Forks (2007)

[Jason Curtiss]

I've always used ATF fluid in the forks of all my bikes. It seems to work well and it's inexpensive.

 

[debby]

There may be some disagreement on this, I take it(?).

Ask ten Norton owners, get ten different answers! :lol:

20 wt fork oil works for me...

Debby
72 750 Roadster
74 850 Interstate project bike

 

[Jason Curtiss]

Heavier weight oil such as 30w may cause the forks to “pack” when going over a series of small bumps.

 

[Coco]

Cool.

Report back once everything is finished.

It's a deal. And I hope the progress on your bike is going well.

Was just noticing in the Tech Digest (just finally found it.... I'd misplaced the thing), a section entitled Front Fork Lubricants. It recommends 150cc per fork of a 30W; it lists the factory recommendations, but then goes on to say that they won't work nearly as well as modern fork oils such as Bel Ray or Kal-Gard 30W. It goes on to say that "20W can cause topping or bottoming in warm climates."

There may be some disagreement on this, I take it(?).

w/

I'm going to use 20W as well. I bought a bottle of Motul fork oil, but I suspect all brands would probably offer similar performance. I will be putting a set of progressive springs in as well (just as you did Wrench) so that should really improve things.

I was actually quite surprised about the stock fork performance but with the new internals, everything should improve. I hope.

 

[cash]

I've used ATF roughly 20w it gave a comfortable ride but would get out of control over our rough roads at times. I now use 10/30 I reckon its a good comprimise.

Cash

 

[fastback]

I went through similar experiences with my forks - new stanctions, damper rods, both bushes, chromed the triple trees, new fork seals, 20 wt bell ray fork oil - the seals barely lasted 2 seasons - not sure why - maybe it was the homemade gaskets (yes I used gasket paper..)

I use a vice and pipe wrench but I wrap the nut in old inner tube as a cushion, I have the long chrome shrouds and use gaiters.
You can just see them in the photo.

Mine are on the bench awaiting reassebly with new seals, paper washer and fresh oil.
See you on the road!
Fstbk
ps - rechroming the triples was much cheaper than new (and quite sharp looking) - just make sure threads and bearing seats are well masked off.

 

[Coco]

I got a quote for a triple tree chrome for about $125 Canadian. I figure that is not too bad.

What is part #7 in the picture above? I don't think I have that in my rebuild parts box.

The suggestion about using an old inner tube is genious. Rubber is good and grippy. :wink:

I recall my days of being a bicycle wrencher using old inner tube for various fixes.

Fastback, those polished lowers look purdy.

 

[L.A.B.]

What is part #7 in the picture above? I don't think I have that in my rebuild parts box.

Items marked as 7 and 3 (and the two identical parts shown in the left of the photo) are the Covenant damper conversion kit and are not original parts.

 

[wrench]

I've always used ATF fluid in the forks of all my bikes. It seems to work well and it's inexpensive.

That may have been what was in my right fork, but what the heck was the green sludge in my left? :shock:

Cheers--

w/

 

[wrench]

Ask ten Norton owners, get ten different answers! :lol:


Debby
72 750 Roadster
74 850 Interstate project bike

I figured(!)... Part of the fun, I guess , and partially why I brought it up. Was just surprised to see what the Tech Digest had to say about it....

w/

 

[wrench]

ps - rechroming the triples was much cheaper than new (and quite sharp looking) - just make sure threads and bearing seats are well masked off.

NICE pictures fastback. If I can get a price like Coco on rechroming, I may just do that. I'll try to post pictures of their current condition later tonight.

L.A.B. mentions the Covenant Damper Conversion.... I've read something about that (maybe on this list a few months ago). Recommended? Or not that a big a difference?

w/

 

[wrench]

I knew I'd bookmarked some essay or other regarding the forks. Found this one I saved a couple months ago. Need to re-read it, actually, now that I'm in the thick of it.

http://www.inoanorton.com/Articles/Roadholder.html

Here's my trees (I post links to images only because they are so revolutionary in appearance, mind boggling, in fact).

http://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... okekh9.jpg
http://img454.imageshack.us/my.php?image=treeszo2.jpg
http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trees2np8.jpg

Okay, so it's boring stuff. But I'm interested in ideas on how to treat them. Most likely have them de-chromed and decide whether to re-chrome or just powder coat.

They need some help, for sure.

But good news. My bike is almost all together now. Should be rifling down some lonely country PA roads by this evening.

http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... tuscm1.jpg

Not.

