Time to rebuild need advice

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Hi All,
From Melbourne Australia.
First post, have been enjoying the Forum for some time now. :D
It is now time to put my favorite ride on the road again after 32 yrs.
1975 850 Commando Interstate Mk3 with Dunstall fairing
I ride mostly solo, exploring the back country roads around Victoria my home State and there are many favourites.
Occasional rides with group of friends mostly Harleys

My current ride is a 2009 Thruxton which I bought new, its a great ride and lots of fun, reliable etc.
A well maintained Commando also has these attributes but with extras.
Things that get you more involved with the bike, such as performing all your own regular Maintenance, Tickling the Carburetors, Kick Starting.
Even comes with Hinged seat, Tool box.
I did 34k enjoyable miles from new on The Commando, it being my only transport in those days. Commuting weekdays and long distance rides on weekends.
The few minor issues I did have were, Wet sump once ,Carburetor bowls came loose, Clutch cables breaking and Faulty ignition switch.

So it is time to get my hands dirty and get it back to its former glory with your assistance please.

I need advice on:

1. Front Brake upgrade full system.
The old Brakes never gave me confidence in the wet.

2. Ignition System.
There are various systems available at similar prices and capabilities.
Something reliable and does the task required.

3. Replacement Starter Motor.
The old one rusted away, bad seal.

4. New alternator existing has large bulge.
Is there a replacement with higher output for better lighting.
I like to see the Kangaroos before see me, another reason for the Brake upgrade.

5. Would you replace a 40 yr old Wiring Harness?

6. New screen required on Dunstall fairing.

Ian
 
Hi Strida, welcome. Search, enjoy hours of fascinating reading... lot's to peruse. :mrgreen:
 
Ah so daily life on a real quaint pleasing reliable motorcycle. My only suggestion since forum searches only the text not subject line better to use google with accessnorton in search words and also w/o accessnorton for a wider scope of results. Also much as this forum has world class resoruces and parts makers the world wide vendors are also on top of details and parts swapping and compatable upgrades. i've done business with British Supply in NZ so if exchange rates good give them a ping too.
 
Strida said:
Hi All,
From Melbourne Australia.
First post, have been enjoying the Forum for some time now. :D
It is now time to put my favorite ride on the road again after 32 yrs.
1975 850 Commando Interstate Mk3 with Dunstall fairing
I ride mostly solo, exploring the back country roads around Victoria my home State and there are many favourites.
Occasional rides with group of friends mostly Harleys

My current ride is a 2009 Thruxton which I bought new, its a great ride and lots of fun, reliable etc.
A well maintained Commando also has these attributes but with extras.
Things that get you more involved with the bike, such as performing all your own regular Maintenance, Tickling the Carburetors, Kick Starting.
Even comes with Hinged seat, Tool box.
I did 34k enjoyable miles from new on The Commando, it being my only transport in those days. Commuting weekdays and long distance rides on weekends.
The few minor issues I did have were, Wet sump once ,Carburetor bowls came loose, Clutch cables breaking and Faulty ignition switch.

So it is time to get my hands dirty and get it back to its former glory with your assistance please.

I need advice on:

1. Front Brake upgrade full system.
The old Brakes never gave me confidence in the wet.

2. Ignition System.
There are various systems available at similar prices and capabilities.
Something reliable and does the task required.

3. Replacement Starter Motor.
The old one rusted away, bad seal.

4. New alternator existing has large bulge.
Is there a replacement with higher output for better lighting.
I like to see the Kangaroos before see me, another reason for the Brake upgrade.

5. Would you replace a 40 yr old Wiring Harness?

6. New screen required on Dunstall fairing.

Ian
I'll chime in:
1) close (tape) the vent in the rain

2) Boyer, cheap and plentiful. Works fine

3) Dynodave starter www.atlanticgreen.com
 
+1 on the Dynodave starter. I've had one on my MK3 for years now, and am extremely happy with it. Be sure and include the larger gauge battery cables for it.

