Turn signal switch repair '74 850 Commando

Decided to see why my left turn signal didn't work, then worked just once, then wouldn't work again. The flipper has two cam lobes. If the plastic (or nylon?) which the flipper is made of and on which the flipper rotates is worn, then maybe one lobe doesn't press hard against a copper contact switch and no contact is made. You can bend the contact a little and also clean with very fine sandpaper(600 grit) the contact points. But there are four very small springs, two per push button and a ball bearing that sits atop a slightly bigger spring that rides the camed flipper switch. I was a little shocked when it went back together with all those little bits staying in place. You could use a bit of stiff vaseline to keep the little bits from running and hiding behind a bench leg. And, yes, now it works. I guess I did this because I didn' t want to fiddle with the harness under the tank. By the way, how much are one of these things with wires and all?

I dont think new Lucas ones are available but its not to hard to restore them, buttons, flip lever and springs come in a kit

I think the only close ones these days are Tricor, and I am not sure if these Triumph ones are the same for Norton?

http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatalog/Handlebar_switchgear.html

Thanks all for the tip about the repair kit. Didn't even know they'd have that. Though I don't need it right away now, my repair was made with old parts and I think it would be a good Idea to get the repair kit and put it on the shelf.

Most of the problems I have had are due to Lucas's attempt to provide a ground through the chrome plating on the plastic turn signal housing. What I've done is to run a 22 ga. ground wire from the screw that holds the socket in place through the standoff to a grounding point in the headlight. I did the same thing on my T120.

I bought one of those repair kits earlier this year – the extension on the dip/main switch lever was broken off before I bought the bike, only 19 years ago ... I found that the hole in the new switch lever was too shallow and too small in diameter to admit the ball. I fixed that with a drill, by comparison with the old lever. I notified Andover Norton, who said they'd quarantine their stock until the issue was rectified. Don't know what the situation is now, and I haven't got around to checking the indicator switch lever for the same issue. HTH

i just did a fix to the signal light lever and had the same problem, hole was not deep enough. i bought the kit about a yr ago

One solution is to buy the Sparks version (seen in the link), and swap the Lucas aluminum cover. Apparently it fits perfectly.

Stephen Hill

If you really want to splash out, that fellow in Greece makes the switch lever with a SS pin in so it is unbreakable.

Onder said:

If you really want to splash out, that fellow in Greece makes the switch lever with a SS pin in so it is unbreakable.

Click to expand...

However, the three-position 'direction indicator' and two-position 'dip' switch toggles (either long or short) are not the same part.



The unbreakable toggle made by Triples Unilmited is the two-position type intended for later T160/T140 'kill switch' operation.

http://www.triplesunlimited.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=70