Does anyone have any tips for adjusting the ignition accurately with the Trispark. Just a fraction of a millimetre rotation of the stator seems to translate into 4 or 5 degrees. The whole procedure is so hit and miss and made more difficult by the washers on the pillar bolts which make it difficult to turn without slackening the bolts completely and it makes a mockery of accurate timing with a strobe unless you get lucky. Couldn't the boffins come up with some sort of vernier adjustment which could turn the stator a degree at a time. My other gripe is having the bolts holding the points cover on screw into the head of the pillar bolts so half the time when removing the points cover the stator comes off as well. Finally does the 28 BTDC still apply with a hot cam and 10.5 to 1 pistons?
TIMING A TRISPARK
- Thread starter edward
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2006
- Messages
- 1,075
Can't answer re the timing numbers for hot cam/pistons but re the others...
I agree that the timing adjustment can be a bit fiddly for the reason you described though I haven't encountered the frustration level that you have. I guess it doesn't really bother me because it's essentially a one-time adjustment. I have never encountered the pillar bolt issue with a Commando - even back in the point days when opening the points cover was a regular and routine operation. I tighten the pillar bolts fairly tight with a very small wrench and points cover bolts to just "snug" and have never had any issue with them backing out. I don't use any locktite on the point cover screws or the pillar bolts but you could use the blue on the pillar bolt threads. That would eliminate the problem if it persists.
A vernier timing thingie as you suggest would be a nice thing but I suspect that given the fact that it's not something that has to be adjusted regularly, there would not be sufficient demand to justify the price increase that would probably be required to produce it.
I agree that the timing adjustment can be a bit fiddly for the reason you described though I haven't encountered the frustration level that you have. I guess it doesn't really bother me because it's essentially a one-time adjustment. I have never encountered the pillar bolt issue with a Commando - even back in the point days when opening the points cover was a regular and routine operation. I tighten the pillar bolts fairly tight with a very small wrench and points cover bolts to just "snug" and have never had any issue with them backing out. I don't use any locktite on the point cover screws or the pillar bolts but you could use the blue on the pillar bolt threads. That would eliminate the problem if it persists.
A vernier timing thingie as you suggest would be a nice thing but I suspect that given the fact that it's not something that has to be adjusted regularly, there would not be sufficient demand to justify the price increase that would probably be required to produce it.
My EI is a Pazon Surefire on a 850 Mk2.
With any electronic ignition moving the timing stator has some potential error. That is because the Commando primary degree reference plate is likely to be inaccurate. You have to positively confirm where exactly 30 degrees BTDC actually is. My degree plate was 6 degrees out. My solution was to find TDC on the left cylinder, then using the alternator rotor index mark to scribe a line onto the alternator stator. Then remove the stator to fix a big degree wheel onto the end of the crankshaft with a pointer firmly attached, rotate the motor from 0 backward to 30 degrees. Then refit the alternator stator and using the rotor index mark transfer a scribe mark onto the stator. Refit the primary cover and look inside at the reference plate. Don't be surprised to see it well advanced or retarded, and ignore it thereafter.
Then go into the timing side and set the ignition timing plate accordingly. Run a strobe as per the EI specification and it should be pretty much good to go.
With any electronic ignition moving the timing stator has some potential error. That is because the Commando primary degree reference plate is likely to be inaccurate. You have to positively confirm where exactly 30 degrees BTDC actually is. My degree plate was 6 degrees out. My solution was to find TDC on the left cylinder, then using the alternator rotor index mark to scribe a line onto the alternator stator. Then remove the stator to fix a big degree wheel onto the end of the crankshaft with a pointer firmly attached, rotate the motor from 0 backward to 30 degrees. Then refit the alternator stator and using the rotor index mark transfer a scribe mark onto the stator. Refit the primary cover and look inside at the reference plate. Don't be surprised to see it well advanced or retarded, and ignore it thereafter.
Then go into the timing side and set the ignition timing plate accordingly. Run a strobe as per the EI specification and it should be pretty much good to go.
rvich
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2009
- Messages
- 3,188
My primary cover seems to be in good condition but I can shift it around on its pins enough to change the timing about two degrees. Turns out the indicator is on so long as I rotate the cover counter-clockwise as far as possible. This is not the default position for the cover as the aft end is heavier so it likes to sit with that end down. I just shift it before checking timing and then don't worry about whether it gravitates back to the other position.
Russ
Russ
- Status
Similar threads
