Swingarm Oiling and other Notes

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I've got my '74 Commando rear end apart to add adjustable (so-called Vernier) isolastics and the additional two collar support modification for the spindle. I thought it worth a note that, having read all the posts on swingarm oiling problems and worrying about my stock set-up, it is functioning very well using the simple old method: I bought a cheap, one-handed grease gun (about $10), tossed the grease cartridge into the tractor toolbox, and inserted a small plastic cap into the top of the gun, to hold a small quantity of #140 oil at the top of the gun where the outlet is. About every two weeks, I pumped the 140 oil into the swingarm (I put about 4,000 miles on it this past season) through the nipple. When I disassemlbed everything last weekend, I note that there is a really good lubrication going on. I built the bike from a basket case 2 years ago and at that time put in new swingarm bushings and of course replaced the O-rings. I didn't change the spindle. They're all as good as new today, I am happy to report. All this to say, the "old method" of oiling does work just fine. There's a little leakage overnight when you pump it in, but it's minimal and in some ways comforting to see the small amount of drip, letting you know your O-rings are doing their job holding in almost all of the oil. I don't expect perfection with the little bit of tension the small rod allows you to place on those O-rings

The other notes: This past summer, knowing now the bike is reliable (and wonderful; it's so good to have a bike I am passionate about) after 1 1/2 seasons, I bit the bullett and added in a Landsdowne front supsension kit, Dave Taylor head steady and Ikon shocks. Each of these added real value. Together they make it as close to a modern motorcyle as you can get. It tracks straight and rides well. Hopefully with the mods mentioned above this winter, I'll have finished the essential stuff and spend more time just riding (and maybe rationalize a little stainless here and there?).

Hope this note has some value....
 
Yes sir the ole traditions factory method of oil pump is how i did my spindle lube too, till got tired of the drool and went the greaser mod route. After seeing a few spindles rusted yet still lubed on bottom I think the main reason to keep topping off is to prevent rust decay more than friction wear. The spindle collars are in gritty conditions so might think about protecting them from rust by paint or such - before you discover your almost sealed spindle ain't protecting them enough.
 
Quebec Bob said:
...it is functioning very well using the simple old method: I bought a cheap, one-handed grease gun (about $10), tossed the grease cartridge into the tractor toolbox, and inserted a small plastic cap into the top of the gun, to hold a small quantity of #140 oil at the top of the gun where the outlet is. About every two weeks, I pumped the 140 oil into the swingarm (I put about 4,000 miles on it this past season) through the nipple. When I disassemlbed everything last weekend, I note that there is a really good lubrication going on. I built the bike from a basket case 2 years ago and at that time put in new swingarm bushings and of course replaced the O-rings. I didn't change the spindle. They're all as good as new today, I am happy to report. All this to say, the "old method" of oiling does work just fine.

Doing this too. Still working on my first gallon of 140 weight bought in 1972 for this purpose.

Russ
 
Quebec Bob said:
About every two weeks, I pumped the 140 oil into the swingarm (I put about 4,000 miles on it this past season) through the nipple.

Oiling once or twice during that period would probably have been enough.
 
The grease gun/140 wt oil works great - just be careful that you don't do it too quickly. As I noted in another thread, I blew the end caps off/stripped the threads on that long skinny screw using a grease gun/oil. I do it more gently now. :)
 
It has been 2 years since I rebuilt the swing arm. I pulled the spindle to inspect, put in some fresh oring, all set for a couple more years.

Two mishaps that turn out to be lucky. When putting in the 1/4-28 center screw, I felt it not tightening just in time. I took it out and you could see that a quarter more of a turn and it would have broken at the head.
The other luck mishap is the long center screw. I broke right at the head so I was luckly able to take the rest of it out with a needle nose.
Both these could have been a labor intensive issue, but I was lucky if you can call it that. An honorable member is donating a long screw and $.30 from Ace got me a nice spec 8 to thread into the spindle center.

All is well.
 
Do you mind explaining the greaser mod?

Oil pump into side zerk is way it was intended to be filled but as zerk looks like grease zerk, grease was pumped in instead of oil but spindle hole not big enough to let grease to matter into the bush space so got run w/o lube till rusted and worn lips that can trap the spindle and ruin swing arm by brutal methods, cutting torch and 30 ton press with cradle very well supported or just folds up with spindle still inside.

Couple ways to go greaser, one drill tap zerks on each side through to bushes and plug the spindle oil holes, two drill out the spindle holes DS a bit bigger than TS and put grease in the end cover zerk. First method puts chain side bottom zerk at risk if chain gets too slack so better the second way. Mine has unscrewed to drop out but accepted another zerk just fine and stayed put, till grit wore rings out and blow by leaked oil on too dry plain chain that made grinding paste to go slack on one ride which then snagged the 2nd zerk out, ugh. If I had kept the constant loss factory chain oiler chain would of lasted til I checked slack now and then. But stupid me thought the mess was too messy to keep factory wisdom functional.
 
For it,s worth, I own a 76 MK3 and was concerned about the oil wicks in the swing arm drying up with oil. What I did is drilled a very small hole through the outer metal cup and used a needle syringe that I used to give my dogs a vaccination and filled it with oil and inserted it through the drilled hole and into the oil wicks to relube the swing arm. Worked very well. All you have to do is put a little silicon over the drilled hole for further lubracation. Later hershey
 
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