oil whirling around the crankcase that it's not necessary?