Thinking of Going to a 22T Gearbox Sprocket

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Why do most (not everyone) seem so obsessed with acceleration from a dead stop? Seems like a typical American emphasis on straight line drag racing performance. What if you are riding on a twisty road that allows speeds in the 90-105 MPH range? With a 20t sprocket you would be over revving in 3rd gear while a 22t would allow you to pull between 6000 and 7000 RPM.

No single FDR is going to be ideal in all situations.
 
As I seem to be the only one left awake here Dan (sorry, Brit humour). I'll at least endorse your last point:

'No single FDR is going to be ideal in all situations.'

Though the line: 'What if you are riding on a twisty road that allows speeds in the 90-105 MPH range? With a 20t sprocket you would be over revving in 3rd gear' beggars the question: Why not change up into fourth?
Those conditions don't (sensibly) exist in the UK outside of track days...
 
EstuaryBoy said:
As I seem to be the only one left awake here Dan (sorry, Brit humour). I'll at least endorse your last point:

'No single FDR is going to be ideal in all situations.'

Though the line: 'What if you are riding on a twisty road that allows speeds in the 90-105 MPH range? With a 20t sprocket you would be over revving in 3rd gear' beggars the question: Why not change up into fourth?
Those conditions don't (sensibly) exist in the UK outside of track days...
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You didn't know me in my mid 30s. I would sometimes wring my Panhead stroker out to 130+ MPH. Had it float the front wheel like a dirt bike over hill crests at 110+ MPH That was in the really fat part of the power band in 4th gear,
 
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EstuaryBoy said:
Though the line: 'What if you are riding on a twisty road that allows speeds in the 90-105 MPH range? With a 20t sprocket you would be over revving in 3rd gear' beggars the question: Why not change up into fourth?
Those conditions don't (sensibly) exist in the UK outside of track days...
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But then you would be at a disadvantage in FDR over the 22t in 3rd gear.
 
Dan..... we're getting into 'how long is a piece of string?' territory here. If you think 22t is the way forward for you, in your predicted circumstances, then go for it...
They can always be changed back again.
I personally run 20t with a 19" wheel, rarely see three figure speeds (though it will if asked), but can stay with UK motorway traffic without feeling strained or compromised, but equally at home at speeds of 20-30mph negotiating narrow back lanes (keeping an eye out for horses, tractors etc..) without it feeling like it'll shake itself apart..
Though not both in the same gear!
Thing is: Two wheels or four, I don't mind coming second now.... As long as I arrive in style with clean underpants and a clean driving license, I'm happy :)
 
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You know, I got the impression that the 21t sprocket was a bit short geared for my taste but maybe when I get the bike sorted I might change my mind. Definitely don't see going to a 20t but 21t is in the middle so maybe I'll just give it a try. I can change out the sprocket as a morning project if I decide to go 22t.
 
Dan1950 said:
On the contrary, I know it may be hard for you to grasp but not everyone that responded here has the same opinion as you. You don't seem to be able to accept anyone's opinion that doesn't agree with yours.
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Oops
 
As mentioned, it's the OVERALL FINAL DRIVE RATIO.
That, (unless using the AMAZING CVT like snowmobiles have had 60+ years, Rokon bikes too) is a compromise of shifting, above & below power peaks. And, because the torquey Commando engine in the lightweight chassis makes for a FUN RIDE. Much the same way an unloaded truck like a Dodge 3/4 ton with a Cummins Diesel is a hoot to drive. 3.73, 4.10, 4.56 final ration is of little consequence (again, when EMPTY LOAD)
 
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