stainless steel stuff..

Hi to all,
I am trying to itemize all the plates, bolts, fasteners, nuts, adjust for rear chain, axles and so on which could be changed in stainless steel for aesthetic reasons and I'm going crazy.. :shock:
of course, I know I should be carefull to not change everything because there's no reason, but I was wondering if anyone of you who already worked this out to share his list and perhaps also where to buy!
BTW, my norton is a roadster 750 year 1973..
thank you! :wink:

I have an Excel spread sheet with nearly all the nuts and bolts on my 69 'S'. If it would be any help to you, I'd be glad to send it to you, but I know a lot of things changed in 71 and there are some items that will not pertain. There may be a few errors too, but most of the items are listed UNF/ BSW etc. It might give you a place to start.

I found RGM to be a most reasonable place to buy the items, even here in the US.

It can become very expensive. I opted to plate a lot of the BSW and CEI items that are visible.

Dave
69S

You might check out the lists at Rocky Point Cycle.

http://rockypointcycle.com/

Rocky Point is owned by a member of the forum (Roadscholar) and I believe a discount is available for members.

See this post:

post101500.html?hilit=rocky point#p101500

Russ

DogT said:

I have an Excel spread sheet with nearly all the nuts and bolts on my 69 'S'. If it would be any help to you, I'd be glad to send it to you, but I know a lot of things changed in 71 and there are some items that will not pertain. There may be a few errors too, but most of the items are listed UNF/ BSW etc. It might give you a place to start.

I found RGM to be a most reasonable place to buy the items, even here in the US.

It can become very expensive. I opted to plate a lot of the BSW and CEI items that are visible.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

thank you Dave: your excell may be anyway useful (lorenzo.imbesi@gmail.com)
also, it would be great to have a suggestion on a strategy to follow: as I am not doing a 'radical' restauration, I am interested to knowing what could be good to 'touch' and what better to keep in order to preserve the originality or what anyway is hidden away (or what has a 'structural' role)
thank you!

I suggest that individuals new to ss fasteners start by replacing the fasteners that have rounded edges or are visibly rusting and go from there. Rocky Point's offerings address a balanced approach to attaching parts/assemblies to your motorcycle; fasteners are also available individually by size and thread pitch, contact me via phone (978-212-5432) or e-mail (sales@rockypointcycle.com) for specifics.

My inventory is probably at 95% of the website and building; I am happy to offer forum members a 5% discount, but please e-mail me, as above, to insure I make the connection; I usually ship the same day the order is received if before noon, national and international.

Bill.

RoadScholar said:

I suggest that individuals new to ss fasteners start by replacing the fasteners that have rounded edges or are visibly rusting and go from there. Rocky Point's offerings address a balanced approach to attaching parts/assemblies to your motorcycle; fasteners are also available individually by size and thread pitch, contact me via phone (978-212-5432) or e-mail (sales@rockypointcycle.com) for specifics.

My inventory is probably at 95% of the website and building; I am happy to offer forum members a 5% discount, but please e-mail me, as above, to insure I make the connection; I usually ship the same day the order is received if before noon, national and international.

Bill.

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thank you Bill: I will send you an email soon..

IMHO and FWIW and just an FWI Never use SS hardware in alloys without anti sneeze grease. Never over tighten just because it's SS. If using a SS bolt in alloys like head, crankcase or gearbox validate that the torque spec don't change do to the difference in material. I would not use SS on critical items like head nuts and bolts, base nuts and bolts or other torque critical items. Covers, exhaust brackets and when screwing a SS bolt into a SS nut, like the header to muffler clamp, I think would be fine.
There are too many horror stories of SS bolts going in but not coming out.

pvisseriii said:

IMHO and FWIW and just an FWI Never use SS hardware in alloys without anti sneeze grease. Never over tighten just because it's SS. If using a SS bolt in alloys like head, crankcase or gearbox validate that the torque spec don't change do to the difference in material. I would not use SS on critical items like head nuts and bolts, base nuts and bolts or other torque critical items. Covers, exhaust brackets and when screwing a SS bolt into a SS nut, like the header to muffler clamp, I think would be fine.
There are too many horror stories of SS bolts going in but not coming out.

Click to expand...

thank you! this was quite useful.. :wink:
btw, I'm a real beginner and perhaps new to many acronyms :shock: : what do you mean by:
IMHO
FWIW
FWI
?

please.. don't take joke on me :lol:

There are only A FEW items that SS is better and not seen, master cylinder piston and calpier pucks.
Next might be the drive chain adjusters and bar switch screws. I'm using steel chromed dome nuts for Peel's isolastic bolts. Fork Cap bolts are nice in SS but I prefer polished lighter Al ones.

Lorenzo said:

pvisseriii said:

IMHO and FWIW and just an FWI Never use SS hardware in alloys without anti sneeze grease. Never over tighten just because it's SS. If using a SS bolt in alloys like head, crankcase or gearbox validate that the torque spec don't change do to the difference in material. I would not use SS on critical items like head nuts and bolts, base nuts and bolts or other torque critical items. Covers, exhaust brackets and when screwing a SS bolt into a SS nut, like the header to muffler clamp, I think would be fine.
There are too many horror stories of SS bolts going in but not coming out.

