Where are the Rob North Northtons?

Hi Ken, I am waiting for my VIP membership to be accepted so I can post some pictures and share some of the information I have.
Some how my Avatar now has a Singapore flag which is incorrect, I reside in Perth Australia, hoping I can change this once VIP is accepted.

I also have the original sales docket from Mick for my bike, although I bought it from the original owner it was like yours a complete kit complete un assembled and still with some packing tape and wrapping from new. Interesting my frame is numbered 151 sales docket 25/04/85 your frame number is 165 sales docket 07/12/85 I always wondered if the numbers were sequential for the 10 North Norton's however it is now confirmed they were not and followed the legacy Rob North numbering. Will post my sales docket when I can.

Also I recall a conversation with Mick back mid 90's and I recall he said the first two bikes had the Rob North signature oval tapered swing arm. His bike has oval swing arm as does the white one in post #15. All other I have seen have had the box swing arm.
I am wondering if the white RNN in original Post and the white RNN in post # 15 are the same ?? what do the followers think ??
If the two bikes are different and we count your bike Ken that is 8 accounted for, if the one in the Add from Weilrod Germany is not one of the above that could be #9.
Would be great to get some of the other owners engaged to share there known history to se if we can locate all 10 bikes. :)

Hi Roger,

we'll all look forward to more pictures and info. Chris (elefantrider) was kind enough to send me the pictures and data you sent to him, but I didn't feel comfortable posting them here without your permission. I really enjoyed the history you provided.

You could be correct about the white bike. Both bike pictures you mentioned have the same Ceriani style front end and AP front brake. But there are differences too, in the headlight, kick starter, footpegs, shift and brake linkage, and exhaust systems. Still, they could be the same bike, just with changes made to suit changing owners. It would be nice if someone familiar with one of them could set us straight.

Ken
 
Hi Ken apologies for late post I just finished reassembling the front end and have now attached a few more pxts of the RNN, a few have asked to see me sitting on the bike to gauge size and fit, so with out being a tosser I have included pictures with me in shot. I am 185 CM or 6 ft 1" fit is cozy at best, needs the back of the faring trimmed so can tuck knees in but will wait till have done some proper track time to get the seat positioned spot on, can go back about 1 1/2" By sliding the seal loop on the rear sub frame.
 

Attachments

  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_141923_resized.jpg
    234.1 KB · Views: 325
  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_141959_resized.jpg
    239.6 KB · Views: 308
  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_142004_resized.jpg
    225.2 KB · Views: 285
  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_142011_resized.jpg
    227.2 KB · Views: 293
  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_142034_resized.jpg
    227.7 KB · Views: 321
  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_142104_resized.jpg
    163.9 KB · Views: 320
And some of bike with out the knob on top :)
 

Attachments

  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_141841_resized.jpg
    266.5 KB · Views: 297
  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_141742_resized.jpg
    230.9 KB · Views: 313
  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_141816_resized.jpg
    219.2 KB · Views: 285
  • Where are the Rob North Northtons?
    20200516_141750_resized.jpg
    170.9 KB · Views: 314
Brilliant pictures Roger, thanks for posting.

As you know I’m particularly interested as I’m considering a similar build. I’m a similar height to you, although you seem to have done a better job of keeping at ‘racing weight’ than me ...:rolleyes:

Race leathers with armoured knees and elbows and knee sliders do add considerable bulk to a rider in those areas, so I reckon ‘cosy at best’ is about right!

If you move the seat back I suspect the footrests position will then require looking at.

Before moving the seat back and taking an angle grinder to the fairing (and screen), I’d consider the possibility of moving the entire fairing forward, and perhaps using some extended forward mounted clip ons, that way you’d get more room without exacerbating the footrests position issue AND keep the weight forward.
 
Last edited:
Roger, in another post you asked about silencing ideas, I’ve recently been playing with this topic so thought I’d share these pics and thoughts...
I have a ‘Brooking 850’ Maney replica pipe that’s way too noisy for U.K. track day use. I got some alloy stock, made a sketch and went to see my mate with a lathe. I also got some Supertrapp bits from ARH Customs here in the U.K.
The alloy end has a tapered ID to hold the perf tube in place and is made to take Supertrapp 4” discs. I’ve run it with an open end cap and 12 plates and it makes quite a difference to the noise and no noticeable difference to performance.
I’ve got 18 plates to play with in total. I don’t know how familiar you are with Supertrapp stuff but with an open end cap, MORE plates makes it quieter. With a closed end cap, LESS plates makes it quieter, but you get to a point where you’re hurting the pipes functionality, and performance. The trick is to establish the ideal point with min noise and max performance. I’ll have to wait until I can get on the dyno before trying to do that. So far I’m quite pleased and, fingers crossed, I’ll be able to keep the Dyno and the noise tester happy ...

3D44C24E-A890-42CE-B5F6-A8875D30023A.jpeg9B67B7CD-BFA4-4DBC-80DD-38E42C6A8D35.jpegA2A08122-9005-4A57-91BC-89DA2825E5A4.jpegA27CEBA2-A2D4-4229-B744-ECCF80FEFFF5.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Brilliant pictures Roger, thanks for posting.

