Type F being phased out?

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chaztuna said:
Back in the day, when my Harley buddies would pontificate on how you had to be a real man to kick start a Harley, I'd tell them to try starting my 1972 BSA Gold Star 500 single. After they made fools of themselves, I'd start it on 2 kicks! I did a frame up restoration on that bike. It was a basket-case when I got it. I wish I still had it.
Charlie K
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Kid across the street when I was a wee lad had a Gold Star. I would always sit on the curb and watch him. He was about 120 lb. and used his off foot, swinging down his other leg to get enough momentum. Sometimes it worked............
 
So in summary, if you want/need your clutch to hold a bit more horsepower, use Type F. If you have no issues with your clutch, use Dexron III and get a very small reduction in shock to your gearbox and final drive. You could even try using synthetic ATF, like Dexron VI or Mercon V. They would lessen wear on the sprocket teeth & primary chain, but may cause clutch slippage. All you could do is try it, and switch back if the clutch slips to much.

JimNH said:
Kid across the street when I was a wee lad had a Gold Star. I would always sit on the curb and watch him. He was about 120 lb. and used his off foot, swinging down his other leg to get enough momentum. Sometimes it worked............
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Naturally, you were sitting there hoping to see him get launched over the handlebars! Cheap, first class entertainment. ;) Obviously, we all grew up on The Three Stooges and Bennie Hill.

Charlie K
 
chaztuna said:
So in summary, if you want/need your clutch to hold a bit more horsepower, use Type F. If you have no issues with your clutch, use Dexron III and get a very small reduction in shock to your gearbox and final drive. You could even try using synthetic ATF, like Dexron VI or Mercon V. They would lessen wear on the sprocket teeth & primary chain, but may cause clutch slippage. All you could do is try it, and switch back if the clutch slips to much.



Naturally, you were sitting there hoping to see him get launched over the handlebars! Cheap, first class entertainment. ;) Obviously, we all grew up on The Three Stooges and Bennie Hill.

Charlie K
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If your clutch slips, fix what’s wrong with it.
 
RoadScholar said:
Barnett recommends either Dexron or type "F" for clutch packs they sell that run in lubrication separate from engine/transmission; they note that the type "F" will produce a more noticeable engagement point then the Dextron, but don't suggest one over the other. I tried both in a BSA 441, when I could start it, and liked the Dexron.

Best.
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Knee trashing vibration beast.
 
concours said:
If your clutch slips, fix what’s wrong with it.
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Sorry, if you took my post to mean that you could swap fluids to cure a slipping clutch. Some riders report that after switching to synthetic ATF, they started having slippage, when they had none before the change. You are correct that having the clutch properly assembled and at the proper stack height, makes life much easier, at least on the Commando.

Charlie
 
RoadScholar said:
Barnett recommends either Dexron or type "F" for clutch packs they sell that run in lubrication separate from engine/transmission; they note that the type "F" will produce a more noticeable engagement point then the Dextron, but don't suggest one over the other. I tried both in a BSA 441, when I could start it, and liked the Dexron.

Best.
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Where? Not challenging you, just want to learn....
Type F being phased out?
 
concours said:
Where? Not challenging you, just want to learn...
Click to expand...

I appreciate your question and don't see it anything beyond seeking the facts.

The information was in the box, it also said to coat and wipe down the plates with what you would be using in the primary, I assure you that I didn't dream it; I like doing things once. I doubt that I still have the instruction sheet, and it it turns out that I got the instructions for a Mufuni Cronus V-12 or an Intergalactica straight 8, I apologize to the members.

Best
 
Surely our clutches are classed as dry clutches?

So seeking the clutch manufacturers recommendation for the best oil to use in the primary case is not what we want to be doing here?

We need an oil that when splashed or misted does not cling to a clutch plate or contaminate it in any way.
Usually this would be ATF-F as it is thin, basic in construction and just enough to wet the primary chain - which is all we are looking to achieve here.

For a MK3 we should stick to a thicker 20/50 engine oil because:
1) the tolerances in the pistons on the chain tensioner suggest that a thinner oil like ATF would not allow the chain tensioner to work properly.
2) we need the cling of a slightly thicker oil in order to aid lubrication of the sprag, which ATF cannot provide as it has a tendency to run off, leaving only a thin film which may induce sprag slippage.
 
My alternator grommet looks a bit like that too.

I just had to repair the wiring on my ~3yo alternator. All of the sleeving inside the primary had turned brittle and was breaking apart. It was soft and supple outside the primary.

Repotted the wiring at the alternator with Ultimate Black, and added DP25 shrink wrap.
 
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