I've had so many problems with the original wiring harness in mine, that I've recently purchased a complete new set of harnesses from Andover to replace the originals with. I've been stranded several times with failures in the wiring, and I'm tired of calling home for someone to bring the trailer out to pick up the bike. The hardest ones to find are when the copper strands break inside, but the insulation doesn't, so the wire still looks good. I've had that happen twice now. The other problem that seems to occur regularly is loss of contact in the bullet connectors. Most of those seem to be due to corrosion, and can usually be fixed by just cleaning the connectors. Lots of riding along the coast might have something to do with the corrosion. The bike was also parked outside for a number of years by the previous owner, and I think that contributed to the corrosion problem. I finally wired in a toggle switch that connects battery directly to ignition, in parallel to the normal wiring, so if it dies, I can at least pull the main fuse, switch on the toggle, kick start it and ride home, but with no lights. You may find that your wiring is in better condition than mine. If I hadn't had so many failures, I wouldn't even have thought about replacing the harness.

Ken
 
Hi Ian

I have owned my Norton for 39 years and still riding it, I also have a 2013 Thruxton and they are a great bike after doing a few things to the frontend and better shockes on the rear, as for my Norton (last of the kick start) a Boyar works great as I got 34 years out of mine and its still going in a mates Norton, I went for Joe Hunt maggie 5 years ago, no need for a battery, for wiring the best thing I did was to get rid of the orginal wiring and start all over by doing my own wiring, you can get rid of a lot of wires thats not needed, its not that hard of a job, as for your elec start there are many upgrades that can be done to the orginal elec start to make them work better, I can't see myself ever buying a new elec starter for my model at over $2,500, I can rebuild my motor for less than that, I have rebuilt a few Commandos over the years for mates, they are easy to work on even if you have not much experance, just get a good workshop manual, take your time and ask questions when needed, you will always find someone willing to help here and a good machine shop helps as well.

As for braking, I went to a complete Grimca system after my orginal brakes let me down in a big way, Grimca 12" floating disc, Grimca calipar, Grimca M/C and S/S brake line, this system works great with one or two finger operation, RGM sell this system, its not the best system on the market but is cheaper than most, works great and looks great on the bike, its good to have front brakes that work the way they should, hope this helps.

Ashley
 
As for braking, I went to a complete Grimca system after my orginal brakes let me down in a big way, Grimca 12" floating disc, Grimca calipar, Grimca M/C and S/S brake line, this system works great with one or two finger operation, RGM sell this system, its not the best system on the market but is cheaper than most, works great and looks great on the bike, its good to have front brakes that work the way they should, hope this helps.

A properly sized Grimeca master/caliper combination will perform nearly as well as a comparably sized Brembo combination. The main consideration is having the correct ratio of caliper piston size to master cylinder size. Even the most expensive system, if not properly sized, will not be a good brake. According to Vintage Brake, the ideal ratio is 27:1, area of caliper piston to area of master cylinder piston. I've used that same ratio on a Grimeca master and caliper setup and can definitely say it's great. Of course, pad friction, disc size, caliper flex, hose expansion, tire diameter and hand lever ratio all make a difference, as well.
 
What I've found:

1. Front Brake upgrade full system.
The old Brakes never gave me confidence in the wet.


Re-sleeving the standard master cylinder (I use the RGM kit) makes a huge difference to both power and feel, and replacing the standard caliper with a Lockheed/Grimeca one gives options on modern brake pad materials, but I've found that a standard caliper with the latest Ferodo (Federal Mogul) pads is more than adequate with a braided stainless hose.
A de-chromed disc is important too. I upgraded to a 12" cast iron floating disc on my 850, and although the difference was worthwhile, it wasn't all that significant.
Forum member Madass does some awesome systems, which take things to a different level altogether.

2. Ignition System.
There are various systems available at similar prices and capabilities.
Something reliable and does the task required.


I've used Pazon, Boyer and Tri-spark, and they all do the job. The Tri-spark in by far the neatest, and my favourite -the 850 ticks over like a sewing machine, even when cold.

3, 4.
Unknown territory - sorry :oops:


5. Would you replace a 40 yr old Wiring Harness?

Not necessarily - I went through my MkIIa harness and replaced all the bullet connectors with properly insulated Jap types which work much better, reducing the risk of exposed bullets causing a short.
A bit labour intensive, but no regrets - the wiring itself is OK, but the redundant wires and those nasty, bulky, moisture-trapping connector sheaths need to go. I've had bigger issues with switches - especially the ignition switch.

6.
No idea - sorry...

Looking forwards to seeing this one going back on the road
 
You'll get plenty of good advice.

+1 on the DD starter

+1 on a new electronic ignition. I've replaced the old style Boyer with a Pazon Altair and it works aces. There's new Boyer, Tri-Spark and others.

