Swing arm modifications

Getting ready to service my swing arm and was thinking I would do some upgrades. Been searching and have found a lot of info scattered through several threads. Figured this would be a good opportunity to put all that info on one thread. So... if y'all don't mind, what have you done to your swing arms to improve performance, reliability, and serviceability?

Whatever you do, don't mention the needle bearing conversion. All hell will break loose. The stock bushings work well as long as the proper lubricant is used, oil not grease. Make sure the spindle is tight in the cradle, and the double clamp mod is a nice upgrade.

I've seen the clamp set up on another post. Is there info on sourcing these or tech info so I can fab my own. What about bracing or gusseting? Is this necessary to prevent twisting?

caddy chris said:

I've seen the clamp set up on another post. Is there info on sourcing these or tech info so I can fab my own. What about bracing or gusseting? Is this necessary to prevent twisting?

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By the time you buy and machine the clamps it's better just to buy them from windy.

Get cradle clamps, put in grease zerks for real greaser on bushes nil maitainance long lasting non drooling slick operation and maybe the braced 850 version. Tricky to weld on 750 one w/o distorting but dobable. Grease warning is the side plate zerk looks like grease zert but only might to pump oil in as grease can't get through the tiny spindle holes to get to bushes. Tiny holes are to limit how soon the factory total lost system dries out. Plug em if going greaser. I put in oil sight tube reservoir to watch how fast the level dropped to clean up, never again thank you. Also worth scribing adjustment marks if you like but easier to just align rear to center in front of swingarm, done.

You can gusset by taking some rectangular tubing and cutting the section into triangles and welding them in to form a "V" at the front of the swing arm, I might have a photo of this somewhere...this allows plenty of room for the tire. Unless you're planning on a huge rear tire. I run the Avon Roadrider 100/90 without a hint of any clearance issues.

Needle bearing conversion...I've done this on a few bikes...it works. My personal bike has been running this conversion for 6+ years (1000's of miles) without a problem.

If your swing arm is off the bike, instead of the clamps, you can achieve the same result by welding nuts to the swing arm to accept bolts to pin the spindle. You do this by drilling and tapping two holes, use bolts of the appropriate length, then thread a nut on each bolt, thread the bolts into the holes, lock into position with the nuts, then weld the nuts to the swing arm. Now when you go to install the swing arm, put another nut on each bolt...install the swing arm as usual, pin the spindle by tightening the bolts, then tighten the nuts down against the nuts that are welded to the swing arm to keep the bolt locked in. Easy. For a super clean look instead of welding nuts on, you could have a pair of threaded bosses made up, radius the back side so they fit flush on the tube, then weld them in.

Additionally, if you want, you can drill and tap the spindle to accept the two bolts...I suggest grinding then machining out a two flat spots on the spindle before attempting this, the surface of the spindle is harder than woodpecker lips, so it is unlikely that you're going to drill straight into it.

hobot said:

Get cradle clamps, put in grease zerks for real grease on bushes

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If you do the Needle-bearing-conversion then grease is needed but I think grease will plug the holes in the stock bushings (which work beautifully in my opinion) 140W OIL ONLY!! if you run Sintered Bronze bushings.

Vince

Vince, to be a real greaser required plugging the spindle holes and drilling zerks into each bush side, not just pumping grease in factory set up, a known taboo. I like to hear about hi end conversion success, just over kill for my mild needs and lazy ways.

I think Steve's idea would work, however, if I were to do it I'd make lead bronze bushes with grease grooves. I'd block up the primary side of the spindle and fit a thread adapter to suit a grease nipple to the other end. Them just pump until the grease squirts out. But I won't because the oiled system works quite well and these days I'm too damn lazy.

Cash

Excellent. Good link. I can probably get the pipe collars locally and modify them myself. If I was to go with the grease / zerk fitting mod, is there enough gap between the bushes and spindle to allow the grease to work?

No.

Vince

Thanks Vince, didn't think so. Not to shoot anyone down, but I just bought two 1" split shaft collars for $8. All i have to do is drill and tap.and im good. Now that brings up another issue. My new spindle collars are going to allow the oil to leak out? Maybe a little sillycone will.take care of that. Will find out.

While I.was shopping in hardware heaven, I spotted some heim joints and got to thinking about panharding the cradle to.the frame below the oil filter. What is the smallest I can get away with? Its not a lot of load, so would 3/8" set up be ok? 1/4" seem to small.

I got a bunch of 3/8 rod ends. They seem to be the minimum size.

I don't think so, this place had some tiny little guys. 10-32 I think. All the way up to 1-1/2". Tractor and ag supply store. Its like heaven in there. They have just about everything you can imagine. Full wall of bearings and bushings, welding supplies, fasteners, chain and gears. 530 chain. 10' for like $20. Walking in there is like popping a viagra. They are bike guys too. Flat trackers and MX. They all came out and checked the bike out. Left the.customers at the counter!

After that I went by the Sage bro's secret shop, and hung out for a bit. Boy do those guys have some stuff! Terry is restoring his beezer that he raced back on the day. So cool, still has all the O.G. race parts. They are the NICEST GUYS! They offered me a sandwitch and a gatorade and Terry offered to weld up my busted pinch bolt. FOR A CASE OF GATORADE!

Good day!

I.was.afraid of that! I'll exchange them. Thanks!

Oh, and file or mill a flat before you drill and tap the hole in the collar. You need something for the jamb nut to seat.

Ron L said:

Oh, and file or mill a flat before you drill and tap the hole in the collar. You need something for the jamb nut to seat.

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Or you could just locktite it.

Went back to exchange the collars. They don't have 1-1/8", so i'll ream to fit. I have a 10" surfacer, so I'll use it to make a flat. Drill tap.and locktight. Also got 1/4-28 male and female rod ends, two tall nuts bolts jam nuts and another collar to build a mini panhard for the rear. I figure ill go from the timing side frame to the same side cradle and not block the oil filter. Im going to weld one long nut to the collar and the other to a 3/8" price of steel that will bolt to the cradle at the vacant center stand hole the setup will be about 3-1/2 - 4" long. Vertical movement is minimal, so I figure a short rod will be acceptable and 1/4" should hold up. Total cash spent so far is $30. The rod ends being the most expensive at about $7 each. I wish I could post pix from my phone. Should be a neat little setup.

Oh, and yes, they do have 10-32 ends. Left and right thread. Male and female.