Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife

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I set up my lift table for what ever job I am doing, I don't run a centre stand so the sissor jack works a treat on the lift table, I no need to pull both wheels off at the same time, one job at a time, as for the wheel chock its easy to remove only 4 bolts but so far haven't had the need to do so, my front tie downs I can use the hooks or the straps, depends on what bike is up on the stand but hooks are used mostly.

Ashley
 
i have one of the jacks make sure your floor is perfectly level and that bike is strapped to jack very securely i found out those two tips the hard way
 
I'm envious of anyone with a center stand. Except for the added weight.

I tie my bike to a hook in a ceiling joist when doing suspension work. You'd have to be there. :rolleyes:
 
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850commando said:
the reason i asked the Q, is because there is no way a single individual ( except a 6'-6" hulk) could roll it into the front wheel chock, and then lift the back end while at the same time kicking out the main stand.

the wheel chock makes sense for some things but the main stand has its benefits too, and they are mutually exclusive.
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I do it and am 6'1"

right foot close to rear of rear wheel, left foot on stand, grab the rear hoop and use your legs.
 
After driving 20 miles to an old fashion hardware store I was able to source some 5/16" 24 x 4" grade eight cap screws for my puller. The longest I could find in any loacal "big box store" were 3 1/2". They would only engage about 3 threads. After making sure the puller was pulled down square and snug. a short blast on the center screw with a pneumatic impact driver set on high popped the engine sprocket right off. No heat or need to hit the center bolt. The impact of the driver made short work of popping the sprocket off the taper..

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife


BTW the gearbox sprocket is 21 tooth I think I will opt for a 22 while I have it apart. That will result in a 5% reduction in RPM at any given speed, a similar reduction to that of going from 3.91 to 3.73 axle ratio in an automobile.
 
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Dan1950 said:
After driving 20 miles to an old fashion hardware store I was able to source some 5/16" 24 x 4" grade eight cap screws for my puller. The longest I could find in any loacal "big box store" were 3 1/2". They would only engage about 3 threads. After making sure the puller was pulled down square and snug. a short blast on the center screw with a pneumatic impact driver set on high popped the engine sprocket right off. No heat or need to hit the center bolt. The impact of the driver made short work of popping the sprocket off the taper..

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife


BTW the gearbox sprocket is 21 tooth I think I will opt for a 22 while I have it apart. That will result in a 5% reduction in RPM at any given speed, a similar reduction to that of going from 3.91 to 3.73 axle ratio in an automobile.
Click to expand...
Any signs of cracks on the gearbox case where the layshaft bearing sits?
Sometimes they burst the outer case behind the gearbox sprocket
 
baz said:
Any signs of cracks on the gearbox case where the layshaft bearing sits?
Sometimes they burst the outer case behind the gearbox sprocket
Click to expand...
Haven't removed the sprocket yet. I don't want to get primitive with a chisel. Any idea what size socket to use?
 
Can't remember but I'm thinking I use an 1"1/2" box spanner
 
850commando said:
the reason i asked the Q, is because there is no way a single individual ( except a 6'-6" hulk) could roll it into the front wheel chock, and then lift the back end while at the same time kicking out the main stand.

the wheel chock makes sense for some things but the main stand has its benefits too, and they are mutually exclusive.
Click to expand...
I have a big C clamp on the floor joists above, Ancra ratchet strap lifts the arse end to deploy the mainstand. No heavy liftin... it was the ruptured biceps tendon that signalled the bull-in-the-woods shite was over.
 
Right above centre of the lift is an excellent location for an electric hoist. Certainly not a necessity, but if it's there it gets used quite a lot, especially for assembly after a big tear down.
. Also handy for weighing bikes.
 
Dan1950 said:
Haven't found anything definitive yet but the information I have seen says 1 5/8"
Click to expand...

It is actually 7/8" Whitworth (1.48")...
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...but 1 1/2" AF/ 38mm as mentioned is close enough.
 
I use this for the big nuts. 1 1/2" & 1 1/8" x 18" long. It has chamfered edges so you have to be a little careful on the shallow nuts. Its the best $8 I spent at HF. I hung mine on the wall next to my old shop stereo and discovered that looping the fm antenna around one end improves reception. Plus it works for hitch balls and defending your property. They stock them in the trailer hitch area of the store. Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife
 
Late to this one , but I had similar lift , and I too upgraded wheel chock , was never satisfied with its build quality of table so moved it along , back to wooden table a la Greg Marsh …. Dan50 knows he named his bike after one of Hobot’s right …..
 
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