Here are some pix of my bike. It's not a Redhead with long legs like some of the truly gorgeous bikes I've seen posted. It is a draft-horse to those thoroughbreds. It's a Hobin for slogging and grinding out miles. I know the pipes are toast, they were like that when I got them, obviously they were free 
Most of the electrical components and connections are in the headlight. There's a board where all the important circuits meet if I ever have to bypass something, like dodgey switches. 3M makes the world's best heatshrink tubing, BTW. It's like rubber and there's one that has a heat activated adhesive lining. SFTW202 and EPS-300. Digi-Key has'em. Relays rule.
Fuse box circuits for ignition, lights, electric jacket, and general gizmo's. It helps to keep the gizmo's separate.
This picture doesn't show up too well, but there's a lot of bracing on the frame. There's a two inch tube that runs from the backbone to a 1"x3" box connecting the plates that anchor the rear iso. It has a big gusset so it looks like an OIF Triumph. The seat loop has inside and outside plates. I was going to move the shock pickup point back to stand up the shocks. Laydown shocks are one way to get progressive suspension but they push the swingarm backward about as much as they hold the backend of the bike up, loading the iso's. I chickened out in the end. It's now a luggage reinforcement device. Big oilfilter, if I had two more like it I wouldn't need an oiltank. The chainguard is from a Domi, I think. It helps keep the chainlube off of everything. Bolts right on.
Mike Partridge sells aircleaner plates with one hole so you can run a single carb and keep the aircleaner. But it needs to be shortened by cutting the perforated surround. K&N sells filter elements of just about any dimensions you need. You need to cut back some of the bellmouth and machine a groove for the bellows on a lathe. Running a bolt through the box makes it a lot more secure, regardless. There's a dimple in the back plate that's just about exactly where you'd want it for the nut. That's an AV13 PCV.
This is a Lord's Elastomeric rodend. it's rubber that's rated at 0.020" deflection at 250lbs load. That's a 530 o-ring chain, it doesn't hit anything, go figure.. Several people have told me they have them. It's a Regina with a rivet clip.
This winter's project it to fit a set of Showa 43mm forks. The biggest PITA about it is welding a set of lugs for the fenderstays without warping anything and fabbing headight brackets with stock ears and oversize tubes. I'm going to put RoadHolder badges on them.
Most of the electrical components and connections are in the headlight. There's a board where all the important circuits meet if I ever have to bypass something, like dodgey switches. 3M makes the world's best heatshrink tubing, BTW. It's like rubber and there's one that has a heat activated adhesive lining. SFTW202 and EPS-300. Digi-Key has'em. Relays rule.
Fuse box circuits for ignition, lights, electric jacket, and general gizmo's. It helps to keep the gizmo's separate.
This picture doesn't show up too well, but there's a lot of bracing on the frame. There's a two inch tube that runs from the backbone to a 1"x3" box connecting the plates that anchor the rear iso. It has a big gusset so it looks like an OIF Triumph. The seat loop has inside and outside plates. I was going to move the shock pickup point back to stand up the shocks. Laydown shocks are one way to get progressive suspension but they push the swingarm backward about as much as they hold the backend of the bike up, loading the iso's. I chickened out in the end. It's now a luggage reinforcement device. Big oilfilter, if I had two more like it I wouldn't need an oiltank. The chainguard is from a Domi, I think. It helps keep the chainlube off of everything. Bolts right on.
Mike Partridge sells aircleaner plates with one hole so you can run a single carb and keep the aircleaner. But it needs to be shortened by cutting the perforated surround. K&N sells filter elements of just about any dimensions you need. You need to cut back some of the bellmouth and machine a groove for the bellows on a lathe. Running a bolt through the box makes it a lot more secure, regardless. There's a dimple in the back plate that's just about exactly where you'd want it for the nut. That's an AV13 PCV.
This is a Lord's Elastomeric rodend. it's rubber that's rated at 0.020" deflection at 250lbs load. That's a 530 o-ring chain, it doesn't hit anything, go figure.. Several people have told me they have them. It's a Regina with a rivet clip.
This winter's project it to fit a set of Showa 43mm forks. The biggest PITA about it is welding a set of lugs for the fenderstays without warping anything and fabbing headight brackets with stock ears and oversize tubes. I'm going to put RoadHolder badges on them.