As you know I’m particularly interested as I’m considering a similar build. I’m a similar height to you, although you seem to have done a better job of keeping at ‘racing weight’ than me ...:rolleyes:

Race leathers with armoured knees and elbows and knee sliders do add considerable bulk to a rider in those areas, so I reckon ‘cosy at best’ is about right!

If you move the seat back I suspect the footrests position will then require looking at.

Before moving the seat back and taking an angle grinder to the fairing (and screen), I’d consider the possibility of moving the entire fairing forward, and perhaps using some extended forward mounted clip ons, that way you’d get more room without exacerbating the footrests position issue AND keep the weight forward.
Brilliant pictures Roger, thanks for posting.

As you know I’m particularly interested as I’m considering a similar build. I’m a similar height to you, although you seem to have done a better job of keeping at ‘racing weight’ than me ...:rolleyes:

Race leathers with armoured knees and elbows and knee sliders do add considerable bulk to a rider in those areas, so I reckon ‘cosy at best’ is about right!

If you move the seat back I suspect the footrests position will then require looking at.

Before moving the seat back and taking an angle grinder to the fairing (and screen), I’d consider the possibility of moving the entire fairing forward, and perhaps using some extended forward mounted clip ons, that way you’d get more room without exacerbating the footrests position issue AND keep the weight forward.
Brilliant pictures Roger, thanks for posting.

As you know I’m particularly interested as I’m considering a similar build. I’m a similar height to you, although you seem to have done a better job of keeping at ‘racing weight’ than me ...:rolleyes:

Race leathers with armoured knees and elbows and knee sliders do add considerable bulk to a rider in those areas, so I reckon ‘cosy at best’ is about right!

If you move the seat back I suspect the footrests position will then require looking at.

Before moving the seat back and taking an angle grinder to the fairing (and screen), I’d consider the possibility of moving the entire fairing forward, and perhaps using some extended forward mounted clip ons, that way you’d get more room without exacerbating the footrests position issue AND keep the weight forward.
Hi Fast Eddi, tks for the reply, yeah have to agree with your comments, moving clip on's and faring fwd a couple of inches may well be an option, will look into this. This would be a relatively simple mod, could do a meeting without the faring and just a number board up front to see if the fwd set gets a handling improvement before relocating the faring. Moving pegs back seems counter productive as they actually feel well suited (to me at least) I do have long hip to knee displacement according to my physio which probably helps in this instant :)
WA Historic racing register is hoping for first track day end on June so all being well will update you more on this and give you feedback on the other question you asked off line about the feel compared to the Norrish Featherbed, which i reackon I can almost pen that reply now.... :)
 
Roger, I'm sorry to tell you I got nowhere in my quest to get in touch with Rob North.
sam
 
Roger, in another post you asked about silencing ideas, I’ve recently been playing with this topic so thought I’d share these pics and thoughts...
I have a ‘Brooking 850’ Maney replica pipe that’s way too noisy for U.K. track day use. I got some alloy stock, made a sketch and went to see my mate with a lathe. I also got some Supertrapp bits from ARH Customs here in the U.K.
The alloy end has a tapered ID to hold the perf tube in place and is made to take Supertrapp 4” discs. I’ve run it with an open end cap and 12 plates and it makes quite a difference to the noise and no noticeable difference to performance.
I’ve got 18 plates to play with in total. I don’t know how familiar you are with Supertrapp stuff but with an open end cap, MORE plates makes it quieter. With a closed end cap, LESS plates makes it quieter, but you get to a point where you’re hurting the pipes functionality, and performance. The trick is to establish the ideal point with min noise and max performance. I’ll have to wait until I can get on the dyno before trying to do that. So far I’m quite pleased and, fingers crossed, I’ll be able to keep the Dyno and the noise tester happy ...

View attachment 16278View attachment 16279View attachment 16280View attachment 16281
Tks Fast Eddie, looks Brill..... !! Again really interested in the dyno outcomes, heard mixed outcomes from various Supertrapp dyno tunes. Most are positive being very limited or no performance loss to increased mid and top end with Supertrapp add on's however I assume jetting to suit would square away most breathing issues experienced with fitting the add on, and to be honest I would doubt if many bikes would be tuned for maximum HP before adding Supertrapp add on so likely adding the Supertrapp and a good man on the dyno performance should be seen to increase, a racer and enthusiast like your self and many racer readers in the forum would be more qualified to comment.
I do look forward to any more on this topic.
 
Hi Ken
You mentioned this bike. I just found this on YouTube.
 
Cool bike, hilarious music! So '90s Euro...

The motors do seem quite high on these bikes, even for cornering clearance. Why is this?
 
Cool bike, hilarious music! So '90s Euro...

The motors do seem quite high on these bikes, even for cornering clearance. Why is this?
It's a Rob North trait, for some reason they still think that they are making frames for a triple!!!!
 
Just to be awkward , there was a ORIGINAL ' Works ' Two Cyl T120 Version . Dunno if this is it . " Gisborne " seems to rule that out . Seen pictures of it however .
Where are the Rob North Northtons?


then theres the ' Hi boy ' first frames , and second year ' low Boy ' designations .

Where are the Rob North Northtons?


So apparently theres a few varitions , in the original frames .
 
Back
Top