Thanks for chiming in on more Norton lore Frank. My P!! had a decent drum brake I got ok with it but it wouldn't lock up unless pretty slow or loose stuff and never had to use it enough to notice fade. Its pretty much centered of course and didn't feel any different or tend to drift than other bikes. P!! instilled lesion that Rear Rules The Roost in my world, but couldn't lean so didn't ever learn road racing on it. Had to wait till I was 50, now 61,
THE Graveling lesions spank me harshly when I give wrong answers to its challenges and hardest test was learning Gravity helps steer a bike more than fork action or traction. When going over 12 mph [on tarmac] In my world the front helps steer with counter steering which turns forks enough the bike can fall over by pivoting on the axle and all the other influences are secondary, ie: cone shaped chamber from lean on curve or tire profile, so less tire OD near edges than center so walks front around then rear follows, gyroscope push off, which diffidently helps initiate a lean but only during fork motion not after they stabilize [i'm actually bragging I'm a jerky pilot when the going get FAST] and the tire patch being off set from center line so bike falls oppositely, which is also helping, some what but mainly the counter steer is the tire twisting on its patch action that does the real deed, hehe, d/t the trail counter steer putting more tire out on the inside of the leaning turn. Stand next to bike with it vertical and turn fokrs lock to lock which watching the action wiggle to the rear of bike as a push over away from direction front tire is pointing.
Which returns to my initial post, I think there is a subtle bike drift away from the side the most weight is on fork, d/t the forks slightly turning=falling to caliper side then bike can pivot back/down on axle, so it leans opposite caliper and 'Then' rear lean causes bike to going where its now pointing. The distance caliper mass is mounted away from sliders the slower the osculation freq and of course same with more mass hanging off somewhat. Mass out in front tends to add to fork turning on its own while rear mass would tend to self center, d/t to positions of mass to gravity pulling on them.
Interesting ideal Alan on two types of brake pads, one works better when the other ain't, hm. What if ya put two different pads on the same rotor, hm.
Anywho I no long consider turning thrilling until the bike is falling over on its own d/t the power loads and lean angle, then one must stop the low side crash, hehe by catching it with the front tire now turned into the turn, in the dang direction ya are aiming for so seriously, tire side scrubbing action resistance against axle angle allows rear thrust to sort of cause bike to 'fall' upward on axle pivot, which can easy escalate into a hi side save - or just stay in that limbo wonder land of falling don't as fast as falling up equilibrium which needs acceleration forward vector enough to constantly equal both the falling down and flipping up G's, which feels exactly like bring two N or S poles together the harder closer you press em the hard they repel. Get too scared to stay on insane power or run out of balance thrust power, SPATT! Think what ya may but I got my answers the hard way and sticking to it or else I get a spanking by my Master,Teacher,Guru,Shiva,Satan ... till my bones show through ripped flesh and I go blind in raging tears of fear. I learned this on SuVee but dang ridgid on balloon tires splishes and spashes so many things together at once it clutters whats really doing what and when. It was not until compliant tri-linked Peel with pegs on slider that all the influences completelly separate out to be felt distinctly passing through w/o reasonating with anything else, uncanny secure predicable neutral, that one can then explore new phases of road orgasms. Throwing yourself hard as ya can right at the ground and missing should be easier than pie and funner too.