Click to expand...

thank you! this was quite useful.. :wink:
btw, I'm a real beginner and perhaps new to many acronyms :shock: : what do you mean by:
IMHO
FWIW
FWI
?

please.. don't take joke on me :lol:

Click to expand...

"In My Honest Opinoin" "For What It's Worth" and "For Your Information" II meant to say FYI.

It is true that SS and alloy react together, particularly in marine environments. Use your choice of goo to keep the threads from galling and sticking in the alloy. When I was going through my 750 I followed the path of the advice above of replacing stuff that was starting to rust. Also I have a hatred of slotted screws in places like timing covers and the allen heads are a great improvement there IMHO (in my honest opinion). If you are going to assemble the bike and not touch any of the fasteners for a long while the SS to alloy interface is more of a problem. FWIW (for what its worth) when I am doing a check on the bike I often check the fasteners and back them out a quarter turn and then snug them back up. This seems to prevent any problem. I particularly liked getting rid of the stock screws in the switch clusters. I have been working on putting stainless into places like fender braces, muffler mounts, Z plates, etc as I work on them.

FYI (for your information) I use thread eze ultra which is basically a lanolin paste good to 1200 C on my bolts and highly recommend it. Some use anti-seaze others use silicone (a little dab will do ya). OMC makes a grease for their outboards that is supposed to be really good for this application but I have not tried it.

I agree completely on not using SS in torque critical areas.

Russ

I use thread eze ultra which is basically a lanolin paste good to 1200 C

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lanolin and 1200 C in the same sentence got my attention! Lanolin is the fat from the wool of a sheep and has a flash point of 209 C. Thread-EZE Ultra indeed is warranted to survive 1200 C, but from the MSDS it appears to be a paste of aluminum flake, non-asbestiform mica and bentonite. These last two are naturally occuring minerals that have a have a very waxy feel.

Anyway, although I have not yet tried this stuff it does sound like an excellent hi-temperature anti-seize paste. Where can you buy some of it?

Ron L said:

I use thread eze ultra which is basically a lanolin paste good to 1200 C

Click to expand...

lanolin and 1200 C in the same sentence got my attention! Lanolin is the fat from the wool of a sheep and has a flash point of 209 C. Thread-EZE Ultra indeed is warranted to survive 1200 C, but from the MSDS it appears to be a paste of aluminum flake, non-asbestiform mica and bentonite. These last two are naturally occuring minerals that have a have a very waxy feel.

Anyway, although I have not yet tried this stuff it does sound like an excellent hi-temperature anti-seize paste. Where can you buy some of it?

Click to expand...

Sorry Ron,
You are right,I should have said lanolin-like. As it describes better how the stuff looks and feels than calling it grease or anti-seize. Sadly the only way I know to buy it is by the case from Chemsearch. It comes in 16 ounce bottles and a case of 6 is 171.50 USD. A case of 12 is 299.50. I got mine from the engineer on a ship that I was working with. I would be happy to split a box of 6 with somebody as that would probably be a lifetime supply.

Russ

pvisseriii said:

IMHO and FWIW and just an FWI Never use SS hardware in alloys without anti sneeze grease. Never over tighten just because it's SS. If using a SS bolt in alloys like head, crankcase or gearbox validate that the torque spec don't change do to the difference in material. I would not use SS on critical items like head nuts and bolts, base nuts and bolts or other torque critical items. Covers, exhaust brackets and when screwing a SS bolt into a SS nut, like the header to muffler clamp, I think would be fine.
There are too many horror stories of SS bolts going in but not coming out.

Click to expand...

thank you for the advises: do you think that using stainless steel for the Rocker Spindle plates and bolts would be critical?

Lorenzo said:

pvisseriii said:

IMHO and FWIW and just an FWI Never use SS hardware in alloys without anti sneeze grease. Never over tighten just because it's SS. If using a SS bolt in alloys like head, crankcase or gearbox validate that the torque spec don't change do to the difference in material. I would not use SS on critical items like head nuts and bolts, base nuts and bolts or other torque critical items. Covers, exhaust brackets and when screwing a SS bolt into a SS nut, like the header to muffler clamp, I think would be fine.
There are too many horror stories of SS bolts going in but not coming out.

Click to expand...

thank you for the advises: do you think that using stainless steel for the Rocker Spindle plates and bolts would be critical?

Click to expand...

No,but be cautious of the threads just the same.

You can realy clean up the look of your rear "drum brake" wheel with SS brake cable adjuster, chain adjuster and that flat plate that the axle goes through on the left side. I forget what it's called. I did end up using both front & rear SS axles but not SS for the stub axle, left side rear wheel. Definatly use anti sieze on all SS. I know a lot of people say SS is bad for axles. Mine came from Middelton in England, he seems to think they are safe. I don't know but my old ones were shot & I bought SS ones before I knew about the contreversy about them. Time will tell. Glenn.