Throttle cable (2014)

Every time I remove the carbs and detach the throttle cables, Have a ridiculously hard time reattaching the cables at the throttle junction box. Is there a particular order of reassembly that should b followed? This just seems a lot more difficult than it should be.

Throttle junction box? I remove the cables from the carbs.

Russ

Yeah, no need to mess with the under the tank cable junction box, really ever

why do you feel you need to?

I may be mistaken but doesn't the junction have to be assembled beforeconnecting to the carbs?

It is a good idea to mark them left and right, for these cable are rarely perfectly equal in length. A little off, in this regard, can screw up good setup and lead to much head scratching to the unaware.

pete.v said:

I may be mistaken but doesn't the junction have to be assembled before the carbs?

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It is possible, but not how I would normally do it.

If I remember (I hate removing the carbs) I think I take the cables off at the twist grip and the air control and try to leave every the cable intact. I can with, a bit of fussing, pull the slides out of the carbs and leave the cables intact but there isn't much room. If I didn't have the 850 with the stepped spray jets I don't think I could easily get the slides back in.

Regardless, it is a pain.

Dave

I have never had to disassemble the junction/remove the carbs for that purpose. I pull the tops off the carbs (two screws), pull the top/slides out and disconnect the cable from the slide with the slide in my hand. The carbs aren't disturbed nor are the cables. Takes about 5 minutes including removing the tank.

Typically, I just leave top and slide hanging off the cable while I work on the rest of the carb. About the only time I remove the slide is if I want to work on the needle.

Russ

Thanks all. I've got something that seems to be not allowing my cables to move freely- might be cable routing- I hope. Going to tank the tank off and start looking at it the afternoon.

I finally got the time to take the tank off and see what might be giving me issues.
The problem is that when riding the bike, the rpms sometimes return to idle when the throttle is let off, and sometimes takes longer to return to idle.
Throttle cable routing looked good, so I decided that i may want to check needle positions in the carbs. I had installed premieres on my MK III and Atlas last year, and just have a nagging thought that while my intent was to set both needles in the middle notch, I may have messed one up.
On the MK III, leaving the cables in, I unscrewed the top of one of the carbs and slid the slide out. I then compressed the spring with my hand, allowing me to wiggle the needle out. With the needle out, I was then able to release the slide from the cable.
Putting the clip on the center notch, I am now ready to reassemble.
Compressing the spring and inserting the cable through the center of the spring, I have spent the last hour trying to anchor the cable in the slide. My thought is that once the cable is secured, i will again compress the spring and inset the needle and clip. I have since given up for today and have started consuming adult beverages.
I am at best an average mechanic, but the difficulty here is baffling to me. I have to think there is an order of work that would make this a bit more logical.

Having become a carb removal and re-install expert in the past few months, I can offer some suggestions.
Leave the junction box alone - if the cables are seated properly, no need to take it apart.
Get a friend and / or a hemostat to clip the throttle cable after compressing the spring. Three hands are not required but can be useful.
Difficult to explain, easy to do if you take your time.
Move the hemostat up the cable while compressing the spring and secure it as close to the top as possible.
Now you will have enough slack in the cable to disconnect from the slide.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2Cf6GUU2tI

As to uneven cable lengths - that is what the adjusters at the top of the cars are for.

Somewhere on YouTube is a man putting amals on his triumph but I cant find it again. He has a tool to hold the carb spring compressed so you can fit the cable in the slide then release the spring. Its just a bent bit of flat metal you can make yourself and it works great you can fit spring an cable in seconds! !

Take strip of steel just a little wider than spring diameter and about 1mm thick (if it bends in use make again out of thicker metal)

Shape it around something about 1/2" thick (crush a spring in your fingers an measure it that is the gap you need) so you have a "C" shape with top an bottom parts parallel and about 1 inch long. You should be able to compress the spring a push it inside the tool.

Now cut a slot in the top and bottom of the tool from the front open end towards the back the centre of the strip about 1/2" long.

This is how it works. Compress the spring fit it into the tool now feed the cable through the carb top as normal then through the slot so it passes through the spring and the tool. Fit cable to slide as tool holds spring pressure then hold needle with fingers pull it gently so you know its seated ok. Now pull the tool out the slot allows the cable to pass out of the tool as the spring slides out and expands.

Hope you understood that sorry cant find the link on YouTube and never sorted out how to put pictures on here but try it an you'll gey the idea. Its a brilliant little tool no more swearing at springs or cables.

wjrich said:

The problem is that when riding the bike, the rpms sometimes return to idle when the throttle is let off, and sometimes takes longer to return to idle.

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You may find that your ignition Automatic Advance Unit is hanging up. I recommend popping off the points cover and giving the cam a twist to make sure it snaps back promptly. Mine was doing the same thing; most annoying!

Throttle cable, hmm, I remove the top of the carb and when the slides are out, I take hemostats and hold the spring as tight as it will allow on the cable and then you can remove what you like. No problemo. Nothing to do about the junction box.

Now if you have advance issues, that's another story.

+1 on the hemostat idea! Couldn't find any but used a small pair of vice grips for the same purpose. Was able to compress the spring and drop in the needle in about 3 minutes.
Fired up the bike after putting tank back on, and it ran like crap, one cylinder missing and eventually belching small amounts of black smoke. Took tank off again, unscrewed the top of the offending carb and it looked as if somehow I caused the clip on the needle to detach. Fixed that, put tank back on and it ran great. Not sure what I did, but maybe in the process of taking apart and putting back together, the bike now returns to idle like it should.
The hemostat trick made what took me all afternoon trying to fix yesterday a 10 minute job today (3 minutes x2 on taking slide in and out; 4 minutes taking tank on/off).
Thanks all- my schedule doesn't allow me as much time with my bikes as I'd like, so when I have a issue, this website has been an incredible help.

Hi all
I’m replacing the cable from grip to junction box. How can one attach new cable to junction box without removing at carb end?
Thanks
Newbie

To surgeon said:

I’m replacing the cable from grip to junction box. How can one attach new cable to junction box without removing at carb end?

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Unscrew the junction box cap, hold the junction box in one hand and with your other hand pull the upper cable until the slider is clear of the body.
Next is the awkward part and a helper could make the job easier although it depends on your dexterity.
Insert a thin rod, pin, etc. between the body and slider to hold the slider clear of the body with the rod in a position where the old cable can be unhooked from the the slider.

Fit the junction box cap to the new cable, fit the cable inner to the slider, remove rod/pin...etc..etc.

Edit: This is assuming it's the standard plastic Amal junction box?

L.A.B. said:

Unscrew the junction box cap, hold the junction box in one hand and with your other hand pull the upper cable until the slider is clear of the body.
Next is the awkward part and a helper could make the job easier although it depends on your dexterity.
Insert a thin rod, pin, etc. between the body and slider to hold the slider clear of the body with the rod in a position where the old cable can be unhooked from the the slider.

Fit the junction box cap to the new cable, fit the cable inner to the slider, remove rod/pin...etc..etc.

Edit: This is assuming it's the standard plastic Amal junction box?

Click to expand...

Thanks
I tried but was afraid I’d break the plastic so I just detached the carb end. All good!
It’s a 72 combat high rider, will post pics soon