installing a sealed double row bearing in a brake drum

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The usual problem...the new sealed double row bearing is .058 longer than the original. The method OB used was to bore the hub a little deeper. It seems to me that part # 06-2070, stepped bearing spacer, could be put in a lathe and the larger OD be trimmed by .058 and everything would be cozy. Am I missing something?
 
I see that is the rear not the front, they bore the hub due to the circlip groove position.

(There is more to it than than that also)
 
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I forgot to mention that I'm talking about the rear wheel / brake drum. So please tell me who stocks the correct width sealed bearing..it's not A/N.
 
I forgot to mention that I'm talking about the rear wheel / brake drum. So please tell me who stocks the correct width sealed bearing..it's not A/N.
Waldridge offered one a couple years ago. Probably still do.
 
I forgot to mention that I'm talking about the rear wheel / brake drum. So please tell me who stocks the correct width sealed bearing..it's not A/N.
Go to a bearing supply shop. The drum takes a 4203 2RS. Which is a 17 X 40 X 16 Double Row Deep Groove Ball. Drop in replacement, no mods.
 
AN list two single row bearings for that application. Anyone know why ??
The AN bearing is the double-row 4203, item 48.

Are you perhaps looking at the (x2) '71-'74 hub bearings, items 26?
 
Quite right LAB, my error !

(AN are currently out of stock of the double row bearing however)
 
I forgot to mention that I'm talking about the rear wheel / brake drum. So please tell me who stocks the correct width sealed bearing..it's not A/N.
Go to a bearing supply shop. The drum takes a 4203 2RS. Which is a 17 X 40 X 16 Double Row Deep Groove Ball. Drop in replacement, no mods.
I got mine at Kaman Bearing. I was pleased to see that the bearing was made in Japan.
 
Yes but easily available elsewhere (and cheaper!).

I still see no pressing need to replace the open bearing and felt with a sealed 'no-name' bearing.:)
If the bearing is lightly packed with the correct grease....I use hi temp wheel bearing grease....and new felts and washers are used it would probably work. However the wheels I'm working on now (front) had the shoes and drum saturated in grease....stuff that liquified with heat. The double row bearing needed to be pulled out, flushed of all the old grease and repacked. It's easier and safer to install a sealed bearing.
Thanks for all the bearing info.
 
The 4203 2RS bearing was hard to find some years ago here (All I could get was the single row bearings double sealed) so used a readily available 5203 2RS in a known quality brand.
I did get a two wheel set of those no name 2RS bearings (4203 etc) bearings but could not bring myself to use them in a quality 'motor like a Commando, they are probably still rusting away on a shelf somewhere if they didn't go in the bin.

The wider 5203 2RS is probably worth the effort in the front hub (and easy to do) but debatable in the rear unless you can do the machining to a high standard (Either bore or circlip groove modification with the appropriate tooling)

I can't imagine any good reason to replace the wheel bearings in general with non sealed items let alone things like felts and re staking the felt retainers.
Given the general age of the bikes and owners (based on the poll) , that job might only happen once in a bikes life time.
 
I made a run down to the city late this afternoon and passing close to a large national bearing and seal outlet asked about 4203 2RS bearings, no surprise nothing in the country in their stores.
The dude is going to look into for me.
Which is why I went to readily available (anywhere) 5203 2RS bearings.
 
Usual problem? Can't understand why you want to do that. What evidence do you have that the single row is inadequate?
Sounds like looking for a solution where there ain't no problem!
Cheers
 
What is the internal clearance in a single row wheel bearing and how much ability does it have to self-align when it is pulled up hard against the shoulder in a hub ? Is it different from a double-row bearing ? In pre-unit Triumph twins there are two types of crankcase timing side bearings - large and small. For the small ones, you can buy a double row bearing - but would you use one, if you think about crank flex ?
 
If the bores which hold the wheel bearings are slightly out of alignment, you might need single row bearings which can self-align to some extent. Otherwise you might cause the housing to wear and become enlarged. Double-row bearings might last longer in hubs which are machined perfectly. But most probably are not.
 
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