Wiring diagram - '73 750

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Messages
1,967
Country flag
Two electrical issues arose lately -

First, the red ignition light went out but the bike still runs, bulb good, there is power to the bulb, curiously to the outside "ground" side but the circuit fails at the center internal terminal - the white/brown wire. Got it working again by tapping in to a red "ground" under the tank. That's not the right way to do it of course, hence this post.

Second, I had intemittent ignition cut out on the freeway last week. Trispark installed a year or so ago, faultless so far, no reason to suspect that it is the problem. Yesterday, while working through the red ignition light problem, I went through the loom, checking for worn/chaffed spots and replaced several female connectors that had split/cracked females or were just loose. No cut out so far but only a quick test ride, not enough time on it to tell. Any other ideas?

My shop manual dates back to my old 1971 Commando and it is inadequate since it shows an ampmeter that I don't have, no turn signals that my loom does have, and the color codes are different too. For instance, the ignition light wire, white/brown is not on the 1971 diagram.

So, is there an online source for me to be able to print a 1973 750 wiring diagram?
 
xbacksideslider said:
First, the red ignition light went out but the bike still runs, bulb good, there is power to the bulb, curiously to the outside "ground" side but the circuit fails at the center internal terminal - the white/brown wire. Got it working again by tapping in to a red "ground" under the tank. That's not the right way to do it of course, hence this post.

The red light is a charge warning lamp, it isn't part of the ignition circuit.



xbacksideslider said:
My shop manual dates back to my old 1971 Commando and it is inadequate

So, is there an online source for me to be able to print a 1973 750 wiring diagram?

http://britmoto.com/manuals/Manuals/750_man.pdf third wiring diagram - section J (electrical)

technical-information-section-how-post-photos-t2357.html
 
Since the bulb illuminated when you provided a ground, the problem is in the warning light assimilator. These fragile units are prone to failure. This may be replaced with a "solid state" Mk3 unit or this one from AO services (http://www.aoservices.co.uk/data/assim.htm). Both will require slight rewiring.

You can also replace it with a solid state voltage monitor or low voltage switch with a little different rewiring.
 
Wow, thank you L.A.B. and Ron L; just great. What a site!

All ya got to do is ask a question and you get precise and accurate information.

Thanks again.
 
is this an assimilator?
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz67/xbacksideslider/Norton Assimilator/DSCN1561.jpg

If so, how do I test it?

And then, the 1973 wiring diagram does not appear to help me with how these terminals - E, WL, and WL - are connected, that is to which wires?

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz67/xbacksideslider/Norton Assimilator/DSCN1583.jpg

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz67/xbacksideslider/Norton Assimilator/DSCN1585.jpg

Sorry, I can't figure out how to attach a page consisting of a pdf file of the wiring diagram, as referenced in L.A.B.'s post above.
 
xbacksideslider said:
is this an assimilator?

Yes. (Lucas 3AW)

xbacksideslider said:
If so, how do I test it?

See manual Secton J8
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/support ... similators

If the warning lamp doesn't go out above idle then it's faulty or the alternator isn't charging, the metal can assimiator never was a particularly reliable unit even when new-so it's often worthwhile replacing it with a modern unit (see Ron L's previous post).

xbacksideslider said:
And then, the 1973 wiring diagram does not appear to help me with how these terminals - E, WL, and WL - are connected, that is to which wires?

E = Earth (ground, red)
WL = Warning lamp (white/brown [WN] wire to charge warning lamp)
Third terminal should be marked "AL" = Alternator (green/yellow [GY] to stator [GY])
 
John, also lost power to my trispark yesterday. Turned out it was ground wire not staying grounded.

Also, I would check your coil or coils connections, both their live feed and grounds.

It is also possible the two wires going down your front tube to the trispark could be old and getting fractured inside
 
What quickly killed my assimilator was having the spring hard up against the frame so vibration can get to it. My fault not Joe Lucas - before that it lasted a long time.

Go to Cool Cat Express at:

http://www.coolcatcorp.com/Merchant5/me ... gory_Code=.

These guys are a Jaguar parts house in Bedford NY and they sell the SS3AW, a solid state version of the Lucas 3AW assimilator which I have used with success. See many previous threads on this. It looks like they now have a positive ground version for $23.95. The regular version ($19.95) works if you switch the WL and E wires. That's what I have been using for the past 4 years or so. Was all set to build my own but this was so cheap.

Russ
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top