Static Time a Boyer Analog w/ a Test Light

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Deets55

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I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to static time a Boyer Analog with a battery powered test light or a continuity tester. I was thinking that if you disconnect the leads going to to pick and hook up a test light or continuity tester at that point it should be possible to see when the magnets cross the pickup coils. This way when I rotate the engine while watching the timing scale or degree wheel I can set the timing more accurately, similar to a Tri-spark. Using this method I guess 30* BTDC is a good starting point?
My concern is that I am installing a new cam and I want to be able to fire up the engine (hopefully) and break in the cam with out worrying about the timing, then later I will go back with a strobe.
If that is not possible I guess I try for about 10* BTDC with a strobe at 2,000 rpm for a Boyer Analog?

Pete
 
The reference hole in the plate will get you close enough to run well if your eye is any good at all. 8)
 
concours said:
The reference hole in the plate will get you close enough to run well if your eye is any good at all. 8)


HOLE? What hole?
Just kidding. I think the last time I did it that way it came in @ 33*BTDC before I put a strobe on it. Since everything is apart I will use a degree wheel on it and check all my timing marks @ TDC and 28* this time.
 
Unfortunately the timing does not happen when the magnets line up with the pick up pole. Also the magnetic strength affects this/the -.6 volt crossing. The components in the box also vary and therefore affect the trigger point.
Set it up by the book except put the rotor a bit more cw rather than centered in the hole. you should then be closer to 28deg. then lock the rotor down.
 
Dave,
Thanks for the info. I just got home and tested my idea. Apparently the trigger works on reluctance or induction or some kind of other magic so it doesn't show up as continuity or a change in resistance on a meter. I'll take your advice on a slight cw adjustment.

Pete
 
After running a Boyer ignition for over 30 years I have never used a strobe light, I set the pick up as the book tells you using the static timing hole, once set up to start I kick it over usualy it will fire straight up on the first kick, you will soon know if its to far advanced by kick back and if retared its usualy harder to start, I advance it to get kick back then retared it just by a wisker hair at a time till it kicks over smoothly and starting on half a kick swing, setting a Boyer by the static hole is pretty close to being timed right, Boyer's are a very simple and reliable, they do have their little problems that are nomaly easy to fix,usualy broken pick up wires although I never had any problems at all, but you also have to have your carbies set right, there is a lot more to having your bike running right than just timing.
If you got to advance or retared your timing just move the ajust plate slightly at a time as you don't need to move much to make a whole lot of diffrents in the timing.

Ashley
 
Deets55 said:
Dave,
Thanks for the info. I just got home and tested my idea. Apparently the trigger works on reluctance or induction or some kind of other magic so it doesn't show up as continuity or a change in resistance on a meter. I'll take your advice on a slight cw adjustment.

Pete

Its operation is here as written in 1989 it was published in 1991 in the INOA news. Circuit operation verified in the mid-90's by Ernie Bransden and the in house engineer (IIRC now runs Pazon). The physics of magnetic field "bunching" at the poles of the 2 coils is not described, but few would understand it anyway. Electronic and electromagnetic consistancy is a problem that was solved by ignoring the low speed characteristics in favor of a "timing light" adjust which favors highway running RPMs over idle and starting. Comercially a great success for it's day, but only a "B-" grade for a college engineering project.

Read here: http://atlanticgreen.com/boyerexposed.htm
followed up here in 2001: http://atlanticgreen.com/boyerevolved.htm
 
The basic principle of the Boyer system was explained to me many years ago by Ernie Bransden who put it into layman's terms for me. ( Because I'm a layman).

The magnets spin past the pick up coils and act just like an alternator, generating a current in the pick up coils. When the voltage in the pick up coils reaches a certain level, this is detected by the black box and it fires the spark.

As the motor revs faster, the required voltage is reached quicker so the spark happens earlier thus creating an advance curve.

It is a little more complicated than that, but it's a good way for us laymen to understand what happens in the magic black box.

I've heard many stories that are critical of Boyer ignitions, but I'll just say this:

1) Ernie Bransden bothered to come to the phone to explain it to some guy who called with a technical question.

2) I built my Norton race bike around 1983 and it still has the same Boyer black box 33 years later ( I changed the stator plate about ten years ago).
 
Dave and Pommie John,

Thanks for the additional information, it was and interesting read.

Pete
 
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