Tri Spark Ignition mystery

Status
Not open for further replies.
Guido

Guido

VIP MEMBER
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
824
Country flag
I was going to a VW race and show last weekend and about 12 miles into the trip on the freeway it just quit like the key was turned off.
I pulled the tank and checked the wiring harness and then tried to start it and it fired up and off I went.
About another 10 ml it did it again. I did the same thing and after about 20 minutes it fired up and I made it to Sacramento Raceway and enjoyed the show.
Went to leave and it started. So off I went. About 10 minutes it starts to act like someone was turning the key on and off and then finally died and I had to get my trailer.
Today I completely checked every connection. No loose or chaffed wires.

I used a test light and a multi meter and everything seemed fine.
I went to start it and it would idle fine until I revved it, then it would shut off.
It will do this everytime.

I have a Tri-Spark ignition about 2 1/2 yrs. old from CNW.
I'll call Matt but wanted to ask the peoples if they have had the same experience.
I am perplexed. Any ideas?
 
Check your ignition key switch. They can become internally corroded and offer great resistance. This will make the bike stutter, misfire or cut out completely.
If any of your lights only come on with the key on, try wiggling the key while watching the light. If you see it getting dim then bright, or going on and off while the key switched is jiggled, then that is likely your problem.
Alternatively , do the same using an Ohm meter.

Glen
 
You could bypass the ignition switch completely by running a wire directly from the battery to the ignition unit. Be careful of polarity (negative or positive ground).
I just had a problem similar and it turned out to be a faulty coil. Good luck
Pete
 
Consider poor earth connection or insulation getting a bit warm and parting conduction path including the trigger area leads too. I've missed appointments d/t trying to ride a Commando daily. There's were events a few yrs back others had 3-spark heat issues in points area.
 
Deets55 said:
You could bypass the ignition switch completely by running a wire directly from the battery to the ignition unit. Be careful of polarity (negative or positive ground).
I just had a problem similar and it turned out to be a faulty coil. Good luck
Pete
Click to expand...

I did a similar thing when experiencing engine cutout due to key switch corrosion. I first noticed the brake light was not functioning with the key switch on. Wiggling the key brought the light on. Wiggling it some more made the light go brighter then dimmer, then off etc.
I attached a short jumper wire across the key switch terminals and, Whammo, full power, no misfire, no cutout.
The previous owner told me the engine had a misfire which had been getting a bit worse each year, so the corroded switch had been causing problems for years.

Glen
 
When I did the "resto" 3 years ago I completely dissembled the key switch and the bar switches and they were so crusty and I completely cleaned and dielectric greased it.
It dies so consistenly each time, I'm thinking it's the Tri Spark and only when it gets revved up.
 
Guido said:
When I did the "resto" 3 years ago I completely dissembled the key switch and the bar switches and they were so crusty and I completely cleaned and dielectric greased it.
It dies so consistenly each time, I'm thinking it's the Tri Spark and only when it gets revved up.
Click to expand...
I believe the TriSpark's have been improved but not totally proofed (proven).
 
You could bypass the ignition switch completely by running a wire directly from the battery to the ignition unit. Be careful of polarity (negative or positive ground).
I just had a problem similar and it turned out to be a faulty coil. Good luck
Pete
Click to expand...


Pete, that is exactly what I did, I ran a wire direct bypassing the igniion to the Trispark but with a simple
Radio Shack toggle switch in between zip tied to the frame tube above the keyed ignition location

this insures direct current with no possibility of interruption from going to switch, in and out of headlight,etc
 
I'll try the direct link to the unit from the battery later today.
I am running BPR7ES PLUGS and have a Boyer in the old TriSpark box.
If no joy I will put the Boyer back in as it ran for many many years with no problem.
I only bought the TS because of the no kick back and idle features.
Shame cuz I really liked the simplicity of the TS.
Seems like 3 years is the max for the TS.
I have had mine since 10/17/2011.
Still under warranty as they offer a 3yr warranty.
 
1up3down
BTW I would suggest putting a fuse in that line somewhere to avoid a unprotected short . You also lose the function of your handle bar kill switch. A better way might be repair/replace your ignition switch if it is faulty and use a relay if you want a direct power line to your EI.
Pete
 
Or a short jumper wire across the ignition switch terminals, it takes only a couple of minutes to do, existing fuse protection and kill button still in place, but the key is permanently 'on' and corrosion or any other problem in the key switch is bypassed.

Glen
 
I also have a spade type fuse at the battery which I just put in yesterday to replace the spring type glass fuse.
I put in a 15 amp fuse which blew and then I put in a 20 amp fuse. I understand that the English rating is 35 amp which translates to 17.5 amp American. Is that correct?
I will bypass the switch later today. I am just home for lunch right now.
 
you should NOT be blowing a 15 amp fuse so IMHO you have a high current draw somewhere. on the second part you are correct as to a direct replacement is 17.5 amp mercian.

Guido said:
.
I put in a 15 amp fuse which blew and then I put in a 20 amp fuse. I understand that the English rating is 35 amp which translates to 17.5 amp American. Is that correct?
Click to expand...
 
Well, I went through every wire and connection looking for damaged or loose connections and everything is tight.
The harness is about 3 years old from Commando Specialties. I by passed all the harness and hooked up the tri spark directly and no spark.
Put everything back to stock, (wiring) and no spark
Put my test light on the wire right at the TS unit and it has power on both sides of the connector.
I think I have exhausted all things as far as wiring goes so I removed the TS from the points cavity and you can smell what smells like burned wiring when I put the unit up to my nose.

I have my MICRO-MK111 Boyer which I will put back in and see if that will work.

Now, someone on here had returned a bad unit and they upcharged them for the latest unit as a replacement under warranty.
What was the upcharge for the newest TS?
 
I called Matt @ CNW and today he sent out the latest version of the unit with no upcharge.
Told me to send mine back to him at my leisure.
Great guy.
Hope this one will be the bee's knee's
 
Maybe they are isolated cases but had been thinking about the 850's ignition for some time,one to many Tri Spark threads finally made the decision.
What ever the source of problems, a bike that can just stop is not my bag, poorly maintained is bearable being it is self governed.
If it stops due to a smoking con rod landing on the road is one thing,ignition systems with minds of their own, no thanks.
I think I am at the point where invoices go in the never look folder.

Tri Spark Ignition mystery
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

K
remove components for tri-spark ignition.
Replies
6
Views
587
htown16
htown16
jamesp
Tri-Spark EI and coil testing
2 3
Replies
46
Views
1,371
concours
concours
Schwany
Tri-Spark bites the dust two years in
2 3 4
Replies
67
Views
2,019
Schwany
Schwany
S
Atlas and Tri-spark ignition
Replies
4
Views
952
seattle##gs
S
Big_Jim59
  • Locked
I Have a Bit Of An Oil Filter Mystery
Replies
5
Views
943
Big_Jim59
Big_Jim59
Back
Top