I doubt very much that you would be able to open it and service the contacts. They are typically a sealed unit.
That is a common trick in the automotive world. When I was young and poor, we did something similar. The contact plate is a round copper disc. It had a hole in the center with a shaft and spring to align it. We would drill out the rivets [your starter contacter is held together with rivets] Remove the circlip on the shaft, remove the copper disc and flip it over. No filing needed. File down the contact surface on the copper stud that the cable attaches to. Reassemble, & bolt/rivet it back together. You can use screws & nuts, blind [aka Pop] rivets or solid rivets. If you would like to use solid rivets [for a more original look] I can supply some for free. I've got hundreds left over from my Vans RV-8A project. You have little to lose by taking it apart. Consider it an educational experience.
Take that hideous thing back!!! I was going to suggest the item linked below earlier. It's used on Ford Crown Victorias and Mercury Grand Marquis. Those are negative ground vehicles, but that might not matter. This looks more like the stock item. Besides, this design superseded that ugly 1960s turd.
I'll talk to Mike. $42 sounds better than the e-bay prices or U.K. prices once you add in shipping , taxes .
I did some Google searching. I learned that the Norton P/N 06-5508 Starter Solenoid Switch is Lucas P/N 76766, mentioned above. Lucas has since superseded that P/N. The Durite part is an aftermarket version of the Lucas replacement. The Lucas P/N for this replacement is P/N SRB325. I also found out that the Mk III original starter solenoid switch was used on Triumph TR-250s, TR-5s and early TR-6s. With that info, at least you can walk into an auto parts vendor, give them a car model and get a replacement locally.This is what I replaced OE with:
Durite Solenoid Starter Replaces Lucas 76766 - 12v for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Durite Solenoid Starter Replaces Lucas 76766 - 12v at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!www.ebay.co.uk
Good memory. It was used in both the Austin Mini and the Mini Cooper. More cars it was used in: Listed as fitting Triumph TR 250, TR5,TR6 (early),TR6 PI (69-75), Spitfire Mk IIII (69-70),GT6 MK II (69-70), Midget MK III 1300 (69-74), Sprite MK IV (69),TVR 3000M (72-80),TVR 3000S & Turbo (79-80)Lotus Elan +2,2S (69-70), Lotus Elan S4 (69-70), Austin Mini (75-76), Jag XJ6 2.8 (69-73) Mini Coopers (69-70).
Ordered in 2 .
Pop rivets? Some of the more moden ones don't have any rivets to drill out?That is a common trick in the automotive world. When I was young and poor, we did something similar. The contact plate is a round copper disc. It had a hole in the center with a shaft and spring to align it. We would drill out the rivets [your starter contacter is held together with rivets] Remove the circlip on the shaft, remove the copper disc and flip it over. No filing needed. File down the contact surface on the copper stud that the cable attaches to. Reassemble, & bolt/rivet it back together. You can use screws & nuts, blind [aka Pop] rivets or solid rivets. If you would like to use solid rivets [for a more original look] I can supply some for free. I've got hundreds left over from my Vans RV-8A project. You have little to lose by taking it apart. Consider it an educational experience.
Charlie K
The Ford "fender mount" solenoids used in the 1980s and 1990s do. The original Mk III Lucas solenoids also use rivets.
Been back on the road for a while now after digging through all my spares. Ordered in 2 of the Amazon ones which arrived fast. Walridge has a later genuine unit coming in for me too. No rivets involved , small bolts n' nuts.
