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Not sure why your worrying about breaking the plates free. They need to grip to start the bike. Surely the first time after you start it and pull the clutch they will be apart instantly if you're able to do it with the kickstarter.Considering that later Triumphs share engine and primary oil, engine oil is fine. With older Triumphs I used SAE 20 non-detergent oil when it was available or SAE 30 plain old dino oil without trouble. In a Commando today I use Castrol GTX Conventional 20W50 in the engine and primary and I make very sure to not overfill the primary.I do like the concept of non-Ford ATF in the primary as if there is a leak, it will look different than an engine leak, but I suspect that the chain won't last as long as it's supposed to be bathed in oil, not ATF.BTW, if everything is correct, 20W50 in the primary is 20W oil as it doesn't get anywhere near hot enough to thicken (at least not much).
Not sure why your worrying about breaking the plates free. They need to grip to start the bike. Surely the first time after you start it and pull the clutch they will be apart instantly if you're able to do it with the kickstarter.
Considering that later Triumphs share engine and primary oil, engine oil is fine. With older Triumphs I used SAE 20 non-detergent oil when it was available or SAE 30 plain old dino oil without trouble. In a Commando today I use Castrol GTX Conventional 20W50 in the engine and primary and I make very sure to not overfill the primary.
I do like the concept of non-Ford ATF in the primary as if there is a leak, it will look different than an engine leak, but I suspect that the chain won't last as long as it's supposed to be bathed in oil, not ATF.
BTW, if everything is correct, 20W50 in the primary is 20W oil as it doesn't get anywhere near hot enough to thicken (at least not much).
