wet sump valve

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Ken Normanton

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have a shut off valve (ball type) but the ball hole diameter is 1/4ins do you think this will give enough flaw rate to the pump. If not who does a ball type shut off valve with a larger diameter ball opening sold in UK or Ebay
Ken
 
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The bottlenecks are the holes in the crankcase where your oil junction block attaches (one of which is spigotted) as well as the holes in the oil pump to crankcase junction

wet sump valve

wet sump valve

I think that your 1/4” ball valve will be fine.

I just hope you have an electrical interlock that prevents the engine from running when the valve is closed, as the human mind can be forgetful!
 
I have just fitted the tap produced by these guy's https://www.kingpincomponents.co.uk They do a 3/8 tap with an ignition cutout. I would never risk a tap without a cut out as it only takes forgetting it once and you have destroyed your engine. I would also feel uncomforatable restricting the flow in any way so 3/8 would be the best option. Quality appearse good and the cut out is in place all the way until the valve is fully open.
 
@spannerhands we run that unit on the Dommie (magneto) and it’s perfect!

However, for electronic ignition bikes, I don’t like the fact that they are 100% reliant upon on micro relay being energised when the valve is closed to open the ignition circuit.
That‘s a really poor design and a major concern in terms of reliability - if the relay fails, you lose your interlock.

You could, however, easily use that unit to make your horn beep when the ignition switch is on, but the valve is closed.
No reliance on a very light duty relay coil in that scenario.


@cliffa you are right - I’ll shut up now.
 
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Hi gtiller. I worried about the same thing but the relay activates if the tap is left closed to cut the ignition, it is normally open. This means if it failed the ignition would stay on. I check mine occasionally by deliberately closing the tap with ignition on and you can hear the relay click.
 
I have had a simple on off valve in the oil line for the past 26 years.
One fine day some 15 years I took off from home forgetting to turn
the oil on. I got a good four miles when it dawned on me to check
and as I looked to see the valve in the off position I about had a heart
attack. I reached down and turned the oil, already dreading a huge
repair bill. Amazingly everything was just fine even until I did a total
motor refresh some 8 years ago.
 
Thanks for info on the oil tap , will be taking a good look at it , prolly go with the horn alert though .....
 
Take it off, most Norton's will only wet sump if left sitting for some time, as mine will if left more than 3 or 4 months, if it ridden regularly it don't wet sump, mine has never wet sumped in over 40 years of riding it as was a everyday rider till 6 years ago and is now semi retired and if its been sitting for sometime I just drain the sump the night before my outing as its part of any maintenance when you let them sit, but the oil pump will pump the oil back into the tank, anyway if you are going to let them sit for sometime wouldn't it be best to have the motor wet sump and have everything down below resting in oil, I put a tap on mine a few years ago even with the safety cord around my kicker when the tap was turned off, I didn't like the idea of turning the oil supply off and removed it after a few weeks, to easy to remove the drain plug and refill the oil tank than rebuilding a motor because the oil supply was turned off.
Just ride your bike more and it won't wet sump unless you have a major problem with your oil pump.

Ashley
 
When & if you go searching for these ball valves to install do a search for ' full port' valves. That way you won't have to worry over the restriction of the standard body. Instrumentation vendors usually carry these.
 
gtiller said:
The bottlenecks are the holes in the crankcase where your oil junction block attaches (one of which is spigotted) as well as the holes in the oil pump to crankcase junction

View attachment 16758

View attachment 16759

I think that your 1/4” ball valve will be fine.

I just hope you have an electrical interlock that prevents the engine from running when the valve is closed, as the human mind can be forgetful!
Click to expand...

That is one nice looking motor and oil block with the AN fittings. I'm guessing that is not OEM? I stopped paying attention to what Norton was doing with the motors sometime between 1974-1988, so I'm way out of touch with any design improvements.
 
Holland Norton do a decent check valve. I have run it for the last 5 plus years no problem, Combined with one of their oil pressure gauges so you can see whats going on (except on a dark night). Maybe a little more expensive than what you are planning, but very easy installation. Just cut down the stainless bracket on the gauge (its over long) drill a hole and fit in the handle bar clamp, everything else is made up to fit. If I knew what I was doing I would post a pic.
 
acadian said:
meh, I have faith that it won't end up there
Click to expand...
Well I rode just shy of 100 miles today. I stopped by a fellow ONO members home and had a chat while social distancing. He told me a story of how another ONO/CVMG member just recently blew up his Norton engine when he removed the line below the check valve to work on his engine then reinstalled it without filling up the line back up. In other words he created an air pocket that the suction side of the oil pump couldn't overcome. No oil gauge or idiot light or a quick check at the oil tank to see if oil was returning an voila, a $40 dollar quick fix for wet sumping just turned into a $4000.00 rebuild. and another one bites the dust. When will they learn?
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Well I rode just shy of 100 miles today. I stopped by a fellow ONO members home and had a chat while social distancing. He told me a story of how another ONO/CVMG member just recently blew up his Norton engine when he removed the line below the check valve to work on his engine then reinstalled it without filling up the line back up. In other words he created an air pocket that the suction side of the oil pump couldn't overcome. No oil gauge or idiot light or a quick check at the oil tank to see if oil was returning an voila, a $40 dollar quick fix for wet sumping just turned into a $4000.00 rebuild. and another one bites the dust. When will they learn?
Click to expand...

The pragmatic me says everyone is entitled to blow up their engines. That said, I wouldn't let one of these valves, ball or otherwise, within 100' of my bike. But that's just me.

When will we see you south of Barrie again CNN?
 
My thoughts as well on check valves. Kind of like Tesla autopilot's...don't work all the time. I do like his rockets.
I am south of Barrie. My stomping grounds are Hamilton/Grimsby Ontario.
Cheers.
 
I wet sump but it takes way over a month to build up enough to become a concern. The valve, though convenient, doesn't warrant the risks involved to a daydreaming old fart like myself anyway.
 
Always have used check valves. Never an issue. Also have always had the blinking idiot light. My 750‘S pump enough oil for a small block chev.
 
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