Spray tube fell down?

I was having some rough running just off idle through to 1/4 throttle.
The right side, Timing side carb was struggling and running rough.
Opened up Amal 932 to find the spray tube had dropped down and came out on top of the jet when I removed the main jet holder.
Tube was reseting comfortably on top of the 106 jet.
Explains the rough running.
How do I reinsert permenately?
I was thinking some Loctite red bearing locker and pressing it home?
Is this correct?
The left side I checked is still in place but is loose.
I'll probably address this one as well before I have the same problem.
This is the straight type combat spray tube w/o cutaway.
Thanks,
Marshal

Hope someone tells ya the best way as I've found all spray tubes in hand full of Amals were finger easy to move stone cold. Once placed right never needs further attention nor wear out so I'll epoxy mine next if mild friction fit fails like yours.
Spray tubes installed height can vary 10-15%, Amal tests reports stated this does not effect mixture feeding. I still like to set them pretty equal in my duals. Also as so easy to remove-replace I'm going to experiment with notch or sloped top for more low speed low throttle response.

hobot

Hobot,
thanks for the speedy response.
What do you recommend for an epoxy?
I'll need something that resists fuel/heat.
I was going to use the red loctite.
Do you recommend against using this?
I want to do it once and be done.
Thanks,
Marshal

JB Weld has been around a long time and has proven itself in many different applications. Often used as a "temporary" repair for some serious issues involving engines and transmissions, it frequently ends up being the permanent repair.

Seems to me epoxy would change the profile of the air stream. I'd opt for green Loctite, made for tight fitting assemblies.

I don't think I have a spray tube. There is nothing above the needle jet except the slide and needle. Thought that was a later development used on 850s? What do they look like?

JB Weld is gas (petrol) proof for sure. Loctite doesn't like heat.

Hey Russ,
It looks like a brass tube 1/4" long maybe w/ a knurled base ring.
Just like the ferrules guitar strings run through on the wood body of fender guitars.
The ring appears to be the friction point inside the alloy carb body.
It is inserted from under neath and friction fitted according to Hobot.
I guess it vibrated out and then fell down and was captured by the 106 jet ?
These are 932's w/ a L and R on the side and a number 26 cast into the body.
They have a .025 brass pilot jet screwed into the bottom of the body at the fuel idle circuitry orifice
as well which I found odd as I thought that was only used on the 2 strokers?
The JB Weld Mike suggested is a puddy style adhesive. I don't think I'll have the clearance to use this?
I was thinking I need a razor thin coat of adhesion like a loctite product.
Dave suggested the green loctite.
Again, it will have to last through fuel spray and heat.
I need some more adhesion sugestions?
Thanks,
Marshal

High temp silicone might be a good choice here. It isn't my typical rec, but I have used it in a number of carb situations and it holds up to the gas just fine. It is messy to use but you can clean the excess off with q-tips and mineral spirits. I assume the knurled part of the spray tube would allow enough goop to stay in the interface to give it a chance to work. It would be a lot easier to clean off than JB Weld if you didnt like the result.

Russ

Thanks Russ,
Yeah, I'm shying away from JB Weld for this close tolerance application.
I saw on Lund Machine Co. site, he uses loctite 620 to hold the sleeves on slides and they have held up well.
I'm thinking why can't I use same on the spray tube?
They're both subject to the same amount of fuel and heat
I may have to give Andy a call later today and see if he is in agreement.
Thanks,
Marshal

Ah ha I see what it is now. Nice link on the Burlen site: http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=11

I never had one come out. I seem to have accumulated a few sets of 932 carbs around so will have to dig them out and view them.

The JB Weld is a bit thick but very sticky so it wouldn't take but a smear. Bruce Chessell is on this board and I think he may use loctite on his sleeves also. Good thing it goes in from underneath - would hate to have one inhaled by the engine.

JBWeld would work as it does to fix us county boys gas tank hole in cars and bikes, steel and fiberglass permanently. Would just take a dab of any not gas soluble adhesive to retain a wimpy spray tube. Just because a seasoned Nortoneer has never encountered this, we got an example here of it to add to check list of Cdo sleuthing. Likely could just tap tube base a tad out of round and roughen its rim for it to stay put functioning fine. Maybe a drop of solder?
i was told adding a cut-notch to spray tube gave accelerator pump response. Ain't tried it yet but on mind but hope someone else beats me too it, hint hint>>

hobot

Loctite 620 is the green stuff, good for up to 200 deg C. Made specifically for close fitting cylindrical assemblies. Just the ticket for this application.

Used permatex high temp locker
Set up is 24 hours.
holding real well.
The press in press fit quit :roll:
Now set for good.
Product good till 300 degrees and heat needed to remove.
Not planning to take out so not an issue.
Hope fuel doesn't weaken we will see.
Marshal