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Removed the new and improved RGM clutch rod seal that backed out twice. As it turns out the clutch rod seal is not needed for a TTi gearbox. (Member verified, Thanks.) Gear oil does not migrate up into the bore through the mainshaft for the clutch rod like it did with my old P11 gearbox. I could have been putting too much oil in the AMC box though. The clutch rod in the TTi gearbox stays dry and needs to be lightly greased. In addition, I went back to using the OEM size nut and big lock washer for the hub, and torqued it down to 70 ft lbs. No skimpy circlip on a Manx mainshaft.Also got around to replacing a manual ball valve without an electrical shut off switch with one that has the shut off switch. No ignition when the valve is shut. Feked sells it. I know people here have made their own. I could have, but it was a lot easier to buy one already made. It looks better than anything I would have come up with. The electrical leads from the switch are connected (spliced into with bullet connectors) to the small dual coil + ground at the coil. It works.By the way my oil lines run under the gearbox and my stock oil pipe junction block is upside down and has the stock tubes shortened with some shade tree engineered add on pipe for the required pipe curves. It also works in that orientation and the engine is oiled as it should be.
Removed the new and improved RGM clutch rod seal that backed out twice. As it turns out the clutch rod seal is not needed for a TTi gearbox. (Member verified, Thanks.) Gear oil does not migrate up into the bore through the mainshaft for the clutch rod like it did with my old P11 gearbox. I could have been putting too much oil in the AMC box though. The clutch rod in the TTi gearbox stays dry and needs to be lightly greased. In addition, I went back to using the OEM size nut and big lock washer for the hub, and torqued it down to 70 ft lbs. No skimpy circlip on a Manx mainshaft.
Also got around to replacing a manual ball valve without an electrical shut off switch with one that has the shut off switch. No ignition when the valve is shut. Feked sells it. I know people here have made their own. I could have, but it was a lot easier to buy one already made. It looks better than anything I would have come up with. The electrical leads from the switch are connected (spliced into with bullet connectors) to the small dual coil + ground at the coil. It works.
By the way my oil lines run under the gearbox and my stock oil pipe junction block is upside down and has the stock tubes shortened with some shade tree engineered add on pipe for the required pipe curves. It also works in that orientation and the engine is oiled as it should be.
