Wages of sin no doubt...

Status
Not open for further replies.
Do you run an air cleaner ? A while back there was a half inch wide gap under the seat on my Seeley 850. A stone came off the back tyre and went through there , then straight down a bell-mouth. I only knew it was in the carb, because the motor would not start. It was holding one of the slides up off it's stop. I usually start the motor with the throttles closed, and it usually starts immediately.
 
Last edited:
Well it is Paul Harvey Time: "And now, for the rest of the story".
Took the offending head and had the seat dressed with a stone. All but a tiny amount of pitting remained. My man's valve grinder crapped out so we repaired to the lathe and cut the valve face down to only the smallet indication of a pit remained in
the centre of the seat area. Head tested on a clever home made vacuum rig, no leak at all.
Returned to the FBO and carefully lapped in all the other valves simply to assure that I wasn't missing anything. Assembled head and implanted on bike. Hat tip to Maylar for the foam and string routine. It really did go in easily.
Torqued it all down using ARP poop. Used torque wench :) However the question remained how much, if any, to reduce the factory call out. Having pulled the head studs out of my Fullauto head with the greatest of ease, I am once burned twice learned.
Went for 20% less. And even that is scary when you are pulling down on those studs. This is a RH10 head and I had JC put in helicoils some years ago. I should have gone with his bullet proof inserts but not sure if he was offering that then.
Started first kick. Ran it until it got hot. Tomorrow I'll retorque. Ride out will be when the WX allows.
To be continued....
 

Attachments

  • Wages of sin no doubt...
    valve_seat_D38A6213.jpg
    1,018.7 KB · Views: 103
  • Wages of sin no doubt...
    valve_seat_divot_after_grinding_deail_D38A6301.jpg
    421.7 KB · Views: 92
  • Wages of sin no doubt...
    valve_divot_sm_D38A6230.jpg
    258.2 KB · Views: 112
In addition to the previous, I had a go at opening up the casting flash between the cylinders and added the Ludwig Hole as well.
It would seem that it cannot hurt.
 

Attachments

  • Wages of sin no doubt...
    new_air_hole_Norton_D38A6313.jpg
    343.2 KB · Views: 110
  • Wages of sin no doubt...
    Increased_airflow_Norton_sm_D38A6312.jpg
    167.2 KB · Views: 107
Last edited:
Well it is Paul Harvey Time: "And now, for the rest of the story".
Took the offending head and had the seat dressed with a stone. All but a tiny amount of pitting remained. My man's valve grinder crapped out so we repaired to the lathe and cut the valve face down to only the smallet indication of a pit remained in
the centre of the seat area. Head tested on a clever home made vacuum rig, no leak at all.
Returned to the FBO and carefully lapped in all the other valves simply to assure that I wasn't missing anything. Assembled head and implanted on bike. Hat tip to Maylar for the foam and string routine. It really did go in easily.
Torqued it all down using ARP poop. Used torque wench :) However the question remained how much, if any, to reduce the factory call out. Having pulled the head studs out of my Fullauto head with the greatest of ease, I am once burned twice learned.
Went for 20% less. And even that is scary when you are pulling down on those studs. This is a RH10 head and I had JC put in helicoils some years ago. I should have gone with his bullet proof inserts but not sure if he was offering that then.
Started first kick. Ran it until it got hot. Tomorrow I'll retorque. Ride out will be when the WX allows.
To be continued....
Can anyone show a link to Maylar's foam and string routine for the head installation please. Thanks...
 
Can anyone show a link to Maylar's foam and string routine for the head installation please. Thanks...
There's no link. I don't think I have a picture of it. Simple enough, you tie a piece of twine around 2 foam rubber blocks and stuff them into the head to keep the pushrods in place. Then once you have the head positioned with the pushrods in the cylinders, yank the foam blocks out and let the pushrods fall into the tunnels. Some people use a piece of plastic milk bottle folded in half to act as a "spring". Anything that can put tension on the pushrods so they don't fall out will work.
 
There's no link. I don't think I have a picture of it. Simple enough, you tie a piece of twine around 2 foam rubber blocks and stuff them into the head to keep the pushrods in place. Then once you have the head positioned with the pushrods in the cylinders, yank the foam blocks out and let the pushrods fall into the tunnels. Some people use a piece of plastic milk bottle folded in half to act as a "spring". Anything that can put tension on the pushrods so they don't fall out will work.
I use a rubber band
Weave it in and out of the pushrods to hold them in place
Then cut the band and pull it out when the head is almost down
Works for me
 
The problem is Norton didn't leave us that extra half, nay, quarter inch twixt head and frame to make it easy to slide the head in.
Pushrods just barely, if that, clear the top of the block.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top