Haven't even cut the wire off yet. Geez. Not sure when or where I signed on, but one thing I do know, I did sign on.

w/

 

[Coco]

ps - rechroming the triples was much cheaper than new (and quite sharp looking) - just make sure threads and bearing seats are well masked off.

NICE pictures fastback. If I can get a price like Coco on rechroming, I may just do that. I'll try to post pictures of their current condition later tonight.

L.A.B. mentions the Covenant Damper Conversion.... I've read something about that (maybe on this list a few months ago). Recommended? Or not that a big a difference?

w/

Here is where I'm sending my triple trees:

Alberta Plating - (403) 265-4947.

It's probably not worth it for you to send them up to Calgary but other Canadians might be interested in a chroming facility and this one might be near them.

Wrench, that pic of your bike on that jack look strangely familiar. I still have my forks on but it looks like our two little cash-suckers are in the same state.

 

[Coco]

What is part #7 in the picture above? I don't think I have that in my rebuild parts box.

Items marked as 7 and 3 (and the two identical parts shown in the left of the photo) are the Covenant damper conversion kit and are not original parts.

Ok. I have those with my new damper rods then. I bought new ones from Clubman Racing but havn't really taken a good look at them yet. Thanks.

 

[wrench]

Here is where I'm sending my triple trees:

Alberta Plating - (403) 265-4947.

It's probably not worth it for you to send them up to Calgary but other Canadians might be interested in a chroming facility and this one might be near them.

I took my trees to the chromer just outside of town here (has a great reputation, apparently, but unfortuntely the price I was quoted on the phone changed dramatically once I brought them in. The lady behind the counter quoted me $230 to do the yokes, and an additional $20 each for the handlebar clamps. Seemed a bit out of line to me, so I'm just having them de-chromed for now (total cost for that procedure was $30.00).

Wrench, that pic of your bike on that jack look strangely familiar. I still have my forks on but it looks like our two little cash-suckers are in the same state.

Yes, and now it has all the wire off of it, the outer chaincase and outer gearbox cover are off, and the timing cover is next! "Cash-sucker" is the right description indeed.

Cheers--

wrench

 

[F_Magna]

I've been modifying the front dampers along the lines suggested, but I suspect that the springs bind before the compression end stop is reached

Anyone out there know the free and compressed length of the springs?

May have to measure it by experiment!

chris

 

[cash]

Chris,
Free length 475mm, number of coils roughly 75, wire thickness 4.6mm I think, (can't read my old notes). I fitted progressive springs some 10 years ago and wouldn't go back. No chance of coil binding it could have been thinner wire or less coils, sorry I've forgot.

If you do fit the Covenant kit ensure that "floating bush" doesn't float. It should be fixed below the slider bush to cover the holes in the stanchion at full extension to provide the hydraulic stop. If the bush is allowed to move the fork action becomes stiff and erratic. Perhaps this explains why some use and prefer thin fork oil?
Cash

 

[F_Magna]

Thanks for that - it gives about 130mm of spring travel -
Being a cheapskate I turned the flanges off the old top bushes & put them in below new ones with a spot of locktite green ( I may live to regret that)
New measured travel of damper body is 120mm, so not a lot of room for error in placing the top of spring. As originally built it must have used the damper valve as the extension stop & spring binding as the compression.
Iv'e adjusted the nut at the top of the spring to about 4mm below the top of damper rod & with it all put together should just about be OK. Would be easier with an extra 25mm of damping rod though.
See how it works in a week or two when I've sorted the wheels & tyres out!
chris

 

[cash]

I reckon Norton reduced the fork stroke the cheapest way they could to ensure enough support would be provided for the slider, ie don't let the bushes get too close together.
Take care.
Cash

 

[scim77]

Cash-I was interested in your note about the floating sleeve in the Covenant conversion. Am I correct in thinking that you you recommend loctiting or pinning this bush in an upermost position, rather than letting it fall down to the bottom of the slider leg, which it would otherwise do?
In it's natural bottom position it must be shielding the taper somewhat, thereby giving the harder ride you mentioned. It could also dither about with suspension movement giving varying degrees of damping resistance. But I thought the function of this kit was to provide a hydraulic bump stop at full compression and extension. Would it still do this if the floating bush was fixed higher up? Why does RGM etc make no mention of this, I wonder. It is a while since I had mine apart and I cannot fully recall how it all fits together.
Greg (Norbsa) has done most work on front forks and I know he is not keen on the Covenant kit. His threads are worth following for anyone interested in fork mods.