Single to Dual Amal Setup

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Tornado

Tornado

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I'm finally moving over to two carbs to see what I've been missing. Using the oem 932s that the bike came with, but renewed jets, needles, seals.

One bowl banjo is metal and seals well with gaskets. Other is plastic and I'm unsure if gasket needed between banjo and bowl, as I do have the plastic screen filter there also.

Got the choke blanking screws to eliminate choke cabling.
I'm following Bushman tuning guide for initial settings.

Wish me luck!
 
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Good luck with it
Make sure any tuning you do is only on a fully warmed up engine
And if you a using a one into two cable setup I would cable tie (zip tie) the splitter box to the frame
If you have balance gauges use them
If not use two rods etc
The most critical point with balancing those carbs is the transition from idle stops to cable off the twist grip as you lift the slides
 
Thx. No balance gauges. I do have a Colortune I might try out one day.

One into two cable splitter with plastic junction box,,, all new pieces.
 
Tornado said:
One bowl banjo is metal and seals well with gaskets. Other is plastic and I'm unsure if gasket needed between banjo and bowl, as I do have the plastic screen filter there also.
Click to expand...

Metal banjos have one (usually red) fibre washer between the banjo and the bolt head. The banjo filter is the other seal.
Single to Dual Amal Setup

(The other red fibre washer often included in rebuild kits is for alcohol fuel where the plastic banjo filter isn't used)

Plastic banjos don't require either fibre washer and why fibre washers aren't normally listed in the parts books.
 
L.A.B. said:
Metal banjos have one (usually red) fibre washer between the banjo and the bolt head. The banjo filter is the other seal.
Single to Dual Amal Setup

(The other red fibre washer often included in rebuild kits is for alcohol fuel where the plastic banjo filter isn't used)

Plastic banjos don't require either fibre washer and why fibre washers aren't normally listed in the parts books.
Click to expand...
Thx.

My gasket kits came with both red and a green large seals. To clarify, the green goes on the bowl drain screw (plastic on my carbs) and the small red goes on metal banjo bolt, nothing for banjo (both metal and plastic types) to bowl if I have the plastic filters there?
 
Tornado said:
My gasket kits came with both red and a green large seals. To clarify, the green goes on the bowl drain screw (plastic on my carbs) and the small red goes on metal banjo bolt, nothing for banjo (both metal and plastic types) to bowl if I have the plastic filters there?
Click to expand...

Correct, as some Amal gasket kits include the red 14/175 'alcohol' washer, seen in the link below (inside the float bowl gasket).

https://www.classicbritishspares.co...it-622-208-626-928-930-932-triumph-bsa-norton
 
'Funny coincidence; I'm going the same route. After running for a few years with a single Mikuni, I'm also curious to how well it'll run with new slides in the old 932 bodies. I originally swapped because of decaying idle stability issues, but, with new tight (hopefully) slides and the Pazon Altair ignition, I'm ready to take the plunge. Keep us posted, please!
 
Did you fit the harder anodized slides from Wassel or the Premiers? ThouGht about doing so as eurojam has the Wassel evolution slides at $22 USD each. That about same as standard amal slide price. Did you renew all jets and needles? Found my bike idled bad, stalling off idle until I replaced needle jet and needle while on single setup. The duals will have fresh jets/needles for good measure.
 
Dual amals are mounted. What a pain doing the Allen bolts. I had manifold already on carbs first. Found only a 7mm wobble Allen key would work as proper 1/4" key I have is not wobble type. I think a shorter/ground down key might also work. Since I'd already fitted cables, then learned splitter had to come off to pass short cables through the headsteady brackets. Splitter ends up just rearward of front tank mount flanges.
Suggestions for grip cable routing?
 
Grouund down key is normal approach.

I run my cable on L side and then around the front of the headstock.

Made the same mistake with the splitter first time around way back when... :D
 
Tornado said:
What a pain doing the Allen bolts.
Click to expand...

Only one should be difficult.


Tornado said:
I had manifold already on carbs first. Found only a 7mm wobble Allen key would work as proper 1/4" key I have is not wobble type. I think a shorter/ground down key might also work.
Click to expand...

It's a Commando special tool, but note the original 'bolts' were 5/16" Whitworth and take a 7/32" Allen key.

If yours take 1/4" then they are UNC replacements.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/sho...-9869-special-length-to-suit-inlet-manifolds-



Tornado said:
Since I'd already fitted cables, then learned splitter had to come off to pass short cables through the headsteady brackets.
Click to expand...

I personally wouldn't have routed the throttle (or choke) cables through the head steady.
 
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Tornado said:
I'm finally moving over to two carbs to see what I've been missing. Using the oem 932s that the bike came with, but renewed jets, needles, seals.

One bowl banjo is metal and seals well with gaskets. Other is plastic and I'm unsure if gasket needed between banjo and bowl, as I do have the plastic screen filter there also.

Got the choke blanking screws to eliminate choke cabling.
I'm following Bushman tuning guide for initial settings.

Wish me luck!
Click to expand...

Did you win second prize in a raffle?
 
OK new issue:

With grip to splitter adjuster piece fully undone save for half a turn and the carb top adjusters fully unwound, I'm getting a good 3/8" slack with grip fully rotated to throttle closed position. This means rotating roughly 20 to 30 degrees before any tension on cables. Are my cables wrong? My supplier is usually good with these details. What are correct dimensions so I can confirm?
 
Doesnt sound right. That said, my new a couple years ago Venhill throttle cable was a bit more shy on its length than I would have liked, and is almost fully out.
 
Shave a 1/4" on every sleeve length and in a couple hundred cables you get one more manufactured free!
 
Tornado said:
OK new issue:

With grip to splitter adjuster piece fully undone save for half a turn and the carb top adjusters fully unwound, I'm getting a good 3/8" slack with grip fully rotated to throttle closed position. This means rotating roughly 20 to 30 degrees before any tension on cables. Are my cables wrong? My supplier is usually good with these details. What are correct dimensions so I can confirm?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you need to shorten up the cable by moving one of the nipples, either at the splitter, or at the throttle.

I would rest each slide in turn, on the throttle stop screw, then while holding a finger on the slide to prevent it moving, adjust the carb adjuster until you get barely perceptible play when you push and tug on the cable sheath at the carb end. If this requires turning the adjuster fully out of the carb top, then the carb to splitter cable needs shortening.

After getting the excessive play out of both carb to splitter cables, then work your way back to the throttle.

Slick
 
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