Install a 3 phase alternator and combination rectifier/regulator, ditch the zeners and rectifier so you can run a good headlight and keep the AGM battery charged. I'm using a Sparx alternator with good results.

+1 on the fixing the wiring harness. I just bypassed all the important wires and connectors with new high quality, tinned wire. By that I mean new main fuse, new 14ga wire to the ignition switch, all new wires to the ignition unit (there's lots of old junk to be removed there anyway as you won't need it), new 14 ga earth wire to common earth point. I used aircraft 4ga starter and engine earth wires, overkill, I know, (I think DD sells a kit of heavier than stock wires, I was an aircraft electrician in a past life so had the cable and fittings on hand). Installing the new alternator alone gets rid of a lot of old wires and connectors.

Good luck, I just reactivated my MKII after a 20+ year sleep and it brings a smile to my face that none of my other bikes ever did.
 
Strida said:
Hi All,
From Melbourne Australia.

1. Front Brake upgrade full system.
The old Brakes never gave me confidence in the wet.

2. Ignition System.
There are various systems available at similar prices and capabilities.
Something reliable and does the task required.

3. Replacement Starter Motor.
The old one rusted away, bad seal.

4. New alternator existing has large bulge.
Is there a replacement with higher output for better lighting.
I like to see the Kangaroos before see me, another reason for the Brake upgrade.

5. Would you replace a 40 yr old Wiring Harness?

6. New screen required on Dunstall fairing.

Ian

Hi.

1. If you want a stock look, I have a few items that may be of interest.

2. TriSpark is likely a good choice for you, as you have an electric start, and Mr TriSpark (Stephen Kelly) is also in Melbourne. You may be able to source his own parts cheaper than directly from him, but nonetheless he is very close for back-up.

3. DD Starter motors in stock, as well as his heavy leads.

4. I find a stock mk 3 alternator is adequate for electric start purposes, but a lot of night running would challenge that, and your gearing can have an impact as well. A 16amp single phase would be good, or a 3 phase if you do a lot of lights on running (quite likely a similar max output, but the load typically balances lower in the rev range, which is good if you have a highway geared bike that you ride at night, for example). I would probably use a Podtronic reg/rec (I wonder which brand I have in stock???)

5. Not by default.

Lyell
 
Matt Spencer said:
5. Would you replace a 40 yr old Wiring Harness?

Why Not ?


Because SOME of the replacement stuff I've seen are of horrid quality. If the old harness is chopped, poorly repaired/modified, burnt, etc. then, yes. If it's not chopped up, then replace the female bullet connectors and repair as needed.
 
Matt Spencer said:
5. Would you replace a 40 yr old Wiring Harness?

Why Not ?

Depends on the treatment of the bike and the storage it received.
The condition of Copper core wiring varies from bike to bike, as per the above. Some go black, some go green or brown, and some, even after 40 years, neither.
You really need to strip a small section of the insulation with a wire insulation stripper to determine the internal condition.
 
Strida said:
So it is time to get my hands dirty and get it back to its former glory with your assistance please.

I need advice on:

1. Front Brake upgrade full system.
The old Brakes never gave me confidence in the wet.

2. Ignition System.
There are various systems available at similar prices and capabilities.
Something reliable and does the task required.

3. Replacement Starter Motor.
The old one rusted away, bad seal.

4. New alternator existing has large bulge.
Is there a replacement with higher output for better lighting.
I like to see the Kangaroos before see me, another reason for the Brake upgrade.

5. Would you replace a 40 yr old Wiring Harness?

6. New screen required on Dunstall fairing.

Ian
Resleeve the master, get a Tri-Spark, See Dyno Dave, There are better alts, I'd get a new harness if I were you and here is a link to the screen.

http://www.bikescreen.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DunstallGTNorton850
 
Firstly thanks to you all for the valuable information.

1. Going for the Grimeca System, reasonable price and I lose some weight to boot.

2. Tri Spark will be my choice, simply because they a made locally and advice would be just a short ride away.

3. Dynodave sounds good.

4. 3 Phase with all additions. Podtronic can I get more info ?

5. I have checked the wiring and all seems good, Except where the dog it.
The challenge will be managing the loom under the fairing, no head light bucket.
Plenty of wire to play with, may even relocate/eliminate some of it if possible.

6. Thanks Guido the Screen has been ordered.
Just spent a week restoring the Fairing looks great painted (Black), final clear coat goes on tomorrow.

I will post pictures soon as I can get the Garage in order and the Norton is again centre of attention.
 
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